Annoying Appliance Aggravates Anniversary Affair

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We made it to our 30th!

We decided to run off and do one of our favorite activities - camping - to celebrate. Problem is, the first morning we got there we had a chill put on things. Looks like the thermocouple on our cold water heater* quit. (Fortunately we chose to go to a campground instead of boondocking and there were bath houses) The burner will light off and burn for about 15 seconds while the igniter continues to fire, then will shut down for 30 seconds. It will repeat that three times, then stay off until the switch is cycled.

I have decided to replace the water heater because:
1. it is 15 years old
2. I discovered the T&P valve 3 years ago would not open any more. I attempted to remove it and when I tried I started to crush it. Then I noticed the T&P valve would open again, so I stopped there.
3. There is all sorts of rust flakes falling off the outside of it (around the T&P valve and the annode)

I am guessing the water heater is a Suburban 5120A or equivalent based on appearance. Most all the labels on it are illegible and I have no documentation for it.

My question is should I just get another Suburban 5120A or is there something better I can get without breaking the bank? I expect that we will probably have this RV for at least another 5 years.

Your $0.02 would be appreciated!



* Yes, cold water heater. Why would you heat water that is already hot?

[EgorKC]

CavemanCharlie wrote:
My water heater is 23 years old and still works fine (knock on wood)

But, it's days are numbed. I bought this unit used 5-6 years ago. I tried replacing the anode rod once and it was so stuck in the tank that I chickened out and gave up. It doesn't look to me like it has ever been changed.

I wonder how long a tank will last on the original rod ?

That anode rod sailed long ago. We camp about 20-30 nights a year in various states with quite a difference in water hardness, minerals etc. Have yet to get more than 3 years before the anode is 90% spent. I always put pipe tape one before installing which helps removal for draining and check each winter.
Chef

[portscanner]

Well, I got home and it fired up right away. (The water heater that is)

[mike-s]

"Annoying Appliance Aggravates Anniversary Affair"

Artificial affected alliteration annoys all.

[CavemanCharlie]

drsteve wrote:

CavemanCharlie wrote:
My water heater is 23 years old and still works fine (knock on wood)

But, it's days are numbed. I bought this unit used 5-6 years ago. I tried replacing the anode rod once and it was so stuck in the tank that I chickened out and gave up. It doesn't look to me like it has ever been changed.

I wonder how long a tank will last on the original rod ?

Soak it in penetrating oil overnight, then use a six point socket and an impact wrench.

Maybe, or maybe it will just rip it out of the (weakened by corrosion) side of the tank. Then I would have to get a new one right away.

If I were to try it I would do it in the spring before first use so that I would have the time to get and install a new one.

[drsteve]

CavemanCharlie wrote:
My water heater is 23 years old and still works fine (knock on wood)

But, it's days are numbed. I bought this unit used 5-6 years ago. I tried replacing the anode rod once and it was so stuck in the tank that I chickened out and gave up. It doesn't look to me like it has ever been changed.

I wonder how long a tank will last on the original rod ?

Soak it in penetrating oil overnight, then use a six point socket and an impact wrench.

[CavemanCharlie]

My water heater is 23 years old and still works fine (knock on wood)

But, it's days are numbed. I bought this unit used 5-6 years ago. I tried replacing the anode rod once and it was so stuck in the tank that I chickened out and gave up. It doesn't look to me like it has ever been changed.

I wonder how long a tank will last on the original rod ?

[nineoaks2004]

Water heaters have a problem of build up of rust and iron sediment in the tank,
this plugs the unit up and slows water output. However the decision is yours, but if you got 15 years out of it might be time to replace, some of the newer "tankless"models have instant hot water and fit right in the same area as the 6 or 10 gallon units. In the end the decision is up to you.. Good Luck and Happy camping

[portscanner]

Problem is I cant get the P&T valve out to replace it. Any suggestions?

Annode is in good condition (replaced it not too long ago)

Unfortunately, lots of rust on anything that will rust. It was that way when I bought the camper used. The P&T valve is rusted in place.

Mountain Mama wrote:
Can't it just be used on electric? We've never used ours on gas. The only problem I see is if electricity is not available.

This model is gas only.

[SCVJeff]

Mountain Mama wrote:
Can't it just be used on electric? We've never used ours on gas. The only problem I see is if electricity is not available.

like ANY place one would boondocks or dry camp..

[Mountain_Mama]

Can't it just be used on electric? We've never used ours on gas. The only problem I see is if electricity is not available.

[dodge3500ctd]

Just for the record it is a micro amp signal not a millivolt signal. Yes, it is flame rectification and probably a dirty electrode.

[SCVJeff]

jetcare wrote:
Buy the new Suburban Water heater. You will be glad you did.

and the difference is the same hot water he would have had by possibly spending less than 5 mins cleaning parts? Sure, why not...

[John_Wayne]

Depends if you've taken care of your old water heater. Do you flush it out every so often? Has the android rod been changed regularly or when needed? If not then it may be time for a new one.

[Gdetrailer]

drsteve wrote:

STBRetired wrote:
Advise Acquiring Atwood Aluminum Appliance

Absolutely Applaud Action Advocated Above

Sorry, cannot switch from Suburban to Atwood unless you want to cut a new opening AND have the space available.

They are not interchangeable without large modifications due to different opening sizes..