Dual cam vs friction bar

[NCMODELA]

Hi, I took the trailer out this weekend and had a wonderful drive at 60-65 mph. No sway at all. I have a Reese round bar setup with 1000 bars. I had a Tractor trailer pass me at 80-85, it pushed me and the th about 2 ft off the road. But it did not oscillate. When a long line of cars passed it did the same thing. It only happened twice on a 6 h round trip.

I need to purchase a sway setup. Is there advantages with going with the dual cam over the bar. What would be better for this issue?

Thanks Bill

[chracatoa]

You can weigh your rig and do what Barney said above.

I did it through trial and error though (always trying to eliminate purposing) and weighed afterwards. I actually have more weight on the front axle than originally so I don't go over the rear axle weight rating (the fun of having a 1/2 ton TV). It also feels better.

[BarneyS]

Just adjust the jacks until the weight that was removed from the front axle of the truck by attaching the trailer is put back on. The sway control does not depend on the tightness of the jacks at all so you can adjust them as you need or see fit.
Barney

[Thumperpull]

Yep. But I bit the bullet and got the ProPride after pulling with a dual friction bar set-up and no w/d. Just finished installing it and towed the TT around the block. Just gotta figure out the w/d jacks adjustment. DW and I leave on a long road trip next week. Can't wait to try it out.

[BarneyS]

The one that uses the U bolts is the older style Dual Cam that is not being made anymore. Nothing wrong with it at all but some people had a problem with mounting it because the large U bolts interfered with the propane tank mounts.

Both styles perform exactly the same. The are mounting and adjustment differences only. I had the old style for quite a few years and was very satisfied with it. Never had bit of problem either adjusting or installing it. In fact, I prefer the old style to the new one because I feel it is a bit more rigid and stronger where it mounts and the cam arms are more robust.
Those older style Dual Cam units are becoming quite hard to find now.
Barney

New Style (has been updated from this picture)


Old style


Old style on my trailer

[NCMODELA]

The truck did not push the tv and tt together. It pushed the tv and I followed so it did not turn in to a big sway event.

What is the difference between between the $150 and the $250 dual cam setup on eBay? The cheaper one looks like it uses u Shakles. Are they the same thing?

[jerem0621]

The Hensley is a great design. Absolutely a masterpiece of engineering in my opinion.

It is not flawless but is pretty close.

But you can achieve a great towing experience with conventional equipment. (Friction bars, dual cam, sway pro, etc..)

Thanks!

[93Cobra2771]

mkirsch wrote:
If you're getting pushed off the road by passing trucks or lines of cars, that is NOT sway. You can install both a DC and dual friction bars together, and it will not solve the problem.

Sway is when the trailer wags back and forth uncontrollably behind the truck. A single oscillation is not sway. A side-to-side bobble from uneven road surface is not sway. The whole rig moving sideways as a single unit is not sway.

Unfortunately, I don't know what the solution is, but if the rig isn't swaying, then sway control will not solve the problem.

Sway control is still an EXCELLENT idea, but for other reasons.

A hensely or ProPride is the solution to the single event occurrence. When passing rigs come by me, TV and TT stay EXACTLY where they are in the lane. Don't get me wrong, the bow wave from the truck will buffet you, but it will not move you over.

Last year, a trip to Myrtle Beach, and I was in the middle lane on the interstate. A semi truck comes up on the left of me. I don't shift. I can feel the truck buffet just like I would without a tt behind me. When left hand truck gets up to my front fender, a merging semi truck on the right comes at my tail. I had a semi on each side of me and it was stable as a house. It was pretty amazing. No corrections with the steering wheel. None. Zero. Zip. Nada.

[mkirsch]

If you're getting pushed off the road by passing trucks or lines of cars, that is NOT sway. You can install both a DC and dual friction bars together, and it will not solve the problem.

Sway is when the trailer wags back and forth uncontrollably behind the truck. A single oscillation is not sway. A side-to-side bobble from uneven road surface is not sway. The whole rig moving sideways as a single unit is not sway.

Unfortunately, I don't know what the solution is, but if the rig isn't swaying, then sway control will not solve the problem.

