cancel
Showing results forย 
Search instead forย 
Did you mean:ย 

Diesel Fuel Additive During Winter Storage

janstey58
Explorer
Explorer
Hi All, This is my first year of storing our 2015 Discovery 40E DP with a full tank of diesel fuel in the Midwest. What do you seasoned DP owners do in this situation in regard to fuel additives, especially for anti-algae protection? I found some info on-line that Cummins states additives are not needed and it may void an active warranty if used. I have also heard horror stories from one owner about algae problems causing big $$$ repairs. Comments? Thx, Jeff
Jeff and Kim
2015 Fleetwood Discovery 40E
Freightliner Chassis 380HP DP
2012 Ford Escape Limited Toad
34 REPLIES 34

jplante4
Explorer II
Explorer II
SidecarFlip wrote:
down home wrote:
I use the CAT brand biocide additive when I can get it.
I use another brand, that I don't remember the name of from a local diesel shop.
They are both about 32-39.00 bottle of 32 oz. One oz per ten gallons, I think but don't quote me.
It is a terrific idea, today, when there is no sulfur, to amount to anything in diesel. If you use BioDiesel it is absolutely a necessity. Basically cooking oil the microbes really like it with a bit of moisture or not.
Power Service etc I cannot see anything in the ingredients about any real biocide in it. I look anytime we stop for a bit for what they have on the shelves of Loves, or Fyin J etc. Nothing worth my money.
EPA doesn't want us using it.


Power Service diesel additive is a Cetane improver only. If it was a biocide or contained any chemical lethal to microbes in fuel, it would have to be labelled as such and it's not.

I have used the CAT biocide before but it's hard to get whereas the Power Kleen is readily available.

I also use the CAT fuel additive when I can find it. It's hard to find as well.

One look on the back label tells you right away if it is indeed a biocide. It will have all sorts of warnings about disposal of the empty container, inhalation hazards and all that stuff the government requires,,,


That link I provided shows 5 Power Service products, and a biocide is one of them.
Jerry & Jeanne
1996 Safari Sahara 3530 - 'White Tiger'
CAT 3126/Allison 6 speed/Magnum Chassis
2014 Equinox AWD / Blue Ox

wvabeer
Explorer
Explorer
I'll just hope for natural convection, I can't shake it as its on it's levers. I can't start it, the batteries are removed. I cannot think of a way to agitate it.
1999 Dutch Star DP3884
2015 Camplite 6.8C
2012 Cherokee 39L destination
2022 F350 XL 4x4
07 FLHRS

SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Explorer III
down home wrote:
I use the CAT brand biocide additive when I can get it.
I use another brand, that I don't remember the name of from a local diesel shop.
They are both about 32-39.00 bottle of 32 oz. One oz per ten gallons, I think but don't quote me.
It is a terrific idea, today, when there is no sulfur, to amount to anything in diesel. If you use BioDiesel it is absolutely a necessity. Basically cooking oil the microbes really like it with a bit of moisture or not.
Power Service etc I cannot see anything in the ingredients about any real biocide in it. I look anytime we stop for a bit for what they have on the shelves of Loves, or Fyin J etc. Nothing worth my money.
EPA doesn't want us using it.


Power Service diesel additive is a Cetane improver only. If it was a biocide or contained any chemical lethal to microbes in fuel, it would have to be labelled as such and it's not.

I have used the CAT biocide before but it's hard to get whereas the Power Kleen is readily available.

I also use the CAT fuel additive when I can find it. It's hard to find as well.

One look on the back label tells you right away if it is indeed a biocide. It will have all sorts of warnings about disposal of the empty container, inhalation hazards and all that stuff the government requires,,,
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

down_home
Explorer II
Explorer II
I use the CAT brand biocide additive when I can get it.
I use another brand, that I don't remember the name of from a local diesel shop.
They are both about 32-39.00 bottle of 32 oz. One oz per ten gallons, I think but don't quote me.
It is a terrific idea, today, when there is no sulfur, to amount to anything in diesel. If you use BioDiesel it is absolutely a necessity. Basically cooking oil the microbes really like it with a bit of moisture or not.
Power Service etc I cannot see anything in the ingredients about any real biocide in it. I look anytime we stop for a bit for what they have on the shelves of Loves, or Fyin J etc. Nothing worth my money.
EPA doesn't want us using it.

SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Explorer III
jplante4 wrote:
wvabeer wrote:
You have me talked into it. Mine was filled up at the end of October, batteries removed and covered. I'll add some biocide tomorrow.


You'll need to figure out a way to agitate it. I add my winter products at the last fillup and it's a 6 mile drive to storage.


I do like you Mr. Plante, I add prior to topping off the tanks but in theory, because all diesel engines return fuel from the injection system to the fuel tanks when running, you could add the biocide and idle the engine for say an hour or so and that would mix it in the fuel tanks and system.

It's always important to make sure your fuel tanks are as full as you can get them as well. That dead air space on the top of the tank inside can sweat and make moisture.

