Receiver pin holes out of round.

[RTQuig]

Hello everyone.
I have a 2010 Chevy Silverado 1500 with a tow capacity of 9200 lbs.
My trailer is a 31' Tracer Touring model lite. Empty, it is under 7,000 lbs. Loaded, at most would be less than 7700 lbs. We carry little food, buy once we get to a campground. We basically carry cloths, 15 gallons of water, and chairs, sewer hoses, and water hoses.

I have never put this combo on a scale.
Before going on a 1000 mile round trip vacation this year, I noticed that the pin hole on one side was slightly out of round, at the bottom of the pin hole.
Today, while pulling the hitch out to put it in the garage, I noticed the hole has gotten larger and the other side is starting to get slightly larger.

I have a Reese WD hitch, with the Trunnion Bar setup.

I want to put on a new receiver, but before I ruin a second one, wonder if anyone has any input on how this is happening?
The receive came new with the truck and is a class IV. It is code VR4 on the options, can handle 10,500 lbs with the WD set up.

We followed the instructions when we first set it up, and it towed fine. We didn't tow last year, and I don't remember which link the chain was pinned at. Could I have made the bars too tight this time around?

Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Rich

[RTQuig]

I don't regret replacing the hitch after seeing the rust come out of it when I pulled it off. The hole is wearing down (6 O'clock), not towards the rear.
When I first hooked up this year, I noticed there was a little wear on the left side where the pin bends, and no wear on the side with the lock. After our last 1,000 mile trip, it was noticeable larger.
It's a done deal either way with the new Curt installed. Tomorrow I have to install the MaxAir vent covers that I never got around to do.

[Bedlam]

Ivylog wrote:
I would have a welding shop drill 5/8th holes in 1/4"X2" flat stock and weld to your hitch. Actually I'd do it my self or drill the hitch and receiver holes out to 3/4".

I did the same with 3/8" flat stock on my OEM Ford receiver when I towed an 11.5K lb trailer.

I now use a SuperHitch that has the holes reinforced by design.

[dodge_guy]

RTQuig wrote:
I bet I am actually less than the 7700 lbs.
Replacing the OEM hitch with the Curt made me see that the OEM was much lighter and not as well built. I also purchased a dog bone type pin with "O" rings to stop the side to side movement. The side with the bent pin showed much more wear than the opposite side that has only started to show wear.
The new Curt is designed to tow 10,000 regular and 12,500 with a weight distribution hitch, which is what I have.

dodge guy, what do you believe to be the issue?

It's the forces being applied when braking. You have 4 wheels pulling back on the hitch which in turn pulls back on the pin! And even with a WD hitch keeping things tight with the forces involved it still exerts quite a bit of force on the pin.

Although some may be on the money that it is the cheaper metal used by he OEM's. I haven't noticed any wear on My Replacement Curt since I installed it 2 years ago!

[RTQuig]

I bet I am actually less than the 7700 lbs.
Replacing the OEM hitch with the Curt made me see that the OEM was much lighter and not as well built. I also purchased a dog bone type pin with "O" rings to stop the side to side movement. The side with the bent pin showed much more wear than the opposite side that has only started to show wear.
The new Curt is designed to tow 10,000 regular and 12,500 with a weight distribution hitch, which is what I have.

dodge guy, what do you believe to be the issue?

[dodge_guy]

You will get that wear no matter what you do. I had that same wear on mine. it was on both sides of the receiver and I always put my bent hitch pin in from the left. so it is not due to the type of hitch pin. it is from the forces involved.

And I`ll bet you are closer to 8klbs than the 7700 you think you are at. although that is not your issue!

[parcany]

I put a small hose clamp on the bent side Works good.

[Airstreamer67]

I too put washers on both sides of the bent-style pins. I use a hose clamp on the "bent" end to keep that washer in place. It's a cheap fix that works.

[RTQuig]

There is actually very little play in the receiver, but there is some. A new Curt receiver arrived today, the box was destroyed and the hardware missing. UPS is picking it up tomorrow for return.

[mkirsch]

The reason is SLOP. Your shank fits sloppily in the receiver tube, and moves around as you accelerate, decelerate and turn. This motion works the pin back and forth, wallowing out the hole.

[RTQuig]

kofire wrote:
Just tack a washer on your current l shaped pin.

That's also a possibility.

[kofire]

Just tack a washer on your current l shaped pin.

[RTQuig]

I ordered a Curt 14301 receiver to replace the OEM. I am now looking for a good pin lock.

[RTQuig]

Thanks again for the replies, they are helpful. I have looked at the torklift but honestly, it is too expensive. I may go with the Curt, and also like the idea of welding and drilling, there are plenty of shops in the area that could do this work.

[GeoBoy]

You can replace your hitch with the best hitch on the market, Torklift Super Hitch or you can go to a local bolt distributor and purchase the proper size hardened washers and have them welded to your existing hitch.