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Water pressure regulator

Gt327ds
Explorer
Explorer
I just purchased a 2012 class a motorhome and was wondering if a 40 psi water regulator is required as in a travel trailer.
19 REPLIES 19

bob213
Explorer
Explorer
Try here:
Water filter store

Ask them to ship it the cheapest way possible and save a few bucks. Or look at the photos and go to Home Depot and try and duplicate it.
You can avoid reality, but you cannot avoid the consequences of avoiding reality โ€“ Ayn Rand

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Mine is set to 50 psi. but yes, You need one.

Get a good one, Watts or Zurin, My current regulator is a Zurin, 3/4 inch with garden hose adapters. It goes direct to the park end of the hose (I use a short well reinforced strain relief hose first, like 5 inches)

The ones you find in the RV stores that are clinder shaped, about the size of a female hose fitting.. JUNK.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

NorthOrSouth
Explorer
Explorer
skipsor wrote:
If you are talking about the small pressure reducers that you can buy at the RV store forget about it. Those things are nearly worthless.

Do this instead. Go to Home Depot, Lowes or whoever is near you and buy the following parts:
1 Watts N45BU pressure reducing valve, Home Depot P/N 111388,

1 brass male hose to 3/4" pipe adapter, Home Depot P/N A665,

1 brass female hose with a swivel to 3/4" female pipe adapter, Home Depot P/N A661,

1 brass 3/4" close nipple, Home Depot P/N A877.

These part numbers are about 10 years old so they may have changed since then but the parts are still there. Ask someone in the plumbing department if you're not sure what you're looking for.

Put these together, attach a hose to both sides and you will not have to worry about water pressure again.

This tip appeared on here several years ago. After going through I don't know how many of the cheesy little pressure regulators, which in fact are flow reducers, I put one of these together and have never worried about water pressure since and that was almost 10 years ago.

The pressure reducing valve is the same type that is used on your home. You can adjust it for whatever is a safe pressure your particular RV.

All of the parts will cost about $50 but it beats waking up to the sound of water flowing through your RV at 3 AM.


You dont happen to have a pic handy?

bob213
Explorer
Explorer
J-Rooster wrote:
barlow46 wrote:
http://www.wattsindustries.com/images1/7/PDF/PRV_Applications_Guide.pdf
X-2,Watts #263-A


X2 on the 263A

Many of the cheap ones are really restictors not regulators. With the Watts you get "full flow" at a reduced pressure instead of just a reduced flow.
You can avoid reality, but you cannot avoid the consequences of avoiding reality โ€“ Ayn Rand

J-Rooster
Explorer
Explorer

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
I've used the blue Camco Hi-flow regulator ($12) in my pic for about 5 years. It works great and provides all the flow we need. It is factory set to 55 PSI.

kennethwooster
Explorer
Explorer
I bought a Watts from the RV water store just mentioned in previous post. It was ready to go and just works excellent. Guess I've used mine 2 to 3 years. Right now it is set to about 60psi. Excellent way to go.
kenneth wooster- retired farmer. Biblical History Teacher in public HS, and substitute teacher.
wife Diana-adult probation officer, now retired.
31KSLS Full Body paint Cameo
Ford F350 2014 DRW 4X4 King Ranch.
20K B&W Puck mount hitch

RedG
Explorer
Explorer
Here's a place that sells them already made up for RV use.
2005 Newmar Dutch Star 4024 DP 370 Cummins
Towing my 2012 Malibu w/Blue Ox towbar & Patriot brake system

barlow46
Explorer
Explorer
http://www.wattsindustries.com/images1/7/PDF/PRV_Applications_Guide.pdf
2005 Monaco Dynasty Diamond IV 42' ISL 400; Tag Axle; Residential Refrig (sold)
2004 F450, 6.0 auto, 4:30 pumpkin; BrakeSmart; 50 gal aux.tank, 2008 Mobile Suites RE3.

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
teddyu wrote:
All58Parks wrote:
teddyu wrote:
Does anyone realize that a typical RV pressure regulator only works when there is flow through the line. At a static head (no flow) the RV pressure downstream of the regulator goes to the service line pressure until flow is established, then the pressure is reduced. I do not use one. My system is designed for the typical CG water pressure. When I check-in I always ask how their water pressure is. If they say high, I fill my tank and use the pump. JM2ยข...