With the Power Kleen, there are two recommended dosages. There is the maintenance dose and the initial dose. I use the heavier of the 2 in the winter. Stuff stinks but I have had no issues since using it.

I see that Stabil is also offering a biocide now. (saw it at Tractor Supply). It's the same color as the Power Kleen and a bit cheaper (Power Kleen is about 30 bucks a pint over the counter, but I'll stick with the power Kleen because I know it works.

The problem with diesel is, if you buy it from say a local station, you have no idea how long it's been tanked there and the older it is, the more chance you have of growing algae. I try to buy my fuel at volume stations (like truck stops or the local elevator) where I know there is a big turnover.

....and stay away from B20 at all costs for an over winter in storage fuel. B20 is notorious for growing algae, even more so than regular ULSD.

I used to run B20 exclusively in my farm tractors, don't even do that anymore. It's more expensive and I can do without the 'french fry' smell.

Back in the old days before the government got into diesel fuel, there was never an algae issue. Not so today.

My words of wisdom and experience for today....:B
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

jplante4
Explorer II
Explorer II
wvabeer wrote:
You have me talked into it. Mine was filled up at the end of October, batteries removed and covered. I'll add some biocide tomorrow.


You'll need to figure out a way to agitate it. I add my winter products at the last fillup and it's a 6 mile drive to storage.
Jerry & Jeanne
1996 Safari Sahara 3530 - 'White Tiger'
CAT 3126/Allison 6 speed/Magnum Chassis
2014 Equinox AWD / Blue Ox

wvabeer
Explorer
Explorer
SidecarFlip wrote:
jplante4 wrote:
I put a bottle of Power Service injector cleaner in about every other tankful and one into the last tank. You need to drive it for a while to get the stuff into the injectors. On that last fillup I also use Power Service anti-gel. Probably not needed on Cape Cod but it's cheap insurance. Wal*Mart carries this. They also have a biocide, but if you keep the tank full you shouldn't need it.

Power Service


Not always true. Been there and did that and it's not a cheap date (repairing and replacing components and flushing tanks because of algae growing in the fuel over the winter.

While I don't have a diesel pusher, I do have a diesel pickup truck that sits all winter in the garage, next to my truck camper, usually from November to April every year and a couple diesel farm tractors too. I lucked out on the tractors, didn't on the truck.

I got a case of algae (red slime) in the fuel system over the winter 3 winters ago. I didn't know it until I got the truck out and it died in the driveway, I went hmmmm, what's going on, so I did all the usual checks (both fuel tanks were full and I had Power Service anti-gell in both tanks (I have 2 on the truck) so I pulled the fuel filter (my filter sits on a cast aluminum bowl atop the engine.

When I pulled the filter it was a solid mass of red, slimy gook and it stunk. So, I had to remove the fuel bowl (no easy job and clean it plus it ate the lift pump so I had to replace that and I had to pull all the injectors and have them cleaned and benched because the goo was in the injectors too. All in all, I had about a grand in parts with me doing the wrench part. If I had, had a shop do it, I imagine it would have been at least twice that because pulling the injectors on a Powerstroke is a job in itself. Besides the mechanical stuff, I had to drop both fuel tanks, remove the sending units and pickups and have them steam cleaned inside and I replaced both sending units and pickups because they too were loaded with the goo......and all new duel lines too..

Just glad I have the tools and the know how to do it myself...

Moral of the story is this:

Straight diesel with no biocide added, you might get lucky and never have an issue but, if you do, it's going to be a costly one for you.

Biocide is cheap and it don't take a lot. I Power Service Bio-Kleen myself....and a dash of Power Service anti gel too.

That is my story and I'm sticking to it....:B

Additionally, because I have a Powerstroke I also use Archoil Friction / Stiction modifier and their fuel additive (which has biocide in it) as well. I picked up a real world 1 mpg in fuel mileage overall and the motor runs much quieter.

While neither here nor there concerning algae, I figured I'd toss it in too, while I was entering this post.

Have fun.

You have me talked into it. Mine was filled up at the end of October, batteries removed and covered. I'll add some biocide tomorrow.
1999 Dutch Star DP3884
2015 Camplite 6.8C
2012 Cherokee 39L destination
2022 F350 XL 4x4
07 FLHRS

db7512
Explorer
Explorer
Cummins has approved Power Service products.
2016 Newmar Ventana
2016 Ford Edge

SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Explorer III
jplante4 wrote:
I put a bottle of Power Service injector cleaner in about every other tankful and one into the last tank. You need to drive it for a while to get the stuff into the injectors. On that last fillup I also use Power Service anti-gel. Probably not needed on Cape Cod but it's cheap insurance. Wal*Mart carries this. They also have a biocide, but if you keep the tank full you shouldn't need it.

Power Service


Not always true. Been there and did that and it's not a cheap date (repairing and replacing components and flushing tanks because of algae growing in the fuel over the winter.

