Just getting started

[fmjnax]

Newbie here, not just to the forums but all the way around. I wasn't sure where this post best fit or the best title for it so I hope it is fine here.

Quick background: I live in the Dallas, TX area. Aside from towing 20' and less boats, cars on the back of large moving trucks, and small utility trailers, I do not have travel trailer experience. My grandmother could no longer afford her TT payments so I agreed to take them over for her. Biggest problem with that is that she lives in Idaho, some 1600 miles away. Aside from pictures and word of mouth from family, I know nothing about the TT (my entire extended family does summer TT living in Idaho, so I generally trust their word of mouth on the topic).

Anyway, the TT is a 2005 Dutchmen M-29R-DSL. 33.5'. Just north of 7500 lbs dry. About 950 lbs dry hitch. Professionally serviced yearly and should be in great shape.

My truck is a 2016 F-150 XLT 4x4 (FX4) with the 3.5L Ecoboost and tow package. I believe it has the WD hitch (11k lbs a 1.1k lbs tongue weight).

I will be making the drive up to Idaho to pick up the trailer in July and will be bringing it back to Texas. I've been researching, but I'm just not sure what I need to do to prepare for the tow (reading things about stabilizers, sway, etc).

I want to try and have the truck and trailer ready to go before I get there. I tried to read through as much of the beginner sticky links as possible, but I just can't seem to make sense of it. It is A LOT of information to comprehend. I figured I would just make my own thread and see if I can get some personalized information. Where do I even begin?!

[atwowheelguy]

Check the weight carrying (not towing) capacity on the sticker on the side of the driver's door.

On the one shown below, it indicates that the total weight of passengers, cargo and TRAILER TONGUE WEIGHT should not exceed 1607 lbs. This is also known as the "payload". It also indicates that there should not be more than 3850 lbs. on the rear axle or 3450 lbs. on the front axle or 7100 lbs. on the whole truck.



When the trailer tongue is set down on that hitch ball behind the rear truck axle, it will lift the front of the truck some. With less weight on the front tires, it can cause a loss of traction and less capability of the steering and braking to work properly. The purpose of the weight distribution hitch is to return some of that weight to the front. One method to determine its effect is to measure the height of the front fender well before and after the trailer is attached to determine how far it rises. The weight distribution hitch tension bars should be cinched up to provide for the fender to be lowered at least half way back to its unloaded height. If you buy a new weight distribution hitch (WDH), you should get some installation instructions. If you get a used one, you should go to the manufacturer's web site and download the instructions.



My truck has a 1607 lb. "payload". With a trailer tongue weight of 900 lbs. and only the driver on board, the rear axle and the whole truck are loaded to 94% of their maximum weight.

Note that the WDH returned 72% of the weight that was lifted from the front axle.

[troubledwaters]

Remember if you get a new Weight Distribution Hitch WDH, there is part that goes on the truck, and part that goes on the trailer. You will have to allow time to install the trailer part then get everything all set up to properly match truck to trailer. This will all take some time. The simpler hitch you get, the less time it will take. And - you need to make sure you know how to install everything and set it up; proper tools on hand is a big part of this.

[ckemp]

Check with your local Ford dealer about having a factory brake controller installed. If I remember correctly the installed prices is around $300. With the factory controller you will get the benefit of your trucks built in anti say system. The built in anti say system is not a replacement for a good WDH, but will help if you run into problems. Also, be aware of over loading your truck with other items. The load capacity on F150's range greatly and you can easily reach your trucks rated limits. Power wise you likely won't have any issues.
Enjoy the trip home.

[fmjnax]

Excellent information, thank you Roy!

Looks like I don't have the brake controller inside the truck, but I see plenty of options online for one and I'm no stranger to that sort of install on vehicles so shouldn't be too bad. Plus, there is a electric brake wiring harness in the glovebox the I am assuming is for just such an occasion. I do have both 7-pin and 4-pin at the rear.

I know the setup is going to be right at the upper limit of the truck capacity. I've got a rated tow capacity of 10.6k and as long as I keep it as dry as possible for the return, I should be under max capacity. I'm sure normal weekend getaway use will be perfectly fine down here in Texas but I will have to take it easy getting it here for sure.

Good call on the mirrors, too! I didn't even think about that. Never needed tow mirrors for the boats and utility trailers so it wasn't even a thought.

I also didn't think about having paperwork with me. I have it here at the house, but that's not going to help me on the road. I'll have to make sure I put a copy in the truck.

[RoyB]

You may need some slip on TOW MIRRORs too... I carry a set in my tool box... I don't toll any large trailer trailers anymore and my POPUP TRAILER doesn't require me to have extender mirrors on my truck...

Mine look like this and fit over my Truck OEM side mirrors... Held in place with a large thumb nut.


Roy Ken

[RoyB]

Another issue may be the trailer license plate etc... It is sometimes a RED FLAG when law enforcement finds a trailer with a license tags from one state and the truck license from another state... They will pull you over to check it out...

I would definitely have paperwork on board showing you are the owner of this unit etc... Bill of Sale...etc...

Our state requires safety inspection stickers.... Not sure What Texas or IDAHO has... having expired safety inspection sticker is obviously another RED FLAG for law enforcement..

Roy ken

[RoyB]

Look on your F150 console just above your right knee in the drivers seat.

Should see a Built-in BRAKE CONTROLLER module that looks like this...


GOOGLE IMAGE

When being operated this will bring up a brake controller display on your system monitor screen...

