Too cold for my refrigerator??????

[TNRIVERSIDE]

I am new to having a RV style refrigerator. While reading my owner manual (yes, I'm one of those that actually read the manuals) for my Norcold N61X I notices a section titled "Effects of Freezing Temperatures on Refrigerator Operation". It states that below 32 exposure may disrupt the operation. It states the the operation will resume when the temperatures warms. So if the outside temps stay below 32 it sounds like the refrigerators inside temp will rise. Has anyone experienced this?

[insp1505]

fpresto wrote:
It is possible to get too cold. Remember that RV refrigerators are absorption units. The ammonia is heated in the boiler at the bottom of the unit, turns into a gas, rises up through the coils absorbing heat as it turns back into a liquid and then falls via gravity back to the boiler starting the cycle again. Too cold and the gas may liquefy too soon and block the tubing stopping the cooling. I suspect that it would have to be pretty cold but it is possible.

X2

I full timed in mine through Idaho winters. I never had a problem with my Norcold fridge until the outside temps got to 0F or below. It can become too cold to cool. It sounds weird but google into how the absorption fridge works and it makes sense.

As others have said blocking off some (not all) of the venting and possibly add a heat source such as a lamp to the back side (outside compartment) of the fridge to keep the system working efficiently is the fix for very cold weather. Just be careful it is still vented and that your heat source doesn't pose a fire risk or a warm fridge will be the least of your problems!

I added reflectix to the inside of the panel and then blocked off some of the vents with pipe insulation. I didn't have to add a heat source such as a light bulb with this method. Just remember to start removing insulation as outside temps increase.

[mike243]

The thermistor in the fresh food section triggers the unit to run.temps in the low 30's wont let it run the freezer will come up to fresh food temps until it gets warm enuf to trigger that cooling is needed in the fresh food section

[fpresto]

It is possible to get too cold. Remember that RV refrigerators are absorption units. The ammonia is heated in the boiler at the bottom of the unit, turns into a gas, rises up through the coils absorbing heat as it turns back into a liquid and then falls via gravity back to the boiler starting the cycle again. Too cold and the gas may liquefy too soon and block the tubing stopping the cooling. I suspect that it would have to be pretty cold but it is possible.

[TurnThePage]

doxiemom11 wrote:
Aren't they talking about the outside air temps and operating on propane? We keep our on electric and haven't had any problems.

It happens on electric too. Has nothing to do with propane and cold. I've learned if it's going to be that cold outside for an extended time, I either have to remove the contents of the freezer or warm up the back of the unit as previously posted. The refrigerator section has continued to do it's job in my particular case.

[sowego]

It sure can affect the operation to the point it will totally stop cooling if the temps stay really cold for an extended period of time. Generally it takes more than just down to freezing but once you start hitting teens and below it can shut down/stop cooling.

We had our unit freeze when we fulltimed parked beside the barn in our home location...the temps dropped into sub-zero and it shut down and did not warm up enough to thaw it naturally for over a month. We had it running on electric but even running on gas it would not thaw out.


You can indeed put items that need to be cold outside in a cooler but frozen items won't stay frozen unless you have zero temps. We were newbies at the time, did close off part of the vents but did not put a light in until we finally heard about the fix. It did indeed work and the unit began functioning normally.

One other item is especially vulnerable unless you add heat to the refrigerator back...the icemaker valve is plastic and it will indeed freeze, crack and start leaking when the temps drop below freezing and with that piece it did not take sub-zero to do it...2 days at 28 did that job! We removed the ice maker valve and have never replace it again! It is so much easier to just buy a bag of ice whenever we need it.

The fix is fairly simple...close off part of but not all of the outside vents on the back of the refrigerator but never the top roof vents. Next...put in a drop light or install an electrical outlet to plug in a 60W incandescent bulb for the coldest days. Try to park the rig so the refrigerator vent is not into the wind or it will force the colder air into that space.

Good luck...if you follow "the fix" it should work with no worries.

[pianotuna]

Hi,

Add a TC-3 thermocube before the light bulb.

[doxiemom11]

Aren't they talking about the outside air temps and operating on propane? We keep our on electric and haven't had any problems.

[skipnchar]

My Dometic works just fine at least into the teens.

[past-MIdirector]

I have a 60 watt bulb in the back and close off the bottom vent when it gets below 32 since we have an ice maker and water line running in the compartment, I read about using a swimming pool noodle to block the vents. When we get below 25 I'll block the middle vent so only one is opened. So far so good. We're having to stay in SE MI till just before Christmas this year so DW can finish her weekly Chemo treatments before we go south.

[WyoTraveler]

Johno02 wrote:
Only problem we have had is if the temp in coach is below 32 degrees, it will not cool the freezer. Found out that to fix, just open refrig, and turn heat on in coach. When refrig gets above 32, it works fine.

Sleeping in an RV at 32 degrees? Been there done that in a tent with an ice chest. I need a furnace and 70 inside.

[Johno02]

Only problem we have had is if the temp in coach is below 32 degrees, it will not cool the freezer. Found out that to fix, just open refrig, and turn heat on in coach. When refrig gets above 32, it works fine.

[WyoTraveler]

camperpaul wrote:
If the temperature inside your RV is below 32°F (0°C), the thermostat in the refrigerator will never call for cooling.

If you are heating the inside of your RV and want to use the 'fridge, you will need to heat the compartment behind it.

I use a Thermocube® and a 60 Watt lamp and block off 2/3 of the louvers on the access panel; I'm good to -20°F (-29°) O.A.T.

Great idea. Don't thnk I will be in my MH at -20 though.:B As a practical matter though most RV parks are closed when you need the heat behind the fridge. I don't run my gererator all night.

[ktmrfs]

camperpaul wrote:
If the temperature inside your RV is below 32°F (0°C), the thermostat in the refrigerator will never call for cooling.

If you are heating the inside of your RV and want to use the 'fridge, you will need to heat the compartment behind it.

I use a Thermocube® and a 60 Watt lamp and block off 2/3 of the louvers on the access panel; I'm good to -20°F (-29°) O.A.T.

we regularly wintertime camp where it gets into the "teens" at night and in the mid 30's in the daytime and I've never noticed the fridge not doing it's job. Keep the trailer at 68-70 in the daytime and set the thermostat for 45F at night.

Haven't had any need to heat the outside fridge access area.

[calamus]

you can buy a thermostat plug in at the farm store I think it turns on at 40 and off at 50 we use it for the heat lamp for our goats.