Flat towing a Jeep YJ

[Dexter_Bob]

Wondering if I will have any difficulty flat towing a Jeep YJ with my Dodge 3500 DRW CTD and 4000lb camper? I have a StowMaster tow bar to connect to the jeep and was going to add a couple of trailer tail lights and pigtail to the jeep.

Would I be safe without supplemental braking?

[LaddieHanus]

FIRE UP wrote:

Well Sir, it sort of depends on what year "YJ" you're intending on towing. The early ones, as in the first year for the YJ, '87 through '90 utilized much of the drive train from the CJ years. And that drive train, while many do and have done, as well as I, can be towed but, not without certain precautions.

But, the later YJs, the '91s and later, had the newer style "231" transfer case which, has its own oil pump, just inside the rear output housing. So, those model years can be flat towed without issues, what so ever. Just make sure you're in neutral on the T/C and the trans, if a stick, is in 2nd, at least that's the way I set up ours for a zillion miles of towing. And, if an automatic, Park is fine.

Scott

The Dana 300 was not used in the YJ.

87 models had the NP207 transfer case
88 and up had the NP231. If you wish to crawl under my 89 you will see the np231 tag on the TC and I bought it new in March of 89. The only drivetrain carried over from the CJ was the 4.2L six, the auto trans, and the block of the 2.5 4 cyl (it was changed over to TBI fuel injection in 87)

Before 95 the recreational towing instructions must be followed as the TC tied the front and rear driveshafts together, relying on the vaccum disconnect axle. Starting the engine could cause the axle to engage. Google true neutral kit for the fix.

I have seen you say the above in a couple of posts and wanted to set the record straight.

I have flat towed my 89 YJ a number of times. I have replaced the vaccum disconnect with a device called a posi lok which a cable is pulled to engage the front axle.

[mowermech]

Dexter Bob wrote:
What are some of the good supplemental braking systems out there?

Bob

IMO, there is only ONE "good" system:
Either the Ready Brute integrated towbar/braking system, or the companion Ready Brake system that can be used with any towbar.
Simple, mechanical, no electronics to fail, nothing to install and remove every time you need it.
It simply works, and works well, and it won't run the battery down.
And, it is relatively inexpensive, when compared to the magic electronic boxes.
It may be worthy of note that NONE of the presently available towed vehicle brake actuating systems have ever, to the best of my knowledge, been tested and approved by an independent testing laboratory.

[Dexter_Bob]

What are some of the good supplemental braking systems out there?

Bob

[Smokeman]

I have the truck and camper in the signature below and tow a JK which I recently weighed at 4400 lbs. My truck tows the load down the road just fine, you hardly know the jeep is there. I've towed this configuration for about 10,000 miles now and have not had any issues. I do use a supplemental brake system which I feel was a real benefit on one sudden stop. Generally I leave a lot of distance between myself and the vehicle ahead and slow for stops or corners very early. I think my camper weighs in at about 4000 lbs. loaded.

Brian

[Dexter_Bob]

Towing capacity of the Dodge 3500 4x4 DRW Diesel is around 19000 lbs according to Dodge.

[wilanddij]

What is the towing capacity of the Dodge?

[mowermech]

Define "safe".
Do you mean real world, thousands of people have done it and are now doing it and there have been very few injuries or deaths?
Or, do you mean safe according to the "Laws of Physics"?
I towed a Jeep behind a 1994 Dodge 3500 dually 4X2 with an 11.5 foot Caribou fully self contained camper on it, using a home made 41 inch hitch extension, and no aux braking, for several thousand miles. No accidents, incidents, or occurrences. Nobody was injured or died, nothing bent or broke.
Very few states actually require aux braking for a towed motor vehicle, although many have braking performance standards. Such as, you must be able to stop within XX feet from YY MPH. For the State of Montana, see MCA 61-9-312, Performance Ability of Brakes. California and some other states, and the FMVSS have similar standards. Considering the current "nanny state" politicians at all levels of government, if it was a real safety issue I do believe they would have passed a law or two requiring such braking systems, and setting standards such systems must meet. After all, if a 2 liter bottle of cola can't be delivered with a family size pizza, how could they not have a law about toad braking!
I have never seen an exclusion in an insurance policy which said that the company can refuse to pay if you do something silly, or foolish, or stupid, or illegal. I would be very interested in seeing a case where such a thing happened, or seeing the policy language which would allow it.
IMO, the Ready Brake or the Ready Brute integrated braking system/towbar assembly is the only way to go if you want a braking system. It is simple, mechanical, fairly easy to install, no heavy box to put in and take out, and I have never read a report of a failure resulting in damage or destruction of the towed vehicle brakes.

[paulcardoza]

It's a no-brainer that the weight of your truck camper plus the jeep will require supplemental brakes, in order to be safe.

[FIRE_UP]

Dexter Bob wrote:
Wondering if I will have any difficulty flat towing a Jeep YJ with my Dodge 3500 DRW CTD and 4000lb camper? I have a StowMaster tow bar to connect to the jeep and was going to add a couple of trailer tail lights and pigtail to the jeep.

Would I be safe without supplemental braking?

Dexter Bob,
Well Sir, it sort of depends on what year "YJ" you're intending on towing. The early ones, as in the first year for the YJ, '87 through '90 utilized much of the drive train from the CJ years. And that drive train, while many do and have done, as well as I, can be towed but, not without certain precautions.

But, the later YJs, the '91s and later, had the newer style "231" transfer case which, has its own oil pump, just inside the rear output housing. So, those model years can be flat towed without issues, what so ever. Just make sure you're in neutral on the T/C and the trans, if a stick, is in 2nd, at least that's the way I set up ours for a zillion miles of towing. And, if an automatic, Park is fine.

As for supplemental braking, your truck has good brakes for its own weight and the weight of a camper but, add the 4,000 lbs. + of a Jeep YJ, and you're asking for trouble, especially if a hard stop or panic stop is needed. Gradual braking, you most likely can tolerate but, you're still taxing those truck brakes considerably.

Now, this of course doesn't even take into consideration the liability if and when you might get into an accident in just about any of the 50 states out there and an insurance investigator finds out you didn't have any!!!

If you want a cheaper supplemental braking system, I might recommend the "Ready brake" from Night Shift Auto. I've used it for years and it's a great, well working system. Good luck.
Scott

[Off_Pavement]

In my opinion, there is no such thing as being safe without supplemental brakes, but lots of folks do and say they never have had a problem. I've flat towed a Jeep Wrangler of one sort or another over 100,000 miles over the years, and I know my supplemental brakes have saved the day numerous times... the latest being yesterday in downtown Las Vegas on our way home from Colorado. Additionally, your Dodge owners manual may actually specify the necessity of brakes on a towed vehicle over a specific weight.

Read this first, then decide if you are willing to assume the risk of towing without a supplemental brake system...

The Physics of Towed Vehicles