Weight Distributing Hitch BENT

[DennyCrane]

I started to notice when hitching my trailer that I was not able to get an even number of links on each of the spring bars on my WDH; I might get 6 links on one side, and 8 on the other. Couldn't figure out why. Eventually I realized that the hitch itself is bent (pulled down on the drivers side). I have a picture but I can't figure out how to attach it via my phone. Will try from a computer later.

The hitch came with the trailer when I bought it privately last year. It's very old, but I can't imagine how this would happen. That's what I'm hoping someone here might be able to help me with. I'm happy to go buy a new hitch, but I don't want the same thing to happen again. The hitch is rated for 10,000 lbs with the bars/5,000 without. My Springdale trailer weighs 4,300 lbs dry/6,500 loaded. I'm towing with a 2011 Chevy Tahoe 5.3L with a 1" lift in the front and airbags in the rear. I recently installed a Rease anti-sway bar.

Could inflating the air bags after the hitch/bars are on have caused something like this? A bad install of the sway bar? Too much tongue weight? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[MitchF150]

The only time I remove my WD bars is when I park at home.. I have to navigate a steep driveway and basically jack the trailer into it's position..

I have just your basic Eaz-Lift WD bar and chain setup and always take them off before I park it at home.

Backing into the sites I go to are usually straight and level, so no need to remove anything. I don't use a friction 'sway' thing, so no worries there..

Anyway, if I left my WD bars set and backed up my home storage spot, I would see that kind of damage to my hitch too for sure...

Just gotta know what you are doing and where you are going and determine your choices from there.. No one has the same parking circumstances as the other, so we all have to adjust accordingly.

Good luck!

Mitch

[myredracer]

The alleged "expert" at etrailer is wrong on the Reese dual cam 66084 WDH. Doesn't matter if you are moving forward or backing up, all the happens is the "crooks" in the ends of the bars ride up on the cams. There is friction between the bar ends and the cams which is part of how it works but the direction of movement has zero impact.

I would hate having to remove the spring bars before backing up and would mean blocking the road in a CG while you do that.

I have been backing up with our Reese DC for years. It can be quite noisy when going forward or reversing when doing tight turns and there'll be LOUD pop/bang sounds. Can be startling to people nearby! 🙂

[Lynnmor]

Retired JSO wrote:

Lynnmor wrote:

Retired JSO wrote:
Some hitches require the weight distribution bars to be removed while backing up at severe angles.

It is usually suggested that friction sway bars be removed, never heard of that for the weight distribution bars.

The people who sell them say it’s a good idea.
E-Trailer


Should Spring Bars Be Removed when Backing Up with a Weight Distribution System

Question:
Is there any issues with backing-up and making sharp cuts with weight distribution sway control RP66084 installed
asked by: Don D
Expert Reply:
With any weight distribution system you will want to remove the spring bars every time you encounter any tight maneuvering situation. So if you were reversing your trailer and the trailer did not swing too far to one side or the other you should be fine, but I still would recommend you disconnect the bars under most normal reversing circumstances just to be safe.

expert reply by: Jameson C
Jameson C
ASK THE EXPERTS A QUESTION >>

The RP66084 is a dual cam type WDH, not a friction sway control. There is nothing in the manufacturers instructions about removing spring bars prior to backing up.

[Retired_JSO]

Lynnmor wrote:

Retired JSO wrote:
Some hitches require the weight distribution bars to be removed while backing up at severe angles.

It is usually suggested that friction sway bars be removed, never heard of that for the weight distribution bars.

The people who sell them say it’s a good idea.
E-Trailer


Should Spring Bars Be Removed when Backing Up with a Weight Distribution System

Question:
Is there any issues with backing-up and making sharp cuts with weight distribution sway control RP66084 installed
asked by: Don D
Expert Reply:
With any weight distribution system you will want to remove the spring bars every time you encounter any tight maneuvering situation. So if you were reversing your trailer and the trailer did not swing too far to one side or the other you should be fine, but I still would recommend you disconnect the bars under most normal reversing circumstances just to be safe.

expert reply by: Jameson C
Jameson C
ASK THE EXPERTS A QUESTION >>

[DennyCrane]

Just to close the loop on this, I had my appointment at the hitch shop this morning and had a a Curt Trutrack Trunnion Bar System with built in sway control installed. It was only a short trip home, but there was absolutely no bounce at all. So far, so good.

Thanks for all your input. The tech didn't have much more to offer as far as reasons for the bent hitch than you guys already did. Really appreciate the help.

Cheers

[Lynnmor]

DennyCrane wrote:


Am I over thinking it?

Yes.

