First Time RVer. Help a brother out!

[YuDarvish11]

Good morning to all. Thanks for taking the time to read my post. I am about 3 months from hitting the road to California from Texas. I recently bought a 2014 RAM 2500 Big Horn to pull an RV, or Camper. Not sure what the preferred nomenclature is in the RV community. I am looking for a fifth wheel with a toy hauler, but with the plethora of makes and models, it can be a bit challenging to decide what to buy. I figured I'd stop by a dealership and seek assistance, only to find that the sales team will try and sell you what benefits their dealership and their pocket. So, is there a specific make or model that I should stay away from??????

Thanks in advance for your time.

[C-Bears]

Martyn wrote:

YuDarvish11 wrote:
I found a 2012 ELEVATION 3310 TOY HAULER and It meets my needs. Thanks for the comments. I'm sure some of you were thinking "this dumb bastard" For the rest of you who took the time. I appreciate the time. Go Rangers.

It may meet your needs, but the truck you told us you have has an approximate payload of 3000 lbs, according to Dodge website.

The specs for that trailer, show a dry weight of 9985 and a GVWR of 15500. Using the 20% guideline you would have a pin weight of between 2000 and 3100 lbs.

With an available payload of 3000, you would deduct probably about 600 (in a spreadsheet that I always use for calcualting my own weights, I actually use a 750lb number)from that for hitch, passenger(s), fuel, and miscellaneous stuff you would normally carry, which in reality, would only leave you about 2400 available. If you load your 5er only frugally you will be very close to that limit.

Now, there are those that say if you are under the rear axle rating you would be OK. I am not one of them - the manufacturer does not provide the payload capacity numbers for fun.

Can you tow it, yes. Would I? Definitely not. It's your choice, but given the (admittedly rough) look at the numbers I wouldn't do it! JMHO

You actually will not know for sure if you are over on your weights with that unit unless you take it across the scales (fully fueled and loaded for the road). I agree that your numbers will be very close for pin.

Don't be discouraged by responses you get when posting questions on a forum such as this. If you sift through everything there is still some really good information out there. Good luck with your new adventure!

[Martyn]

YuDarvish11 wrote:
I found a 2012 ELEVATION 3310 TOY HAULER and It meets my needs. Thanks for the comments. I'm sure some of you were thinking "this dumb bastard" For the rest of you who took the time. I appreciate the time. Go Rangers.

It may meet your needs, but the truck you told us you have has an approximate payload of 3000 lbs, according to Dodge website.

The specs for that trailer, show a dry weight of 9985 and a GVWR of 15500. Using the 20% guideline you would have a pin weight of between 2000 and 3100 lbs.

With an available payload of 3000, you would deduct probably about 600 (in a spreadsheet that I always use for calcualting my own weights, I actually use a 750lb number)from that for hitch, passenger(s), fuel, and miscellaneous stuff you would normally carry, which in reality, would only leave you about 2400 available. If you load your 5er only frugally you will be very close to that limit.

Now, there are those that say if you are under the rear axle rating you would be OK. I am not one of them - the manufacturer does not provide the payload capacity numbers for fun.

Can you tow it, yes. Would I? Definitely not. It's your choice, but given the (admittedly rough) look at the numbers I wouldn't do it! JMHO

[YuDarvish11]

I found a 2012 ELEVATION 3310 TOY HAULER and It meets my needs. Thanks for the comments. I'm sure some of you were thinking "this dumb bastard" For the rest of you who took the time. I appreciate the time. Go Rangers.

[YuDarvish11]

Hey Bruce,
Found the GAWR on my truck and it is 2949 for the rear. I think I'll be ok??

[K3WE]

2gypsies wrote:
The OP is interested in what manufacturers are o.k. and which ones to stay away from. Hopefully someone will comment on his question.

I noticed that you didn't comment.

I honestly think it's probably bad to address that question...Yeah, there's lower quality manufacturers, but I'm thinking there's plenty of satisfied owners of those brands.

And, for the "Higher quality models"...I'd bet that tires blow and fridges quit and molding breaks, etc at a rate that is not all that better than the cheaper models.

There's probably a very strong argument that there isn't that big of a difference...

I recounted our experience- one model- I won't mention it- but it was less expensive AND you could see that the construction was sloppier (gaps in woodwork, etc). We looked at a higher priced model, but it was a foot shorter and had smaller tanks. The quality of the campers was pretty apparent.

We bought the middle-priced model. The Fridge, Stove, Toilet, Beds, Water Heater, Furnace, TV Antenna and Max Air covers and probably the axles, brakes, springs and bearings all come from the same manufacturer and the steel in the I-beams probably came from China...

I don't think I can tell him to stay away from a brand, nor recommend one brand over another.

And yeah, a bunch of toy-hauler owners chimed in to be careful that those can often (but not always) be too much for a 3/4 ton truck.

He may or may not be getting the answer he wants- but the comments are pretty much spot on.

[C-Bears]

The OP stated "So, is there a specific make or model that I should stay away from??????"....right after he stated he just purchased a 3/4 ton truck and his desire to have a Toy Hauler.

