Camping at 27 degrees.

[shannon62]

We are new fulltimers,with 2007 bounder class a 38v. We are trying to stick around sw p.a. till thanksgiving, they are calling for low around 27 degrees. We have ducted heat,2 furnaces,with supposed basement heat so say's owners manual. I am going to disconnect from shore water and just use fresh tank,keep heat on 70,leave luggage lights on (1156) in wet storage,leave gray water open as always & empty black then shut and add antifreeze.Should that be good enough ?Thanks Shannon.

[spoon059]

Thanks Grit, Happy Thanksgiving to you too!

[Grit_dog]

spoon059 wrote:

Grit dog wrote:
Pffft, real world advice is overrrated...you've been a member of rvnet long enough to realize that! LOL
Cheers!

Yea, I should know by now, but I'm stubborn...

Happy Thanksgiving spoon! And stay safe out there on the streets of DC!

[spoon059]

Grit dog wrote:
Pffft, real world advice is overrrated...you've been a member of rvnet long enough to realize that! LOL
Cheers!

Yea, I should know by now, but I'm stubborn...

[DallasSteve]

We were in far South Texas in February 2021 when the big freeze hit and the electricity went out and Ted Cruz went to Cancun. I think it got down to the 20s, but I'm not sure. I had 2 propane tanks in a 32 foot Class A, but I think I was down to one tank. We went through that last tank in a few hours that night, and I didn't have the thermostat set that warm inside. About 3 AM I woke up and the furnace was blowing cold air. But fortunately we had 2 electric heaters and our area didn't lose electricity so it didn't get too bad. If we had lost electricity we would've been sleeping in the Jeep with its motor and heater running. The point of this rambling is you can run through propane fast on a cold night.

[Grit_dog]

spoon059 wrote:


By all means, do whatever you want to do with your camper and your money. I was replying to the OP who was looking for real world advice.

Pffft, real world advice is overrrated...you've been a member of rvnet long enough to realize that! LOL
Cheers!

On a similar note, I've really been wanting to try one of those China bomb little diesel heaters for my snomachine trailer.
As I use a Buddy heater sometimes if need to warm it up on the mountain or a milkhouse heater and box fan to dry everything out at home after riding (since it doesn't get below freezing much here).
If only I needed to do that more than a couple times a year....sigh...

[Bobbo]

On the Espar, is the combustion chamber inside the living space of the TC, or outside of it?

[free_radical]

spoon059 wrote:

time2roll wrote:
All things equal the relative humidity drops with increased temperature. This is why the cold window or a cold beer sweats. The air in proximity cools and becomes more humid to the point the moisture actually precipitates out of the air and onto the item.

Same effect no matter the heat source.

Unvented combustion of any hydrocarbon produces moisture. Wiki has the chemistry if someone needs to see it.

I have no interest in the chemistry. I've camped in the cold weather using electric heat and I've camped in the cold weather with propane heat. Electric is cheaper. Electric has a lot less condensation buildup. Electric is quieter. Electric is more even temperature.

By all means, do whatever you want to do with your camper and your money. I was replying to the OP who was looking for real world advice.

To toss my 2c in.
Ive been using Espar diesel heater in my TC and its totaly dry heat,no condensation.
Used couple galons a week in Northern Alberta.

[blt2ski]

Jerry,
Have a picture somewhere of "floof the bear" with my at the time 15 month old grand daughter. Mr Bear is OVER 200 lbs
They can get really BIG!
My two were small!

Marty

[MFL]

blt2ski wrote:
Jerry,

Yes had all 6 of us in the trailer. Not mention two Alaska malamutes at 80 and 120 lb.
I'm sure all of us breathing helped to make more moisture in a 25' TT. None less, all the things mentioned would also add to the amount of moisture on the windows etc.

Marty

Hey Marty...those are some big pups, a trailer load, all-in! :C



Here's a pic of my snowmobiling, dirt biking, canyon racing buddy, with his Alaska Malamute, to give other members, an idea of the size of these gentle giants.

Jerry

[blt2ski]

Jerry,

Yes had all 6 of us in the trailer. Not mention two Alaska malamutes at 80 and 120 lb.
I'm sure all of us breathing helped to make more moisture in a 25' TT. None less, all the things mentioned would also add to the amount of moisture on the windows etc.

Marty

[spoon059]

time2roll wrote:
All things equal the relative humidity drops with increased temperature. This is why the cold window or a cold beer sweats. The air in proximity cools and becomes more humid to the point the moisture actually precipitates out of the air and onto the item.

Same effect no matter the heat source.

Unvented combustion of any hydrocarbon produces moisture. Wiki has the chemistry if someone needs to see it.

I have no interest in the chemistry. I've camped in the cold weather using electric heat and I've camped in the cold weather with propane heat. Electric is cheaper. Electric has a lot less condensation buildup. Electric is quieter. Electric is more even temperature.

By all means, do whatever you want to do with your camper and your money. I was replying to the OP who was looking for real world advice.

[dedmiston]

Veebyes wrote:
Point the thing south & don't stop until you no longer see bridge freezing before road warnings or no snow blowers outside of Lowes or Home Depot.

Sooo... Belize or Guatamala, somewhere down there? :B

I see those "bridge freezes before the rest of the world does" signs just about everywhere in the U.S. except maybe Florida.

[afidel]

Veebyes wrote:
JMO with only a few nights experience in the 30s but RVs are not good places to be in cold weather. Out of the factory they are not made for it.

Cold air leaks in around slides. Walls are thin. Glass is single pane & radiates the cold. Without some serious post construction mods they are simply no up to dealing with the cold.

You can put up a good fight against cold but it will take alot of electricity & alot of propane.

Point the thing south & don't stop until you no longer see bridge freezing before road warnings or no snow blowers outside of Lowes or Home Depot.

Been using a trailer as a home office for going on 3 years now in NE Ohio, put some Reflectix in the windows and vent covers in the vents is the only mod I've made. It works just fine and when I was using a combination of propane and one electric heater I was going through a 20 pound bottle a week on average, now that I've upgraded my electric at home to 50A and run 3x electric heaters I barely use any propane. The one caveat is that the water system is winterized and the temp is allowed to go down to 45 when I'm not actively using the trailer, I've got enough foodstuff in that I don't want it to freeze and it takes too long for the electric heat to recover if it gets too cold.

[Veebyes]

JMO with only a few nights experience in the 30s but RVs are not good places to be in cold weather. Out of the factory they are not made for it.

Cold air leaks in around slides. Walls are thin. Glass is single pane & radiates the cold. Without some serious post construction mods they are simply no up to dealing with the cold.

You can put up a good fight against cold but it will take alot of electricity & alot of propane.

Point the thing south & don't stop until you no longer see bridge freezing before road warnings or no snow blowers outside of Lowes or Home Depot.