Those are short pieces of welding rod. A wire coat hanger would serve the same purpose.
Costco installed rubber stems on the first set, so I wanted to ensure the hook style extender wouldn't cause issues, which is why I created & installed the wire clips.
When those Michelins were recalled, Costco installed new stems, but this time they were metal, but still with a rubber base. A much more substantial base, but still a rubber base. I re-installed the clips.
I've yet to look at the stems on the new Sunseeker, but from what I've read, the wheels are supposed to have all-metal stems. (with a gasket/o-ring, of course) I'll install the same type of extenders on the Sunseeker before the winter is out.
On the ford, I initially tightened the inner fitting with a tiny set of channel-locks on the ford rims - it was a major pain. Subsequently, I installed the extender after balances, before the wheels were re-installed on the rig. I learned that it was easier to remove & haul them to Costco in my pickup rather than have them deal with it.... parking lot with jacks, anyone?
I posted an article on the recall, but can't seem to find it at the moment. Here's some images:
Michelin Tire Recall
Costco installed rubber stems on the first set, so I wanted to ensure the hook style extender wouldn't cause issues, which is why I created & installed the wire clips.
When those Michelins were recalled, Costco installed new stems, but this time they were metal, but still with a rubber base. A much more substantial base, but still a rubber base. I re-installed the clips.
I've yet to look at the stems on the new Sunseeker, but from what I've read, the wheels are supposed to have all-metal stems. (with a gasket/o-ring, of course) I'll install the same type of extenders on the Sunseeker before the winter is out.
On the ford, I initially tightened the inner fitting with a tiny set of channel-locks on the ford rims - it was a major pain. Subsequently, I installed the extender after balances, before the wheels were re-installed on the rig. I learned that it was easier to remove & haul them to Costco in my pickup rather than have them deal with it.... parking lot with jacks, anyone?
I posted an article on the recall, but can't seem to find it at the moment. Here's some images:
Michelin Tire Recall
Nice to have the Tire Man solution, but not necessary. I used plastic extenders that came with our used MH until I got new tires. I asked Costco to put longer valve stems on the outers so I could reach them with my pressure gauge: 
No problem with the inners. No extensions needed. I actually put regular valve caps on to keep dirt out and use BruceMc's hose or tube tool to put them on and take them off the inners (link in his post above). I can reach the outers with my fingers.
Now I'm just worried about j-d's warning about plastic valve stems. Costco only has plastic ones. Tires cost way more elsewhere. But no problems in 7 years, except one time when I tried metal extenders and one failed to close after I checked pressures at a rest stop. I will start looking for metal valve stems for the next time I get new tires.
No problem with the inners. No extensions needed. I actually put regular valve caps on to keep dirt out and use BruceMc's hose or tube tool to put them on and take them off the inners (link in his post above). I can reach the outers with my fingers.
Now I'm just worried about j-d's warning about plastic valve stems. Costco only has plastic ones. Tires cost way more elsewhere. But no problems in 7 years, except one time when I tried metal extenders and one failed to close after I checked pressures at a rest stop. I will start looking for metal valve stems for the next time I get new tires.
Let me say again:
JUST GET SOMETHING THAT WON'T LET YOU DOWN!
OK - Here's a cheap fix:
Get Straight Metal Valve Stems
And Air-Through Caps
Put'em on all Six or Seven (if you've got a Spare) Wheels. You just need to remember you'll need TRUCK type Air Gauge and Air Chuck. The "straight" kind that are configured like this:
Not the more common angled one like this:
The STRAIGHT will pass through Dicor Simulators on the common 10-hole Ford wheels. Push straight onto the inner valve cap and pull back onto the outer.
Gene was fortunate. The truck shops I checked at couldn't give me what Gene got.
The fix I show here will also meet the wishes of those who want to rotate all their tires. I don't. I'm willing to leave the rear duals in place and rotate my spare with the two fronts.
Two cautions:
1. Domestic "Big Trucks" use a .625" hole in the wheel for the valve. Class C's, Cars, Pickups, etc. use .453". Some valves come with both gaskets, just be sure what you get fits .453".
2. On Ford Class C wheels, a 1-1/2" metal valve will NOT let you put even a truck air gauge onto the valve. The shape of the RIM interferes. You don't notice with Rubber valves since they'll flex. The custom guys (BORG, TM) sell Angled Front valves. If you use 2" valves, you're OK. OR... 1.5" + those Air Through Caps.
But remember this:
Friends Don't Let Friends Use Rubber Tire Valves!!!
Nope, not even with no extenders. That's how we got our Jayco, and I heard leaks just putting the gauge onto the fronts.
JUST GET SOMETHING THAT WON'T LET YOU DOWN!
OK - Here's a cheap fix:
Get Straight Metal Valve Stems
And Air-Through Caps
Put'em on all Six or Seven (if you've got a Spare) Wheels. You just need to remember you'll need TRUCK type Air Gauge and Air Chuck. The "straight" kind that are configured like this:
Not the more common angled one like this:
The STRAIGHT will pass through Dicor Simulators on the common 10-hole Ford wheels. Push straight onto the inner valve cap and pull back onto the outer.
Gene was fortunate. The truck shops I checked at couldn't give me what Gene got.
The fix I show here will also meet the wishes of those who want to rotate all their tires. I don't. I'm willing to leave the rear duals in place and rotate my spare with the two fronts.
Two cautions:
1. Domestic "Big Trucks" use a .625" hole in the wheel for the valve. Class C's, Cars, Pickups, etc. use .453". Some valves come with both gaskets, just be sure what you get fits .453".
2. On Ford Class C wheels, a 1-1/2" metal valve will NOT let you put even a truck air gauge onto the valve. The shape of the RIM interferes. You don't notice with Rubber valves since they'll flex. The custom guys (BORG, TM) sell Angled Front valves. If you use 2" valves, you're OK. OR... 1.5" + those Air Through Caps.
But remember this:
Friends Don't Let Friends Use Rubber Tire Valves!!!
Nope, not even with no extenders. That's how we got our Jayco, and I heard leaks just putting the gauge onto the fronts.
In the mean time before you get a chance to put custom valve stems on, you can still properly maintain your tire pressures.
I added short extensions to the outer dual, and use the following process to check & add air (78% nitrogen!):
I can move them to any wheel I want when I rotate the tires. I just completed this task a month ago as I had a vibration develop in the front right on our last trip. I pull the wheels & haul them to the tire shop for balancing. I reinstall them where I want, and I ensure the duals are properly installed, that is, the sight hole in both wheels is lined up with the indicator in the hub, and the stems are opposite each other:
Here's my Pressure Checking Process in pictures.
I added short extensions to the outer dual, and use the following process to check & add air (78% nitrogen!):
I can move them to any wheel I want when I rotate the tires. I just completed this task a month ago as I had a vibration develop in the front right on our last trip. I pull the wheels & haul them to the tire shop for balancing. I reinstall them where I want, and I ensure the duals are properly installed, that is, the sight hole in both wheels is lined up with the indicator in the hub, and the stems are opposite each other:
Here's my Pressure Checking Process in pictures.
