The Safe Zone

[Big_Blue]

Is plus/minus three inches? I'm high at 2-3/4 inches.

Acceptable or should I get a two inch drop hitch - for peace of mind?

[et2]

You're within acceptable heights. If it were me, I'd take into consideration the slop in the hitch a riser would add. We have a 4" riser and it was terrible. I added 2 hitch immobilizers to snug it all together. I wish we didn't have the riser.

IMHO if I were within the limits I'd leave mine alone. The more you add to the hookup your just adding more things to go wrong.

[down_home]

Nearly right, nearly perfect? Get the drop hitch or whatever to make it right on.
Don't want a little diving or little jacking up or........

[UsualSuspect]

Mine was 2" high, but they will tell you the closer to level the better, so I bought a 2" drop hitch and flipped it. No issues in 10K worth of towing it.

[willald]

..Tons of factors enter into this. So much so, that there really is no one specific cover-all answer to this question of tow bar height difference that is 'safe'.

Some tow bars are more tolerant of being unlevel than others. The specifics of the MH and toad involved plays a role, too. If you're using a braking system like ReadyBrake, the tolerance there is a little less, as it works best when things are level.

Also, you also need to think about ramifications of using too much 'drop'. The bigger of a 'drop' bar you use, the more likely your rig is to scrape and drag back there when going over bumps, inclines, etc. This can damage or weaken your hitch reciever, tow bar, or both. This is especially true with Motorhomes that have a long overhang past the rear axle.

I'd much rather have a tow bar that is 2" out of level, than one that is perfectly level but scrapes and drags so bad that you risk weakening the hitch to the point that it can break and let the toad loose going down the highway!

Thats why you shouldn't buy completely into the 'get the tow bar as close to level as you possibly can no matter what' mentality. There are other factors to consider.

[j-d]

I have the instructions for Roadmaster Falcon, and Safe Zone is +/- 3"

[Gjac]

It depends on which tow bar you have. Demco, Blue Ox and others post the tolerances on their web sites.

[Big_Blue]

Don, yes on the signature upgrade.

2008 Winnebago Destination
39 foot Class A
Diesel Pusher
2015 Subaru Forestor.

[DSDP_Don]

It would be nice to know what type of coach you have. If it's a Class C or Class A gasser with a long overhang, you might want to be as level as possible.

Fill in your signature so when you ask questions, people know what you're asking about.

I hate the extensions and drop downs.....just more to deal with, so on my last coach, I had a another receiver (6" long) welded to the underside of the current receiver. It gave me two positions and brought my tow bar level.

[klutchdust]

If the safe zone is plus or minus 3 inches, 2/34 is in that category for me. The deal breaker for me was the braking system. I use the ready brake, I lowered my hitch attachment points on my Jeep. I fasten directly to the aftermarket bumper, the bolts go through the bumper into the JK's frame, so some mods were in order.

[Roadpilot]

I'm with Mowermech. I've always wanted things as level as possible.

[rr2254545]

I think that the norm should be no more than 4 inches

[mowermech]

Personally, I would want the tow bar as near level as I could get it, so I would get the drop hitch.
But that is just the way I am.
If you are happy with it as it is, that is probably good enough.
The "safe zone" is not an iron-bound law.