Water heater / T & P valve problems - Some suggestions pls!

[portscanner]

We got our 2002 Alpenlite 3 years ago now. It has many features we like, especially this one: it is paid for. We have had some minor issues, but nothing more than I would expect from a 12 year old camper.

The problem is, when we got it, I discovered the T&P valve was stuck shut. I could not manually pull on the lever and open it. Knowing the issues that could be caused by it not opening, I decided to replace it. I took a pipe wrench, got the best angle I could, and attempted to unscrew it. After leaning on the wrench for quite a bit, I soon discovered I was not unscrewing it, but I was crushing it. Not much, but you could tell. After a short tirade of an assortment of colorful metaphors, I then discovered the valve could now be opened manually. I decided to apply the old adage - if it aint broke, dont fix it. And it has served faithfully for three years.

Well, it is now leaking. Not much mind you, but it is getting worse and worse. So the question is:

A. Do I go find some plumber that will take it out for me? What happens if it breaks off? I doubt the plumber will take responsibility for a 12 year old P&T valve that is already bent.

B. Should I save the money on the plumber and just replace the water heater in the first place? If so, are there better models out there I should look at? Not really interested in bigger, as its size already serves us well or looking for gas and electric, as there would be the extra work of pulling power to it and the gas model we have works fine now.

Y'alls $0.02 would be appreciated.

[portscanner]

It is a Suburban 6 gallon.

When I first tried tackling this, I spend 2-3 hours on it. And I did do the tighten/loosen routine with no success.

I like your suggestion darsben, but at the current time, I cant let the camper set for a week or so. Right now, it is helping me make money. A weekend out of service, fine. A week wont work. In today's economy, you dont pass up on any work.

Old-biscuit indicated it is glass lined, so we dont want to to use the BFH

Just noted that Camping World has a replacement for $382. I could probably get it swapped out in about an hour. Where it is placed, it is easy to get to the back side to disconnect the wiring and the plumbing......

[darsben]

Believe it or not Spray into the T&P outlet with PB BLASTER. while working the valve open and shut. Let it sit for about a week The PB Blaster will renew the seal and it may stop leaking. It is an on label use of the product

If that does not work then PB BLASTER on the threads and respray for 3 - 4 days then let it sit for a week. Should come out much easier.

[Larryect]

I had to use a good basin wrench to get mine out. My son is a plumber and he said to get a basin wrench with a square shaft and put a crescent on it. I believe it was made by Rigid. Worked for me.

Of course there could be some risk of damaging the water heater, depending on what gives first.

[Old-Biscuit]

If you have a Suburban water heater......steel tank that is glass lined so don't go whacking it with a hammer

If you have an Atwood water heater..tank is aluminum

Either case the threads are rusted and/or galled.
Tightening/loosing helps break bond between threads.

They are not easy to get a good wrench position...sometimes it's just a lot easier to remove some of the components to get them out of the way

[ScottG]

Seems like if your thinking of just replacing the whole thing anyway then there's nothing to lose it forcing it.
FWIW, if a plumber broke it off then they have the plumbing equiv. of an easy out to get the rest out. But, by that time you'll have several hundred dollars into it.

Good luck,
Scott

[popeyemth]

Try rocking back and forth between tightening and removing
Make sure the wrench is in the same plane as the valve and not too high or low an angle
If worse comes to worse and it breaks off one can usually collapse the threads with a good punch
Good Luck, Mike