While I don't have a diesel pusher, I do have a diesel pickup truck that sits all winter in the garage, next to my truck camper, usually from November to April every year and a couple diesel farm tractors too. I lucked out on the tractors, didn't on the truck.

I got a case of algae (red slime) in the fuel system over the winter 3 winters ago. I didn't know it until I got the truck out and it died in the driveway, I went hmmmm, what's going on, so I did all the usual checks (both fuel tanks were full and I had Power Service anti-gell in both tanks (I have 2 on the truck) so I pulled the fuel filter (my filter sits on a cast aluminum bowl atop the engine.

When I pulled the filter it was a solid mass of red, slimy gook and it stunk. So, I had to remove the fuel bowl (no easy job and clean it plus it ate the lift pump so I had to replace that and I had to pull all the injectors and have them cleaned and benched because the goo was in the injectors too. All in all, I had about a grand in parts with me doing the wrench part. If I had, had a shop do it, I imagine it would have been at least twice that because pulling the injectors on a Powerstroke is a job in itself. Besides the mechanical stuff, I had to drop both fuel tanks, remove the sending units and pickups and have them steam cleaned inside and I replaced both sending units and pickups because they too were loaded with the goo......and all new duel lines too..

Just glad I have the tools and the know how to do it myself...

Moral of the story is this:

Straight diesel with no biocide added, you might get lucky and never have an issue but, if you do, it's going to be a costly one for you.

Biocide is cheap and it don't take a lot. I Power Service Bio-Kleen myself....and a dash of Power Service anti gel too.

That is my story and I'm sticking to it....:B

Additionally, because I have a Powerstroke I also use Archoil Friction / Stiction modifier and their fuel additive (which has biocide in it) as well. I picked up a real world 1 mpg in fuel mileage overall and the motor runs much quieter.

While neither here nor there concerning algae, I figured I'd toss it in too, while I was entering this post.

Have fun.
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

wolfe10
Explorer
Explorer
Cummins's advice is just fine if you are driving it. It does not address storage.
Brett Wolfe
Ex: 2003 Alpine 38'FDDS
Ex: 1997 Safari 35'
Ex: 1993 Foretravel U240

Diesel RV Club:http://www.dieselrvclub.org/

wolfe10
Explorer
Explorer
Cummins's advice is just fine if you are driving it. It does not address storage.
Brett Wolfe
Ex: 2003 Alpine 38'FDDS
Ex: 1997 Safari 35'
Ex: 1993 Foretravel U240

Diesel RV Club:http://www.dieselrvclub.org/

janstey58
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks all, I did fill up with "winter blend" before storage, and with the cold temps it sounds to me like the algae issue is a non-issue. Cummins says no additives needed, and they built this engine, so going to stick with that.
Jeff and Kim
2015 Fleetwood Discovery 40E
Freightliner Chassis 380HP DP
2012 Ford Escape Limited Toad

wolfe10
Explorer
Explorer
If you filled before weather turned really cold, you need to add an ANTI-GEL. PS brand is sold in most Walmarts. That keeps #2 diesel from gelling. Fuel you buy right now where you live should already be "winter blend" and probably does not require an anti-gel.

Additionally, as others have suggested, use a BIOCIDE. Biobor JF is a common brand, and is even sold in Academy stores in our area.

Do not confuse either of these with injector cleaner or fuel stabilizer. I am not recommending against them, but many do not do the same things as mentioned above.
Brett Wolfe
Ex: 2003 Alpine 38'FDDS
Ex: 1997 Safari 35'
Ex: 1993 Foretravel U240

Diesel RV Club:http://www.dieselrvclub.org/

mowermech
Explorer
Explorer
Before adding any additive to any fuel, do a google search for the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for the stuff, to find out what is in it.
Many of them are Acetone, light petroleum distillate (diesel fuel), and Isopropyl alcohol (IPA).
Then do a search for "home brew diesel fuel additive". You can make your own for $5 per gallon or less!

I have read that algae can/will only grow at the water/fuel interface. If you have no water in your fuel tank, no algae can grow. I do not know if that is true or not, but it makes sense.
CM1, USN (RET)
2017 Jayco TT
Daily Driver: '14 Subaru Outback
1998 Dodge QC LWB, Cummins, 5 speed, 4X2
2 Kawasaki Brute Force 750 ATVs.
Pride Raptor 3 wheeled off-road capable mobility scooter
"When seconds count, help is only minutes away!"

Trackrig
Explorer II
Explorer II
Algae is a warm/hot weather problem - you're doing winter storage. For peace of mind dump a bottle of Power Service Bio Kleen into the tank. Order from Amazon.

Since you're putting additives in the tank get a bottle of Power Service Diesel Fuel Supplement also. It will help with any condensation in the tank. Amazon

Be sure to run both the engine and the generator so both products are in both fuel lines and engines.

Bill
Nodwell RN110 out moose hunting. 4-53 Detroit, Clark 5 spd, 40" wide tracks, 10:00x20 tires, 16,000# capacity, 22,000# weight. You know the mud is getting deep when it's coming in the doors.