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Which 3-row SUV should I get to pull a travel trailer?

knowmadically
Explorer
Explorer
Hi,

I'm new to RVing and I'm looking to buy an SUV that has three rows in order to seat my large family. This SUV needs to be strong enough to pull a large travel trailer. I'm not sure what travel trailer I'm going to get yet, but I think it may be something similar to the one below.

RT310BHS:
http://www.highlandridgerv.com/products/2016/roamer/travel-trailers/RT310BHS

RT310BHS specs:
http://www.highlandridgerv.com/products/2016/roamer/specifications/

I'd be very thankful for any suggestions anyone may have. The part I find confusing is how to know whether or the SUV has the power (engine, cooled tranny?, axles, etc.) to pull a large travel trailer.

Thanks!
29 REPLIES 29

wecamp04
Explorer
Explorer
Their are smaller lighter tt that would work for you and your family,just a though.

azrving
Explorer
Explorer
knowmadically wrote:
rjxj wrote:
Dont be in a hurry as there are tons of them out there. Remember WATER DAMAGE WATER DAMAGE. People and DEALERS dump them on unsuspecting people all the time. Spend HUNDREDS for inspections but dont let anyone burn you with water damage.

You can blow and engine or trans and eat the price of that but at least you then have a new eng or trans in a decent rig. When you have water damage you are stuck with it. Very hard to repair.

Come back here as you shop as many of these people have been doing this for a long time. Again, if you spent a thousand dollars on inspections and threw up your hands and said the heck with it all that's still better than having your foot go through the floor 6 months after you buy something.



Interesting. Thanks for these tips! Where can one find such inspection services?


I assumed you were talking about a used class C. Even if it is new I would still be concerned about water damage but not to the same extent. from time to time there are people on here with new rigs and water damage. It seems there are often times when rigs are a few years old people are posting about water leaks. It's probably not that they just started leaking but that they have just started seeing the damage.

Either way here's more ramblings.:)
Well finding the good inspector may be the tough part. Others may post with services that they have utilized but I have inspected the 5 rv's I have bought. I would say that you need to find an RV dealer that is going to put the effort into doing it correctly but I will also say that you need to learn how to do it yourself.

Like anything else how do we know if the dealer is good or not? I have met dealers who were wham bam get your money and tell you anything. I have also met guys who had their heart in it and would do a great job. I stopped to browse a dealer in Frederick Michigan, and told him I was looking for used FW. He said the new are over there, the used units are over there and the water damaged ones are to the back of the lot. I said wow you come right out and tell people that they are water damaged. He laughed and said what good would it do me to sell you something that had water damage? That's the type of guy you are looking for and is worth paying his price.

On the other hand I visited a dealer in a much larger city near there and looked at a few rigs that had severe water damage yet the sales guy was passing them off as nothing wrong. They know perfectly well that they are bad but just pass it along to the person who isn't careful. By the time some people would notice it's too late.

You need to read on here and other places about what to look for. Odors, wall paper damage, filon delamination, rusted fasteners, soft roofs, soft floors, soft corners on the roof, soft areas around items on the roof, soft corners in slides or behind couch or dinettes.

You then need to start looking at all the rv's you can. Look at rv's you have no interest in. Look at FW, TT any of them. Don't listen to the owner yapping about it. Go in and smell it, feel it and look everywhere. I had an awl that I poked through the carpet in the slide corners to check for softness. A combination of you doing the foot work and narrowing it down and then following up with a true professional dealer or RV mechanic inspection. You may try someplace like Craigslist or some other way of finding an RV mechanic or other mechanic. Someone in here that is near you may be able to recommend someone or work something out to help you.

When you look at a certain model and and year come back or search for problems that pertain to it. Again, there are old timers in here who have owned all of them and know this stuff inside and out.

YES, it's all going to be a pita.

Also think about these RV'er sayings......There are two types of RV's, those that have leaked, and those that are going to leak.


When it comes to owning an RV either have a lot of money or be very handy.

knowmadically
Explorer
Explorer
rjxj wrote:
Dont be in a hurry as there are tons of them out there. Remember WATER DAMAGE WATER DAMAGE. People and DEALERS dump them on unsuspecting people all the time. Spend HUNDREDS for inspections but dont let anyone burn you with water damage.

You can blow and engine or trans and eat the price of that but at least you then have a new eng or trans in a decent rig. When you have water damage you are stuck with it. Very hard to repair.

Come back here as you shop as many of these people have been doing this for a long time. Again, if you spent a thousand dollars on inspections and threw up your hands and said the heck with it all that's still better than having your foot go through the floor 6 months after you buy something.



Interesting. Thanks for these tips! Where can one find such inspection services?

Lantley
Nomad
Nomad
APT wrote:
The most recent SUVs that can tow that TT is a 2006 8.1L Suburban/Yukon XL 2500 with 4.10 axle ratio. No SUVs after 2006. 2000-2006 GM twins 8.1L and 2000-2005 Ford Excursion V10/4.30 or PSD. 1-ton vans also work from that era, again with V10 or 8.1L. They are all quite rare with low mileage.

How far do you expect to travel? If under about 250 miles each way, then taking two vehicles may be worthwhile. Then you can get an HD pickup to tow and whatever your other big family vehicle is, say minivan or smaller SUV.

About how much do all those people weight? More recent 1-ton passenger vans should be comfortable up to around 8000 pounds dry. There are other models with similar floorplans that would work. Unfortunately, receiver and payload limits almost all 2007+ SUV from towing 7k pound loaded TTs with large families onboard.