My F150 comes with the TOW PACKAGE which includes the built-in BRAKE CONTROLLER... If you don't have this then you will have to get an after market one installed...

ALso your truck should have this dual 7-way and 4-way trailer cable hookup mounted next to your trailer hitch... Your trailer 7-way cable will need to plug into this 7-way receptacle on your F150 truck to operate all of the DOT SAFETY lights on the trailer. It also will have the ELECTRIC BRAKE connections as well...




Google Images

Also check your glove box inside your F150 truck for an unmarked envelope that will have a fuse and a relay in it. This is to be plugged into the main relay panel under the hood and is identified in your truck manual as TRAILER TOW. This Fuse and Relay once plugged into the correct position of your fuse panel under the hood will apply 12VDC to your 7-way receptacle when you have the truck ignition key turned on. This will provide some battery charge features for your trailer battery when being towed. This is more of a trickle charge but helps out... Your may already have this installed but this is where I found mine when I got my new 2010 F150 Truck... I had no idea what they were for...

You will also need to have a working 12VDC battery installed in the trailer to provide power to the trailer Electri Brakes in the even the trailer becomes disconnected from the truck when being poulled down public roads. This is a DOT SAFETY REQUIREMENT for trailers with ELECTRIC BRAKES... You will have a BREAK-AWAY SWITCH small steel cable to connect to a stationary point on your truck tow hitch area. This will pull out a plunger on the trailer side that will engage the electric brakes with 12VDC power from your trailer battery. This will help stop your run-away trailer...

Some folks are going to say you may not have enough truck for this trailer.

I'm going to say it will right at the border line of being safe... Be sure to plan only Interstate roadways to get it back home...

Just passing along in case you are new to something like this...

This would scare the heck out me if I had never towed a large trailer before haha... The only good side to all of this is you will be an expert tow'er after a couple of hundred miles down the road...

Roy Ken

[downtheroad]

Welcome to the Forum...doing your research BEFORE you buy is very wise.
Just a note: add Blue Ox SwayPro to your list of possible hitches to consider.

I've had Equal-i-zer and Reece Dual Cam on previous trailers. Have the Blue Ox now....all are good choices.

[fmjnax]

Thanks guys, that gives me a bit of a start.

I guess I was assuming that the hitch on the truck was the WD system (since the sticker lists "Weight Distributing" on it) so now things like tension bars, etc make more sense. I think my uncle towed the trailer up to the summer grounds for her so probably no chance of getting that system. I'll look in to an Equal-i-zer or Reese Dual Cam.

So for brakes, I need to have my dad check the trailer for a controller (or ask my grandmother/uncle)? Perhaps a dumb question, but how do I know if my truck has a trailer brake controller? Is it one of those things that if you have it, you will know you have it?

The rest of the trailer should be good. Tires are 1 year old and the trailer is kept covered and out of the elements. I've already got my parents doing all that checking, though.

The 3.5L Eco's are strong trucks. I don't have much worry towing around the flatlands of Texas down here, but I'm highly anxious about towing it down from 10k' elevation to the ~200' elevation here. Not really worried about fuel mileage as that is expected to be well under 10MPG. It's more the downhill and distance that is worrisome to me.

So to sum up:
1) I need to get a weight distributing system with sway control installed on the truck (Equal-i-zer or Reese Dual Cam).
2) I need to have the trailer checked for brake controller (and probably have it tested).
3) I need to check the truck for a brake controller and get one installed if I don't have one
4) General/routine check on the trailer (tires, wiring, all the usual sort of stuff)

[DutchmenSport]

Your truck should be towing ready. It should have a brake controller for electric brakes in the camper. If your truck does not have the brake controller, you'll need to get an after market one installed before you tow. Otherwise you will have no trailer brakes. And the F150 will not have enough braking power to brake for both the truck and the trailer by itself. Plus, it's illegal to tow a trailer of that weight with no brakes. And this in every State.

Second, you will need a weight distribution hitch also. I suggest, if your grandmother has a weight distribution hitch she used on her vehicles, that you use it too. You will have to adjust the tension to match your tow vehicle, but the entire hitch system (whatever it is) should be all complete. If it's the old style Reese with chains on the bars, then adjusting the tension will be pretty easy, just lengthen or shorten the chains. If it's an Euql-i-zer system, then you many need to adjust the height of the L-brackets on the trailer frame.

Depending on the weight distribution system, you'll need sway control too. If an Equal-i-zer or Reese Dual Cam, it has built in sway control. If you go with a Blue ox, or the standard bars with chains, you'll need the separate friction sway bar. The existing trailer and existing hitch will be set up already for it.

Hopefully, she will give you the Weight Distribution Hitch she used. If not, you'll need to get one and get it fitted before towing.

Other than properly inflated tires, there's not much more you can do to prepare your truck.

You'll need to check out the trailer too. Make sure tires look good, and are aired up to max pressure. Check brakes, lights, and take it around the block before heading out long distance. Make sure it handles safe and your truck can handle it OK.

Your truck will be working to pull that trailer. Expect your fuel mileage to drop a bunch when towing. But I think you'll be able to get that trailer home.

Good luck.

[mbutts]

The truck will require a weight distribution (WD) hitch to be used. The WD hitch is installed on the trailer's tongue, not the truck, to shift some of the weight from the trailer's tongue to the front of the truck. Otherwise, your truck's rear end and the trailer tongue will dip quite a bit.

Here's a good overview of how those hitches work: Link