Wouldn't I be doing him a disservice if I told him about my buddies 41' 2013 Toy Hauler that he has been thrilled with, since it is a triple axle and weighs around 20,000 pounds loaded?

[2gypsies1]

The OP is interested in what manufacturers are o.k. and which ones to stay away from. Hopefully someone will comment on his question.

Perhaps the Moderator can move this to the Fifth-Wheel section.

[K3WE]

When we got our first RV we shopped at three or four different dealerships to learn about makes and models.

Your comment that there are so many models and makes and floor plans is actually a good response- it means you are seeing the truth.

For our experience, price vs. quality seemed to be fairly clear. There were some more economical models where it was clear that they were fairly cheaply constructed. That being said, (and lots of posts here suggest thie) it may be inaccurate to say that any are "high quality"...

...there's so much to choose from, take the time to get what is right. And perhaps the comment to go used, learn and then go back later for what you really want- that's valid too...we did pretty good in our purchase and have no huge regrets...though a slide out might have been nice. 🙂

[opnspaces]

Hello Yudarvish11 and welcome to the forum. It sounds like you have a decent tow vehicle, but you will want to find out a few more specifications before choosing a trailer.

First realize that the max tow capacity is only one of the numbers you have to be concerned with. The marketing departments scream it in their ads so it's what we see, but there are other considerations.

To make a good informed decision you probably also need a few more items that are on the drivers door jamb.

GCWR (probably white sticker)
RAWR (probably white sticker)
FAWR (probably white sticker)
Payload capacity. (yellow sticker)
The weight of you, and any other passengers minus 150 lbs.

Post those numbers here and we can help you figure out what you can pull. Here's a link to a running tow capacity thread about 1/2 ton trucks. Yes you have a 3/4 ton, but the way you need to consider the numbers is the same.
Link

[C-Bears]

YuDarvish11 wrote:
I appreciate all the comments. Thanks for your help.

Just from what has been posted, I think you are probably getting the idea that you will not have enough truck to pull a triple axle 40' toy hauler. And generally speaking, that would be correct.

I am guessing that if you can find a toy hauler with a dry weight in the 11,000 pound or less range you could be getting closer. You have to remember that with toy haulers there is a ton of extra weight that get added besides the "toy".

Good luck with your search.

[kayakcrazy]

Before I bought my present trailer I went around to the RV shows and dealers looking at units leaving my wallet at home. I checked out the different models keeping track of the things we liked and didn't like. I then went home and let my fingers do all the work on the Internet. Joined a few forums to see what other owners were saying about their units - my long list became very small in a real hurry. If most people were on there wanting to hang the builder I moved on. Of the ones that were left I then went back and looked at build quality - windows, tires, insulation, etc. I had several standard questions that I asked: how thick are the walls and how are they made (wood or aluminum) and fastened. A poorly insulated trailer is hot in the summer and cold in the winter. I studied the warranty as well as the better built units had a longer warranty. If the converters and appliances are failing you can't blame the builder as he is getting them from someone else. We finally purchased a Timber Ridge because of their connection to Arctic Fox. I had issues with my converter a month after we bought it but Outdoors RV has backed me up 150%. Good Luck in your search and purchase.

[NMDriver]

Buy used and cheap until you know what you want. You will learn a lot about what you like and do not like on the first trip.

Why a toy hauler 5th wheel? Why a 5th wheel? Will you be moving every few days or spending months in one spot? Is your toy going on every trip? What benefit does the 5er provide that makes it worth the cost of ownership? Do you know that it cost more to travel by RV than other methods?

You have already made the first new-to-5th-wheels mistake and bought the truck before knowing what 5er you will be pulling. Now you are limited to what the truck can carry -a hitch weight of less 1500-2000lbs I am guessing.

The second most common mistake is buying a 5er at the limit of the trucks ability. Using every ounce of the payload capacity.

3) Buying a 5er with the axles/wheels/tires at the limit of their capacity. Check the axle capacity, and bigger wheels are better (16inch minimum) because you can buy higher load limit tires that can be pulled faster without danger.

4) Buying complicated instead of simple. If your black tank handle is hidden away and you need a cable to reach it that is poor engineering. If you cannot turn on the 12V pump in the bathroom that is poor engineering. If the slide prevents you having access to the Fridge or worse the bathroom while traveling that is poor engineering. etc. etc.

Good luck, and try to find a friend with a 5er to talk about wheels, weight, set up, chocks, weight, weight and weight.

[YuDarvish11]

I appreciate all the comments. Thanks for your help.

[Martyn]

YuDarvish11 wrote:
The max tow capacity on my Cummins is 17,500lbs. I have indeed visited shows, and multiple dealerships. Is there a specific type I should stay away from? or is it all based on personal preference??

Max Tow Capacity is not the issue - the pin weight of the 5er is the issue, and what defines whether you will be over you load carrying capacity.

You need to find what is the 'loaded' pin weight of the trailer you are looking at, and then find the carrying capacity of your truck, as others have said. Deduct hitch weight, passenger weight and accessory weights etc. from that number and, if what you have left is greater than the 'loaded' pin weight, then you would probably be OK.

Loaded pin weight is usually about 20% of the GVWR of the trailer. Do not go by the 'dry' weight in the brochures.