Parking a Class A within 4" of a wooden fence

[zonearc]

We're moving to a 32' Class A from our 23' Class C. The longer coach will make parking somewhat difficult on our property. The only way to make it work is to nose it in to the side yard a little (roughly 2'), which is just over 9' wide. This will pull the coach very close to the wooden fence we have. To avoid the possibility of grazing it and shredding paint off the coach, I was wondering if anyone had suggestions of something to do on that side of the wooden fence. While the right answer would be "don't hit it!" , its bound to happen once ... and I'd like to avoid an expense paint job as a course of that.

Thanks for any suggestions you may have!

-Mike

[zonearc]

In our case, the problem is that its not the widest street and I'll have to turn it in pretty tight. I'm not saying its not doable, but it is going to take finesse, frustration, etc. But I'll get it. Maybe wood and railroad ties won't work, but I still wish I could have something over the fence to prevent a scratch or ding. If I hit it hard enough to knock over the fence then I'm applying too much gas.

[CavemanCharlie]

valhalla360 wrote:
We split time on our boat. The fender idea isn't likely to help. At best it will push the fence over.

The railroad ties will only be helpful if you can get the rig perfectly straight before backing in. If there is any angle the 4" of space will easily be eaten up by the overhang. If you have it perfectly straight, you really don't really need guides.

Push the fence over but, not maybe hurt the RV ? Most likely easier, and cheaper, to set the fence back up then fix the scratch on the RV.

I agree that not hitting the fence is the best idea. I though maybe this was a back up plan just in case he hit the fence by accident.

[valhalla360]

We split time on our boat. The fender idea isn't likely to help. At best it will push the fence over.

The railroad ties will only be helpful if you can get the rig perfectly straight before backing in. If there is any angle the 4" of space will easily be eaten up by the overhang. If you have it perfectly straight, you really don't really need guides.

[Rollnhome]

I'd be more concerned about knocking the fence down.

[4x4van]

Wow, amazing all the suggestions to make something that will not damage the RV "when" you hit the fence. If I were that sure that I was going to hit something with my RV, parking my RV there would no longer even be an option. How about "not" hitting the fence?

[zonearc]

Another really cool way to do it would be a padded wooden beam like they have for gymnasts. But, its likely just putting a beam by the tire will provide enough control.

[riven1950]

Just had a idea when someone mentioned boat fenders.Make your own. I made a version for my kayak rack so they would roll on the carrier. Mine was horizontal, your would be vertical. Cheaper than boat fenders.

Take small pvc pipe, maybe 1/2", bury it ( them ) in ground along fence, vertical of course. Glue a fitting on it for a stop at ground level. Take a larger pvc pipe, maybe 3/4", insert over the 1/2" pipe. Cover the 3/4" pipe with the soft rubber pipe insulation. If you happen to hit it the 3/4" pipe it will spin on the 1/2", rubber will protect your vehicle. When you are done you could remove the 3/4" pipe / insulation and store inside till next time.

[ccxnola]

jwmll,
You must be dang well as old as I am!! YES - the 'curb feelers' were a MUST HAVE when driving your prize vehicle on the streets!!
(AND - they worked!!)

[jwmII]

Boat fenders are worth a look. They are available in varying sizes.

Also! Are you old enough to remember the curb feelers that people had on their cars in the late forties and early fifties. I have not seen them in years. When they were around they worked quite well. They were basically a stiff steel wire or rod attached to the car so they would contact the curb when parallel parking. They emitted a harmonic sound that was unmistakable and kept the driver from hitting the curb and scuffing up their wide whitewalls. It wouldn't be that hard to make a set. Drag them down a wood fence and the effect would probably be similar to dragging them on a concrete curb.

[CavemanCharlie]

Boat Fenders sounds like a good idea.

I was going to say get some of that foam pipe rap stuff and wrap it around the spots that will be the first to get hit. Then remove the pipe wrap and place throw it in the rv until next time you need to back in.

[Dashonthedash]

Many places (including the community I live in) have a minimum distance that a vehicle may be parked from the property line. Please make sure you understand your local ordinances before making any modifications to your parking space.

[obgraham]

The unmentioned problem is that if you can't get the rig straight before backing in, and have to make any kind of turn, the swing will take up your 4 inches of clearance very quickly. So either it will fit or it won't. With a spotter, you'll learn quickly how to back it in if it will fit.

[zonearc]

Thank you for all of the advice! I like the idea of building a guide using wood which I can position and wnchor in using railroad ties. I also called around and found an outside rv storage place near us for $74 a month, but I'm more hesitant to park it there due to the pain of getting to it and the fear of break-ins. Now I just need to make my decision!

[John_Wayne]

Just watch your mirrors I back in next to a cinderblock wall and get with in 2 inches been doing it for 15 years no problem. Just go slow.

[imgoin4it]

I back into a very tight spot. Drive way is concrete and I put a strip of highway marking tape down on it. If I keep the outside dual on the tape I Dont hit any thing. I would opt for a curb as others have mentioned and run the tire right next to it. Keep the wheel close enough to it that if you started to climb it you would know you were about to hit the fence and take appropriate actiom.