Sway control is still an EXCELLENT idea, but for other reasons.

[Airstreamer67]

I run two friction sway bars and have had no problems with either sway or the jiggle from passing traffic. This is over a 30-year towing experience.

They are the classic solution to trailer sway which still works today. That's why they have lasted all these years despite the more complex and expensive designs now available.

So, I agree with Jerem0621's excellent review above.

[Hondavalk]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&v=WTQ5ML-O4B0&NR=1

Thumperpull wrote:
What's a Dual Cam?

[ChooChooMan74]

Equal-i-zer and Reese DC are both good hitches. The Equal-i-zer is easier to setup. I have the DC because that is what my dealer stocked.

[Ron3rd]

The difference is the DC has "built in" sway control rendering the add on friction sway devices unnecessary and inferior.

Another good setup is the Equalizer Hitch which I currently run after graduating from the old EZ Lift setup with add on single friction sway control. I went with the Equalizer over the DC due to the design of the tongue on my new V Hull trailer. Both the DC and Equalizer are good hitches. You might want to add a friction control to your rig and see if it alleviates your concerns.
If not, scrap your current set up and go with one of the better hitches with built in sway control. FWIW, I ran the old EZ Lift setup with single friction sway control for about 9 years and it worked "OK". The Equalizer Hitch is like night and day.

[goducks10]

Just get a dually and a ProPride or Hensley Arrow.:)

[jerem0621]

The following is MY opinion and MY personal experience with both designs. (Seems I have written a long response, many apologies)

The BEST sway control is a properly loaded and designed trailer, a Proper Tow Vehicle, and a properly set up and matched WD hitch. Sway control devices are supplemental and should NOT be used to correct a sway problem in the design.

Dual Cam Sway Control is a good design. So is Friction sway control .... when used appropriately (Meaning if you are over 25 ft you use TWO bars, no exceptions. If you are over 25 ft and do not use two bars then its not a fair comparison, DC is superior in this instance because the Single bar is being used outside its design parementer)

In my experience DC and Friction bars are on par with each other within their design parameters. I presently own both and found no difference between Dual Cam and Dual Friction sway bars as far as seat of the pants towing is concerned. I mean, no sway is no sway.. no wiggle from passing vehicles is no wiggle.

Hooking up is a little bit longer with Dual Friction bars, so dual cam wins there... by about 60 seconds.

The BIGGIE for me is that if I get in a bind with friction bars, I can just take them off. (tight maneuvering, etc.) If you get in a bind with Dual Cam you can grenade your WD hitch.

Now, I am NOT fear mongering or spewing some regurgitated garbage, I personally experienced a hitch failure while using Dual Cam. A Dual Cam hitch must be set up 100% correctly as to prevent binding.

I personally choose to run Dual Friction bars.

Here are some additional reasons why I choose not to run DC.

1) The WD bars are NOT attached to the Trailer with a DC. You can lose a WD bar by turning too tight and pulling the bar out of the cam. Rare, yes.. but it does happen.
2) Any weakness in the hitch will be exposed by the Dual-Cam in SPECTACULAR fashion.
3) If you lose WD you also lose sway control
4) Not every dealer handles, stocks, or understands Dual Cam Sway Control... this is a biggie if you have a malfunction on the road.

Friction Sway Control strengths

1) Effective
2) low cost
3) Replacement parts are available at every RV dealer in America and Canada
4) Removable
5) Not dependent on WD At all. (If you have a WD hitch failure, chances are you can still run your friction control)

Now the Friction bars are not without their weaknesses

1) The need periodic adjustment as the brake material wears down (quarter turn of the tension bolt occasionally)
2) They need periodic cleaning with a wire brush
3) They exert a constant level of tension, they are not reactive or proactive. They are just what they are, a dampener and a device to significantly increase the stiffness between the hitch head and the trailer coupler.

Now, I said that DC is a good design, I stand by that. I also stand by the statement that a friction sway control is a good design.

OP, your mileage will vary, and I hope that you gained a little insight from my experience.

Jeremiah