โMar-20-2016 11:30 AM
โMay-26-2016 10:08 AM
tex wardfan wrote:
I got the leak fixed. It did not require any tools. I realized that the tube coming to the hot water side came in from the side and then 90 degree turn up to the faucet. What was happening was when I was tightening it before it was preloading the pipe to want to untighten the fitting. So what I did was loosened the fitting pushed the pipe a little against the direction that you tighten the fitting then tightened the fitting now when you let go of the pipe it is trying to tighten the fitting instead of loosen it. Its kind of hard to explain it but hopefully you can picture what I'm talking about. Any way the leak is fixed. We just got back from our second trip and it would usually start leaking after 12 hours this time it never leaked.
โMay-26-2016 09:15 AM
โApr-11-2016 05:55 PM
tex wardfan wrote:
And I did exactly what my dealers service manager told me to do, hand tighten it. Sorry I shared my concerns on this site. It wont happen again.
โApr-11-2016 04:20 PM
tex wardfan wrote:
I don't know why you guys are trying to get me to quit rving before I even get started. I'm confident that I can handle it. I guess I just wont ask for anymore suggestions on how to fix anything here. I thought that was what this forum was all about.
โApr-11-2016 04:18 PM
westend wrote:tex wardfan wrote:
I don't know why you guys are trying to get me to quit rving before I even get started. I'm confident that I can handle it. I guess I just wont ask for anymore suggestions on how to fix anything here. I thought that was what this forum was all about.
You were advised on how to deal with it but you didn't do it that way. The leak reappeared and now you want to blame someone else.
If you have a mechanical background, why don't you do this: Disassemble the connection and inspect it. I think what you'll find is a high-impact plastic nut pressuring a sealing washer. The washer seals against the surface of the valve's threaded supply extrusions.
Here's an old plumber's trick for stubborn/leaking fittings: Coat the sealing surfaces with pipe dope compound. Rector Seal is a good product. I wouldn't be afraid to use a tool on the fitting. You don't have to get King Kong about it. Pretend you are tightening a valve cover fastener. The correct tightening torque will compress the washer so the nut is held in position.
Good luck.
โApr-11-2016 03:58 PM
tex wardfan wrote:
I don't know why you guys are trying to get me to quit rving before I even get started. I'm confident that I can handle it. I guess I just wont ask for anymore suggestions on how to fix anything here. I thought that was what this forum was all about.
โApr-11-2016 02:03 PM
โApr-11-2016 01:54 PM
โApr-11-2016 01:41 PM
โApr-11-2016 01:37 PM
Lynnmor wrote:
Hate to tell you this, but if you can't deal with a simple plumbing repair, an RV is something that you don't want.
Towing it back to a dealer, so that some 18 year old kid can mess with it, for each little issue will be a full time job.
โApr-11-2016 01:30 PM
โApr-11-2016 05:35 AM
โApr-11-2016 05:30 AM
mgirardo wrote:
Remove the nut, put some thread tape (aka Teflon tape) on the threads and then put the nut back on. That should hold the nut in place.
-Michael
โApr-11-2016 05:24 AM