โAug-13-2013 08:51 PM
โAug-19-2013 02:07 PM
โAug-14-2013 06:34 PM
cekkk wrote:TucsonJim wrote:
WD, WDH, RA, FA, FEA, TT, wt, FA<, AS, SOL, :@:E
I'm still pretty much a newbie, but my guesses are WD weight distribution, WDH weight distribution hitch, RA rear axle, FA front axle, FEA ?front end axle?, TT travel trailer, wt weight, FA< ??, AS anti-sway, SOL sh...:E
We have a dually and have only had two TTs, both with 1400# on the hitch. Before I had the WDH properly set up, my front end was clearly elevated and steering severely affected. OTOH, the first TT was a TH with the front deck. TW was only around 500 stock, and the F350 pulled it without WD from Chicago to Colorado just fine. I would guess that truck wouldn't need WD until the tongue was seeing over 700, 750#.
But I'm no pro hauler, and the suspension is stock. The early replies made it understandable why few delivery drivers need WD even for the thousand and 1200# TTs.
โAug-14-2013 06:07 PM
TomG2 wrote:
After delivery, the dealers must do something to them to make them sway and bounce, or else why do we see so many people on here asking about fancy hitches, suspension upgrades, etc.?
โAug-14-2013 05:30 PM
chevor wrote:
....snip...........
Well said.
I haul commercially and dont carry a WDH. Rear suspension and hitch on truck has been upgrade to handle the tongue weights of the trailers I pull. Have proper tires for towing makes a huge difference when pulling. A stiff sidewall and solid rubber on the ground a key. I think most confuse sidewall flex on the rear axel on the truck, with a light steering axel and sway.
โAug-14-2013 02:22 PM
TucsonJim wrote:
WD, WDH, RA, FA, FEA, TT, wt, FA<, AS, SOL, :@:E
โAug-14-2013 01:59 PM
โAug-14-2013 01:32 PM
โAug-14-2013 01:28 PM
โAug-14-2013 11:44 AM
mkirsch wrote:
I think the vast majority of RV owners buy them with grandiose plans of camping the summer away, but for whatever reason they just don't.
โAug-14-2013 11:23 AM
goducks10 wrote:WyoTraveler wrote:
Most of the TTs I've seen enroute at gas stations on the hwy don't use WD. However they are commercial drivers with much more experience than the average RVer towing 2 or 3 times a year. They usually have 1 ton PUs, some with duallies. You don't see them towing a 10'000 pound TT with a 3, 000 pound compact vehicle
How do you come up with the average RV'er only tows 2-3 times a year? Maybe we need a poll on how often people tow their RV's.
โAug-14-2013 10:39 AM
โAug-14-2013 10:16 AM
blt2ski wrote:
Reality is, if you get the correct hitch, you do not "NEED" WD to tow a trailer. Nor "SHOULD" you need to have anti sway bars. Now with that said.......it might be nice to have the above bars on a trailer that you tow, but not mandatory from a state law/code reason. RV.NET weight police not with standing.
One should use or may need a WD "IF" you sink the rear end enough that you overload the RA by taking too much off the FA, and/or you remove so much wt off the FA, that steering, FEA is not working correctly. THEN, having a WD is a good thing to put the wt back on to the FA< such that you have proper steering/braking etc on the FA. Many of the pro towers, use heavier suspension trucks, such that a 600-1000 lbs hitch wt will not remove enough wt off the FA to warrant the use of a WD system.
Antisway bars should be used as an absolute last resort. Reality is, you should be able to tow any given trailer with out fishtail sway in ANY condition! One should add an AS system as a safety issue. If you add an AS to stop uncontrolled fishtail sway, if a bar breaks, comes lose in route, or someone steals them, you're SOL on the spot! So best to make sure the trailer you tow is balanced such that it will not sway in an uncontrolled side to side motion. Many ways to do this if load balance does not work. If a trailer sways from the factory, most pro's will return the trailer and tell the factory to fix the alignment or equal so it will not sway.
Marty
โAug-14-2013 10:14 AM
โAug-14-2013 10:01 AM