APT I agree with everything you said. It's sort of a sad day when SUV's are no longer available to tow large campers.
A crew cab pick up is no substitute for a 3 row SUV when it come to carrying passengers.
I feel the OP's pain
My current crew cab dually struggles to carry my family and large dog.
My fiver can sleep 10 people but there is no single standard vehicle that can tow the fiver and more than 6 people.
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r,RV760 w/BC20,Glow Steps, Enduraplas25,Pedego
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Porta Bote 8.0 Nissan, Sailun S637

dodge_guy
Explorer II
Explorer II
Watch the CCC on a MH some are very low! As low as 800lbs. Class C's are notorious for this. Class A's are better but a few have a very low CCC. Also seating will be limited in a MH.

I would still stick with a trailer, maybe a lighter one, they are out there. And look for a capeable 3/4-1 ton van.

Good luck.
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey

12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer

13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
better than a good day at work!

azrving
Explorer
Explorer
Dont be in a hurry as there are tons of them out there. Remember WATER DAMAGE WATER DAMAGE. People and DEALERS dump them on unsuspecting people all the time. Spend HUNDREDS for inspections but dont let anyone burn you with water damage.

You can blow and engine or trans and eat the price of that but at least you then have a new eng or trans in a decent rig. When you have water damage you are stuck with it. Very hard to repair.

Come back here as you shop as many of these people have been doing this for a long time. Again, if you spent a thousand dollars on inspections and threw up your hands and said the heck with it all that's still better than having your foot go through the floor 6 months after you buy something.

knowmadically
Explorer
Explorer
Great responses, everyone. Thank you so much.

Thinking it over, it seems perhaps the simplest and most straightforward thing here is to go with a motor home instead. The size of our budget will likely dictate that we get something a little smaller than we originally planned, if we go with a motor home. But my wife and I talked about it and agree this seems like a better direction to go. We are looking at Class C's now. We even found one that has bunk beds. This might work after all. I really appreciate all the great suggestions. I think you helped me see the impracticality if what I was trying to do.

APT
Explorer
Explorer
The most recent SUVs that can tow that TT is a 2006 8.1L Suburban/Yukon XL 2500 with 4.10 axle ratio. No SUVs after 2006. 2000-2006 GM twins 8.1L and 2000-2005 Ford Excursion V10/4.30 or PSD. 1-ton vans also work from that era, again with V10 or 8.1L. They are all quite rare with low mileage.

How far do you expect to travel? If under about 250 miles each way, then taking two vehicles may be worthwhile. Then you can get an HD pickup to tow and whatever your other big family vehicle is, say minivan or smaller SUV.

About how much do all those people weight? More recent 1-ton passenger vans should be comfortable up to around 8000 pounds dry. There are other models with similar floorplans that would work. Unfortunately, receiver and payload limits almost all 2007+ SUVs from towing 7k pound loaded TTs with large families onboard.
A & A parents of DD 2005, DS1 2007, DS2 2009
2011 Suburban 2500 6.0L 3.73 pulling 2011 Heartland North Trail 28BRS
2017 Subaru Outback 3.6R
2x 2023 Chevrolet Bolt EUV (Gray and Black Twins)

lgarcia
Explorer
Explorer
How far away do you intend to go camping? Cross country or staying near your home?

We have never camped more than 5 hours away from our house, and most were within 3 hours. Sometimes it is just easier to drive two vehicles. No reason everyone has to cram into one vehicle if you are camping fairly close by. If you are starting out, it might even be safer for you to travel with one or two responsible people in your tow vehicle.

It would makes it easy for you to change lanes, too, while you are getting used to towing. The rear driver can change lanes first and make way for you.

When we tag team, we just put our phones on bluetooth vehicle mode and converse back and forth. Unlimited talk on our cell phone plan is nice in that way.
-Laura
2016 Shasta Oasis 18BH (specs and floor plan in profile)
2015 Ram 1500 Hemi

dodge_guy
Explorer II
Explorer II
Your going to have to go used Suburban or Excursion. I`m towing a 9200lb loaded trailer with my V-10 X with 4.30 gears and it does very well! I`ve even had 4 adults and 3 kids in it on a trip an I had no issues!

Start your search for a lean low mileage HD SUV! Burb or GM van with the 8.1 or an Excursion or E250/350 with the V-10 and 4.30`s or a diesel! also an

Good luck!
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey

12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer

13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
better than a good day at work!

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
There's a 6door Mega cab in the tow vehicle section. That would do it for ya.
You CAN tow that with a big older suv as mentioned but you'll be overloaded unless you do some work to the rig.
Seeings you don't know much about vehicles and presumably towing, I'd reccomend you get a truck that is a little overkill to keep the 7 of you rubber side down.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Bionic_Man
Explorer
Explorer
This would work.
2012 RAM 3500 Laramie Longhorn DRW CC 4x4 Max Tow, Cummins HO, 60 gallon RDS aux fuel tank, Reese 18k Elite hitch
2003 Dodge Ram 3500 QC SB 4x4 Cummins HO NV5600 with Smarty JR, Jacobs EB (sold)
2002 Gulf Stream Sea Hawk 29FRB with Honda EV6010

bmet2000
Explorer
Explorer
I tow my 310BHS with a diesel dually

ChooChooMan74
Explorer
Explorer
Get yourself an old Freightliner or International mini school bus, preferably with air ride. Gut and customize the interior. Have a shop build a proper hitch.
Our race shop was towing back in the 90s with a 2500 Suburban locally, and sometimes used my F350 Dually. Well, after numerous close calls, we got an old full sized school bus, shortened it, and made it our hauler. 1st engine, a 6.9 Diesel, wasn't up to the task. That was upgraded to a Cat diesel.
Great American Anti-Towing Conspiracy
2015 Ram Truck 1500 Ecodiesel Tuned By Green Diesel
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD Tuned By Green Diesel (Retired to Daily Driver)
2015 Rockwood Roo 183
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