You have the standard SW6D water heater
(
Suburban
Water
6 gal
Direct spark)
No real good reason to replace that water heater.......just fix it
The t-stats (under that rubber cover just above the gas valve) are good....otherwise the spark electrode would not even fire/CLICK.
Bad t-stats...no DC
The control module is OK cause DC is getting to spark electrode (CLICK) and gas valve (Flame lights)
The spark electrode is OK..it fires/CLICK
What is not OK is the 'signal that proves' flame is lit is NOT getting back to circuit board so it does it's 3 tries and then 'locks out'
When flame lights off a milivolt signal is generated (flame ionization/rectification)
That milivolt sgnal uses the spark electrode as return path to circuit board
Being milivolt it doesn't take much resistance to stop the signal:
* Dirty/sooted/carbon spark electrode
* Dirty/loose high voltage wire connections (orange wire for spark electrode
* Bad ground.....spark electrode assembly mounting bracket screw ---needs to be clean/tight
* Cracked ceramic insulator on spark electrode...signal goes to ground
* Spark electrode NOT positioned properly----needs to be 'engulfed' in flame (glows red)
In other words.sounds like you just need to clean/position or MAYBE replace the spark electrode.
BEFORE spending $$$
Suburban 232258
Is it time for your medication or mine?
2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31