New Owner of an Used (1990) RV here-What do I need to know?

[SirPorkalot]

I have just purchased a used Class C, here are the particulars.

1990 24' Fleetwood Jamboree Rallye on a Chevy chassis with a (rebuilt) 454.

I am somewhat handy and expect to have to do regular maintenance along with some irregular maintenance/repairs due to the age.

While the beast seems to be in decent shape overall, and all systems seem to be (currently) in working order, I am looking for advice from the folks on here about what to look for going forward.

1. What are the typical issues/concerns with these models I need to stay in front of?
2. Any tips for upgrades to make the beast more efficient/productive?
3. What upgrades do I want to consider for dry camping? (solar panels/inverters, etc)

Thanks in advance for any help.

John

[Bordercollie]

Batteries are very important and require proper maintanance. Check output of converter/charger, when plugged into shore power, voltage at battery terminals should read around 13.6 if charger circuit is working. Battery terminals must be kept clean of corrosion and make good contact.Batteries should be of proper type, in good condition, and electrolyte levels kept above the plates.Engine starting battery does not get charged from the converter charger unless your rig has a device installed to do that. The house battery disconnect switch and relay must work so you can park the rig and not have 12 volt appliance controls and alarms slowly drain house batteries. If you need to replace the converter/ charger, recommend the PD 9245 from Progressive Dynamics, it takes good care of your house batteries with modern circuitry. I bought US brand batteries to replace my 10 year old Trojan T-105's, $50 cheaper than T-105's, supposedly as good. If you are going to park your rig for a month, disconnect house batteries and attach a Battery Minder smart trickle charger if you have 110v power available. Attach another one to your engine start battery .

[dcason]

reinolds753...how exactly do you pressure the rv? This could be good to know.
Donna

[reinolds753]

Find out how many leaks you really have and address them. How, you ask? Pressurize the coach and spray soapy water on all the seams from the outside. If there are no bubbles, you are ready to hit the road! If you see bubbles, you have a leak.! I just did this to my coach and found two leaks that I was not aware of. Water is your enemy! Do a pressure test every six months and you'll be fine! Or, you can go to an RV repair center and they will charge you $$$$ to find the leak(s) for you.

[azrving]

There is no telling what could go wrong at that age. You said it has a rebuilt engine. That's good but it also depends on how it was done. I have seen rebuilt engines go in without replacing the coolant bypass hose or water pump etc. Next hing you know it's overheated on the side of the road with a cracked head because of a $2.00 hose. My main suggestion is have money available to cover yourself out on the road. You are getting by without paying a lot so make up for that by having an "insurance" fund for repairs. There are a ton of things to check and I wont go on about it.

As far as boondocking or dry camping you will probably want 2 deep cycle batteries. It then depends on how long you want to stay out. If you limit the water pump and ceiling vent fan use and go with led bulbs you should get a few days or more. You may want to get a digital volt meter to monitor your batteries so as not to discharge too deeply. If you then go to a campground for a day you can recharge, dump and refill. If you want to stay out longer, then you need a way to charge the batteries with solar or a genny.

At the minimum you can run a cheap generator ($200 to $300) but do it without ticking anyone around you off. If you go solar its going to be much more expensive and become a project in itself. You have to size it properly and consider future expansion of the system.
You can charge you cell phone, laptop and other small things directly off your 12 volt system with a cigarette lighter type plug. You can even get 12 volt tv's and other things.

I use a 300 watt pure sine inverter to run two 24 inch led tv's and a laptop. I have a 400 watt modified also that I'm not afraid of and it was only about $40.00 at wally world.
Your traditional RV heater will be an issue as they suck propane and battery juice, depending on the model. A lot of people end up with catalytic type heaters that do not use 12 volts and are more efficient.

So, welcome, you have come to a great site with people in here that have been doing this stuff for a long time.

There is a battery voltage vs state of charge chart in the first link.

http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volt.htm

http://www.solar-electric.com/deep-cycle-battery-faq.html#Lifespan

[Peg_Leg]

Welcome to the forum. Now that you've been infected with the hitting the road and camping virus be warned there is no hope for a cure.

The engine compartment is tight, the 454 is a great motor but a monster heat producer. I would suggest checking the insulation around the engine compartment. Also check for a heat shield for the starter motor. Heat saturation lock up is a common problem. Maybe some heat wrap for the exhaust pipes. Even the small blocks in Class C's will give you a hot foot when driving so any heat shielding is a great investment. At the first sign of a miss replace the spark plug wires with a set designated for with standing high heat situations.

I had a class C with a small block and remember the heat. I've had many pickups with the 454 and always said it could cook dinner wrapped in tin foil while driving down the road. If driving in the desert I would consider adding some vent ducting for additional air flow to as near the top of the engine as possible.