The shop will look at the same charts that are available to you. Use the correct hitch per the chart, you already know to not go heavier or lighter than specified. Hitches have simple instructions and videos are available online.

[DennyCrane]

Yes, I'm in Cloverdale. Appointment with a hitch shop in Langley. I also have Nexus and a US mailbox in Blaine. Just got back from 11 days down the Oregon coast.

My reasons for the hitch shop are:
-to ensure I'm getting the properly rated hitch. I've read that it's not good to overdo it or underdo it. I assumed to be conservative I'd get a higher rated hitch than I needed, but I've read lots of conflicting info online.
-to have them install the brackets on the trailer. Unless I can use my old brackets with the new hitch? I've heard they have to be adjusted exact.

Am I over thinking it?

[myredracer]

DennyCrane wrote:
Thanks. I have an appointment at a hitch shop on July 13th. They've quoted Round Bar for $470 + tax; Trunnion for $570 + tax; and Internal Sway starting at $720 + tax (Canadian). I may just consider the built in sway for that reason. Or I may just stop using sway control.

I see you're over in Surrey. We're in Langley. We have a mailbox in Blaine and buy stuff regularly on the internet and get it shipped there. BIG savings that way. Could check ebay, Amazon and some of the RV parts vendors. The Pac hwy truck crossing is close by and easy to cross. We have Nexus passes and avoid the regular lineups but we camp mostly in the US.

Another option is Cl. For ex., there's a WDH like yours, less snap-up brackets in Surrey for $75 and a 4 pt Equal-i-zer for $525. No idea if ratings work for you tho. Also a few choices on FB marketplace.

Integral sway control would be a good upgrade along with trunnion bars. Not sure why you'd need to go to a hitch shop?

[DennyCrane]

Thanks. I have an appointment at a hitch shop on July 13th. They've quoted Round Bar for $470 + tax; Trunnion for $570 + tax; and Internal Sway starting at $720 + tax (Canadian). I may just consider the built in sway for that reason. Or I may just stop using sway control.

[TKW]

The WDH in pictures looks flimsy comparing to those with built-in anti sway feature, e.g. Equal-i-zer or Reese Dual Cam. If you walk around some CG and you'll see what I meant. The hitch head of the makes I mentioned are made from heavy castings, not fabricated mild steel like the one you have.

If I were you, I'd upgrade to one of these WDH with built-in anti-sway control. I have used both of them and the towing experience is night & day. Most importantly, you don't have to unhook the anti-sway bar to back up.

[DennyCrane]

Lynnmor wrote:

DennyCrane wrote:

newman fulltimer wrote:
You had the anti sway to tight took a sharp right turn and twisted the ball on the anti sway

Wow, that's crazy how it could bend the metal plate like that. How tight is too tight? I usually spin it until it stops spinning easily, and then give it maybe half of another turn. I guess I'll have to remove it before any sharp turn (previously I had just read that it was important for backing up).

You need to read the instructions. You tighten the handle, it only needs to be tight enough that it won't move. You adjust the amount of friction control with the bolt and then leave it alone after it is adjusted properly. There is no need to need to remove it unless backing up at a sharp angle.

I do believe that the vast majority of the friction type bars are never adjusted or used properly.

I read them thoroughly; several times. They were not very detailed at all. Acxording to what I read the bolt was only if you needed more friction. What you're saying makes sense though.

[JRscooby]

pitch wrote:

Boomerweps wrote:
I'm wondering if you might straighten that out (mostly) with the ball removed and using a large hydraulic press. At least to a useable state.

No way would I attempt to fix that.
You have a light trailer, you do not need the Cadillac of WDH's
Harbor Freight has a 10k for $209.00

If it was mine I would of fixed it in less time than it would take me to type the OP...
Good to know your limits.

[pitch]

Boomerweps wrote:
I'm wondering if you might straighten that out (mostly) with the ball removed and using a large hydraulic press. At least to a useable state.

No way would I attempt to fix that.
You have a light trailer, you do not need the Cadillac of WDH's
Harbor Freight has a 10k for $209.00

[Lynnmor]

DennyCrane wrote:

newman fulltimer wrote:
You had the anti sway to tight took a sharp right turn and twisted the ball on the anti sway

Wow, that's crazy how it could bend the metal plate like that. How tight is too tight? I usually spin it until it stops spinning easily, and then give it maybe half of another turn. I guess I'll have to remove it before any sharp turn (previously I had just read that it was important for backing up).

You need to read the instructions. You tighten the handle, it only needs to be tight enough that it won't move. You adjust the amount of friction control with the bolt and then leave it alone after it is adjusted properly. There is no need to need to remove it unless backing up at a sharp angle.

I do believe that the vast majority of the friction type bars are never adjusted or used properly.