winterizing issue

[DE88ROX]

Trying to winterize my trailer. As you can see in the pic, the in and out valves to water heater are turned off. Bypass valve is turned on.
So why is my water heater filling up with anti-freeze.

This is my 3rd winter with the trailer so I've done it before and had no issues. The white Pex valves in the pic were new last spring. Installed at the dealer because the cheap plastic/brass ones broke.

Any insight into this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

[DE88ROX]

edit. double post

[DE88ROX]

kennethwooster wrote:
We winterized a few days ago, and I had antifreeze in hot water heater. It's hard getting to back of hot water heater. I felt their were 3 valves to turn, but could only find 2. Went back and worked at it harder and found the 3rd one. got it turned and then things were fine. Look some more and you will probably find one more

All 3 valves are next to each other. I have winterized this unit before with no issues.

[kennethwooster]

We winterized a few days ago, and I had antifreeze in hot water heater. It's hard getting to back of hot water heater. I felt their were 3 valves to turn, but could only find 2. Went back and worked at it harder and found the 3rd one. got it turned and then things were fine. Look some more and you will probably find one more

[DE88ROX]

Raymon wrote:

Harvard wrote:
Your hot water lines/taps will flow antifreeze via the bypass line/valve. It is not coming from the tank, is it?

The OP stated "So why is my water heater filling up with anti-freeze."
He also said this is the 3rd year he has winterized the unit although this year there are new valves.

Ray

No, I was pumping directly from the jugs.

Just picked up unit yesterday after dropping it off 4 weeks ago. They replaced all the valves. in/out and bypass. The inner workings of the in/out valves wouldn't turn, even though the handle did. they obviously broke. I tried removing the valves myself, loosened the connectors but couldn't break them free. They would just spin in place. Not sure if you need a tool for the PEX for doing that or not. Got fed up with dealing with it and just took it in. I was in no hurry to get it back, since im done with camping anyway

So now, all I need to do is pick up some antifreeze and a "for sale" sign and im good to go. Tired of dealing with this POS.

[therebynightfal]

Thanks to the previous three posts.

[Raymon]

Harvard wrote:
Your hot water lines/taps will flow antifreeze via the bypass line/valve. It is not coming from the tank, is it?

The OP stated "So why is my water heater filling up with anti-freeze."
He also said this is the 3rd year he has winterized the unit although this year there are new valves.

Ray

[oh_boy]

I blow my lines out at 40 psi. Never had an issue. I also run A/F and then blow it out also. Empty the filters, and then some down each drain p trap. Never leave A/F in the lines. I also leave the taps open.
We can get some cold snaps in Canada in Oct. We go south and use bottles of water first 3 days if it is cold then flush and charge the whole system.

[98Salem25BH]

therebynightfall wrote:
Can anyone tell me....

Firstly I have isolated the hot water tank.

As I do not have a suction hose fitted for directly adding RV antifreeze from inside the RV at the water pump, I am going to add it thru the fresh water tank fill hole from the outside so....how many gallons will my travel trailer need added into the fresh water tank...before my pump can pull it thru?

This question is probably best answered by persons who prepare their RV for winter the same way as I plan to.

I do not have the facility to blow high pressure air thru the lines.

The RV is stored away from my residence.

Hi, been lurking here and registered just so I can answer your question 😉

I just winterized the plumbing the same way you are intending - drain fresh water tank, fill with some AF, run through all the plumbing.

As for the amount of excess AF you need in the bottom of your FW tank, depends on the shape of the tank and location of the supply line.

In my 5th wheel, the supply line comes off the side of the tank, and leaves about a half inch of water in the bottom when level, which is approximately a gallon or so based on the dimensions of the tank (its a rectangular 30G tank about 20"x30").

This is the first year I've owned this (or any) RV, but I have a pretty good handle on how everything works in it. My big concern with this method of winterizing is that the tank drain is also on the side of tank, thus I can never get the very last gallon or so of water out, meaning that the AF I put in is getting diluted and glycol doesn't work properly if it gets diluted much.

I ended up adding one 2.5G jug of AF to the tank and it was enough to fill the lines in my small 5th wheel (no outdoor shower). That was with HW tank bypassed of course. Just as the pink was coming out the toilet the pump started sucking air. I just hope it didn't get overdiluted, and I hope I'm able to flush most of it out in the spring.

Next year I'm definitely buying the winterization valve kit for the pump.

[therebynightfal]

Can anyone tell me....

Firstly I have isolated the hot water tank.

As I do not have a suction hose fitted for directly adding RV antifreeze from inside the RV at the water pump, I am going to add it thru the fresh water tank fill hole from the outside so....how many gallons will my travel trailer need added into the fresh water tank...before my pump can pull it thru?

This question is probably best answered by persons who prepare their RV for winter the same way as I plan to.

I do not have the facility to blow high pressure air thru the lines.

The RV is stored away from my residence.

[DE88ROX]

Dropped the trailer off today to have them look at it. They said all my valves are in the right position. The PEX style valves in the pic are replacement parts the dealer on. So we'll see what they say. The service advisors wife works for my wife. He usually cuts me pretty good deals and wavs a lot of misc fees other might have to pay for.

[Dutch_12078]

DE88ROX wrote:

Dutch_12078 wrote:

DE88ROX wrote:
I went out and looked. The bottom valve directional arrow is pointing towards the water heater and the top is pointing away. From the diagrams i have seen that is correct.

The top valve is the problem then, since the water pressure is coming from the bypass line TOWARDS the heater, and the valve is letting it by. The valve will seal in one direction only when turned off.

You might be on to something. Think im going to have to take it in.

The way that top valve is installed, it would work fine as a hot water shut off, since the pressure would be coming from the tank. For the bypass to work though, it needs to be installed the other way around. Or better yet, have them use Sharkbite, Watts, SeaTech, or some other brand valve that's not directional.

[RCMAN46]

Typically a single flow valve turns off in clockwise handle turn. But with the Chinese making almost everything today then all bets are off.

As for the antifreeze! I would not chance not using it.

If there is any antifreeze taste after you flush and sanitize the system in the spring then it is obvious the flush and sanitize was not complete.

If there was any antifreeze left there could also be some bacteria laden water left in the system.

[DE88ROX]

Dutch_12078 wrote:

DE88ROX wrote:
I went out and looked. The bottom valve directional arrow is pointing towards the water heater and the top is pointing away. From the diagrams i have seen that is correct.

The top valve is the problem then, since the water pressure is coming from the bypass line TOWARDS the heater, and the valve is letting it by. The valve will seal in one direction only when turned off.

You might be on to something. Think im going to have to take it in. Im really tired of dealing with it and getting frustrated with this whole travel trailer thing.. Thought it was suppose to make camping a little easier. It hasnt. It seems there is always an issue with this thing. I have a stack of service orders an inch thick and its only 3 years old. Had a PUP for 17 years and it only went in for service twice, Once due to a recall on the fridge and the other for a new awning.

Seriously thinking about just selling it and be done with this whole camping game. Save a lot of money that way.

Lesson lerned here? NEVER BUY A STARCRAFT.

[sammytoo]

old guy wrote:
I always cringe when some says just blow out the lines and forget the anti freeze. that might work in lawn sprinklers systems but when I did that on my first TT, I had leaks I had to fix before I could go camping the first time after that. Now I blow out the lines and use anti freeze. I only had to get burned once to learn my lesson. never lost a fitting again.

X2
The pex plumbing is a little more forgiving and will stretch a little but if you ever had to replace a copper system you would never rely on blowing it out again.