I still think you have a winning combination. You'll think the gas mileage is terrible but it will be close or better than the small blocks. My 97 454 w/3.73 actually got 2mpg better than my 96 350 w/4.10 in identical trucks and the 454 was a way better towing beast.

[Bordercollie]

Have brake fluid flushed and replaced to prevent brake fade on grades,Have brake system checked and serviced as needed including replacement of front flex hoses. (flex lines can collapse inside causing sudden pulling in steering)Have all belts and hoses replaced if old/needed, radiator serviced as needed and replace belts and hoses as needed. Change oil in generator and check starting and proper function with roof A/C and microwave oven on. Check proper operation of furnace and water heater, fresh water pump, and total water system. Unfurl, inspect and and stow awning. Consider adding device to prevent unfurling underway. Have all tires inspected for sidewall cracking. Replace tires older than six year old per the date codes regardless of appearance/tread depth. Evaluate condition of house battery(s) and converter/charger. Consider installation of modern converter/charger that keeps batteries charged but not overcharged while plugged in to shore power for extended periods. Check condition of starting battery and replace if needed.

http://www.amazon.com/Progressive-Dynamics-PD9245CV-Converter-Charge/dp/B000GANZZ6

[donn0128]

SirPorkalot wrote:


When you say Gas system pressure test, I assume you are referring to the LP system.
Is this just a simple leak down test or is it more involved?

John

Most any dealer can do a pressure test for you for a reasonable charge. You might also call local propane dealers and see if they can do it too. Takes about an hour, they turn everything off and pressureize the system with compressed air and let it sit for about 30 minutes. If the Gage does not go down, no leaks. You really do not want a gas system leaking.

[SirPorkalot]

crickeydog wrote:

SirPorkalot wrote:
What are the typical issues/concerns with these models I need to stay in front of?

Welcome to the forum and congrats on yer new to you RV.

Typical issues and concerns for your type of RV is:

1. Water leaks.
2. Roof & window leaks, especially the front forward facing overhead window.
3. Water leaks.
4. Water leak damage behind walls and in sub-flooring.
5. Did I mention, water leaks?
6. Roof damage from lack of annual maintenance.
7. Water leaks.

Good luck.

Happy camping!!! See y'all down the road!!!:)

So......

You are saying there may be leaks??

:h

I'll keep my good eye open for any new ones :C

[SirPorkalot]

Dick_B wrote:
Suggest you take at least one of the tires to a qualified shop to have them remove the tire from the rim and check the inside as well as the outside. If bad one can assume the others are also. Anything more than about 7 years old should probably be replaced.

That seems to be good advice.
I have read about blow outs on these monsters and going down a mountain is not when I want to find out I have a bad tire.

:E

I will take it to the tire shop and have them inspect all 6 tires and the spare.

John

[SirPorkalot]

donn0128 wrote:
Water leaks and or water damage are your biggest concern by far. You might start with a seal test to see how many water leaks it currently has. Once you have those under control, then start searching for previous water damage.
Next on the line IMHO would be to have the gas system pressure tested.
Everything else will come.

Yes during my search I came to realize most all of these older MHs have issues with leaks.
I drove several hundred miles looking at RVs while it was raining and shortly after heavy rains and inspected/drove about a dozen older Class Cs, most with active (wet) leaks and/or active mold.
We quickly learned to look under any new contact paper, under beds, in hard to access corners, etc..

The one I ended up purchasing did have some water damage in the section above the cab, but it had been fixed by the previous owner who also resealed the roof, windows etc.

While there is not any evidence that I could find of active leaks or mold, I am sure these will crop up.

When you say Gas system pressure test, I assume you are referring to the LP system.
Is this just a simple leak down test or is it more involved?

John

[Dick_B]

Suggest you take at least one of the tires to a qualified shop to have them remove the tire from the rim and check the inside as well as the outside. If bad one can assume the others are also. Anything more than about 7 years old should probably be replaced.

[Mich_F]

Aside from checking for water leaks, were there any maintenance records with the coach ? Do you know when the anti freeze and transmission fluids were flushed/changed? How old are the tires - tread depth isn't as important as age ? Best of luck with your MH.

[gbopp]

Welcome to the forum.
As mentioned, water leaks are probably your biggest enemy. Use Eternabond and Dicor Self Leveling Caulk for your roof repairs and maintenance.

Also, check the age of your tires. RV tires usually age out before they wear out.

[crickeydog]

SirPorkalot wrote:
What are the typical issues/concerns with these models I need to stay in front of?

Welcome to the forum and congrats on yer new to you RV.

Typical issues and concerns for your type of RV is:

1. Water leaks.
2. Roof & window leaks, especially the front forward facing overhead window.
3. Water leaks.
4. Water leak damage behind walls and in sub-flooring.
5. Did I mention, water leaks?
6. Roof damage from lack of annual maintenance.
7. Water leaks.

Good luck.

Happy camping!!! See y'all down the road!!!:)