Not quite accurate. A functioning PRV (Pressure Reducing Valve) will hold the maximum setting even with no flow. A valve with a dirty or worn valve seat will perform as you say. I use these all the time in my line of work, and have tested and serviced many over the years.


I believe there is a distinction between the inline RV pressure regulating valves and the pressure reducing valve you described. The external spring in the PRV regulates the diaphram openning to maintain a set pressure. The internal spring of the typical RV pressure regulator acts more like an excess flow check valve than a pressure reducing valve. Big difference in functionality and cost. JM2ยข...


Teddy, If what your saying is that the pressure will equalize through a typical RV regulator when there is no flow, that is wrong.
My apologies if I'm misinterpreting you.

60 PSI without regulator:



45 PSI with regulator:

skipsor
Explorer
Explorer
If you are talking about the small pressure reducers that you can buy at the RV store forget about it. Those things are nearly worthless.

Do this instead. Go to Home Depot, Lowes or whoever is near you and buy the following parts:
1 Watts N45BU pressure reducing valve, Home Depot P/N 111388,

1 brass male hose to 3/4" pipe adapter, Home Depot P/N A665,

1 brass female hose with a swivel to 3/4" female pipe adapter, Home Depot P/N A661,

1 brass 3/4" close nipple, Home Depot P/N A877.

These part numbers are about 10 years old so they may have changed since then but the parts are still there. Ask someone in the plumbing department if you're not sure what you're looking for.

Put these together, attach a hose to both sides and you will not have to worry about water pressure again.

This tip appeared on here several years ago. After going through I don't know how many of the cheesy little pressure regulators, which in fact are flow reducers, I put one of these together and have never worried about water pressure since and that was almost 10 years ago.

The pressure reducing valve is the same type that is used on your home. You can adjust it for whatever is a safe pressure your particular RV.

All of the parts will cost about $50 but it beats waking up to the sound of water flowing through your RV at 3 AM.

teddyu
Explorer
Explorer
All58Parks wrote:
teddyu wrote:
Does anyone realize that a typical RV pressure regulator only works when there is flow through the line. At a static head (no flow) the RV pressure downstream of the regulator goes to the service line pressure until flow is established, then the pressure is reduced. I do not use one. My system is designed for the typical CG water pressure. When I check-in I always ask how their water pressure is. If they say high, I fill my tank and use the pump. JM2ยข...


Not quite accurate. A functioning PRV (Pressure Reducing Valve) will hold the maximum setting even with no flow. A valve with a dirty or worn valve seat will perform as you say. I use these all the time in my line of work, and have tested and serviced many over the years.


I believe there is a distinction between the inline RV pressure regulating valves and the pressure reducing valve you described. The external spring in the PRV regulates the diaphram openning to maintain a set pressure. The internal spring of the typical RV pressure regulator acts more like an excess flow check valve than a pressure reducing valve. Big difference in functionality and cost. JM2ยข...
Ted Fulltiming in the DreamCatcher a
2008 Challenger 371PE on F53 w/ 2010 Cobalt
R'V there yet?

All58Parks
Explorer
Explorer
teddyu wrote:
Does anyone realize that a typical RV pressure regulator only works when there is flow through the line. At a static head (no flow) the RV pressure downstream of the regulator goes to the service line pressure until flow is established, then the pressure is reduced. I do not use one. My system is designed for the typical CG water pressure. When I check-in I always ask how their water pressure is. If they say high, I fill my tank and use the pump. JM2ยข...


Not quite accurate. A functioning PRV (Pressure Reducing Valve) will hold the maximum setting even with no flow. A valve with a dirty or worn valve seat will perform as you say. I use these all the time in my line of work, and have tested and serviced many over the years.
2014 Wildcat Maxx 26bhs
2014 Ford F-150 Lariat Supercrew

teddyu
Explorer
Explorer
Does anyone realize that a typical RV pressure regulator only works when there is flow through the line. At a static head (no flow) the RV pressure downstream of the regulator goes to the service line pressure until flow is established, then the pressure is reduced. I do not use one. My system is designed for the typical CG water pressure. When I check-in I always ask how their water pressure is. If they say high, I fill my tank and use the pump. JM2ยข...
Ted Fulltiming in the DreamCatcher a
2008 Challenger 371PE on F53 w/ 2010 Cobalt
R'V there yet?