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Annoying Appliance Aggravates Anniversary Affair

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Explorer
Explorer
We made it to our 30th!

We decided to run off and do one of our favorite activities - camping - to celebrate. Problem is, the first morning we got there we had a chill put on things. Looks like the thermocouple on our cold water heater* quit. (Fortunately we chose to go to a campground instead of boondocking and there were bath houses) The burner will light off and burn for about 15 seconds while the igniter continues to fire, then will shut down for 30 seconds. It will repeat that three times, then stay off until the switch is cycled.

I have decided to replace the water heater because:
1. it is 15 years old
2. I discovered the T&P valve 3 years ago would not open any more. I attempted to remove it and when I tried I started to crush it. Then I noticed the T&P valve would open again, so I stopped there.
3. There is all sorts of rust flakes falling off the outside of it (around the T&P valve and the annode)

I am guessing the water heater is a Suburban 5120A or equivalent based on appearance. Most all the labels on it are illegible and I have no documentation for it.

My question is should I just get another Suburban 5120A or is there something better I can get without breaking the bank? I expect that we will probably have this RV for at least another 5 years.

Your $0.02 would be appreciated!



* Yes, cold water heater. Why would you heat water that is already hot?
One beautiful wife -Trooper and Doc the furcampers
2019 Dodge 4500 Flatbed with 2013 Chalet TS116 http://www.brittanynews.us
23 REPLIES 23

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
Personally, I would just buy the thermocouple. The rest of the WH will be good for another 15 years and theres really nothing better about the new ones.

jetcare
Explorer
Explorer
Buy the new Suburban Water heater. You will be glad you did.
2016 F-250 Crewcab 6.2L 4x4
2012 Palomino Sabre 32' Travel Trailer

azrving
Explorer
Explorer
It all depends. Mine did the same thing. You can go the route that I did with our 14 yr old which was to triple check every connection on it then replace the ignitor and end at the conclusion that the card was bad. At that point figuring it would be about $125 to repair it or buy a new one on Ebay for $350 I went with a new one.

We travel for 7 months so there is a value in updating the appliances and not worrying about them. AC acted up so I replaced it for $575. It's noticeably more efficient, starts easy and quieter.

Doesn't cost anything but your time to check everything over.

STBRetired
Explorer
Explorer
Could not resist the opportunity for the earlier alliteration.

Old Biscuit has it correct. You have a failure in the flame proving circuit. Much less expensive to fix than a new water heater. I would also replace that temperature and pressure relief valve. I would not feel comfortable with one that could potentially be compromised.
1999 Newmar MACA 3796 F53 6.8L
2016 Ford Edge Sport
Roadmaster Sterling A/T with Brake Buddy Select

drsteve
Explorer
Explorer
STBRetired wrote:
Advise Acquiring Atwood Aluminum Appliance


Absolutely Applaud Action Advocated Above
2006 Silverado 1500HD Crew Cab 2WD 6.0L 3.73 8600 GVWR
2018 Coachmen Catalina Legacy Edition 223RBS
1991 Palomino Filly PUP

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
You have the standard SW6D water heater
(Suburban Water 6 gal Direct spark)

No real good reason to replace that water heater.......just fix it

The t-stats (under that rubber cover just above the gas valve) are good....otherwise the spark electrode would not even fire/CLICK.
Bad t-stats...no DC

The control module is OK cause DC is getting to spark electrode (CLICK) and gas valve (Flame lights)

The spark electrode is OK..it fires/CLICK

What is not OK is the 'signal that proves' flame is lit is NOT getting back to circuit board so it does it's 3 tries and then 'locks out'

When flame lights off a milivolt signal is generated (flame ionization/rectification)
That milivolt sgnal uses the spark electrode as return path to circuit board
Being milivolt it doesn't take much resistance to stop the signal:
* Dirty/sooted/carbon spark electrode
* Dirty/loose high voltage wire connections (orange wire for spark electrode
* Bad ground.....spark electrode assembly mounting bracket screw ---needs to be clean/tight
* Cracked ceramic insulator on spark electrode...signal goes to ground
* Spark electrode NOT positioned properly----needs to be 'engulfed' in flame (glows red)

In other words.sounds like you just need to clean/position or MAYBE replace the spark electrode.

BEFORE spending $$$

Suburban 232258


Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

SCVJeff
Explorer
Explorer
Why not replace the defective parts, if there are any at all? The lighting symptom you describe is often corroded parts, and/ or loose screws that wont allow the flame detect to operate properly
Jeff - WA6EQU
'06 Itasca Meridian 34H, CAT C7/350

STBRetired
Explorer
Explorer
Advise Acquiring Atwood Aluminum Appliance
1999 Newmar MACA 3796 F53 6.8L
2016 Ford Edge Sport
Roadmaster Sterling A/T with Brake Buddy Select

K_Charles
Explorer
Explorer
We had a contest once at work, longest sentence that made sense. One of our mechanics got it with 12 words.