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A/C works at night only

TravelinDog
Explorer
Explorer
This may have already been covered somewhere so forgive me if it has.
My Coleman a/c which is 21 years old with very little use works great at night but when the temp is over 100 degrees in the daytime it blows cold for a few minutes then the compressor shuts of for a few minutes then come back on and starts blowing cold again.
It will do this over and over and never cool trailer down. I was thinking perhaps it is low on freon but I read that they are a closed and sealed system.
Could an rv tech check it if I took the unit to him?
Just say no to the payload police :C
24 REPLIES 24

RLS7201
Explorer
Explorer
marcsbigfoot20b27 wrote:
Yup my guess is dirty or low airflow at the condenser.


Exzactly, all the classic symptoms of a dirty condenser coil.

Richard
95 Bounder 32H F53 460
2013 CRV Toad
2 Segways in Toad
First brake job
1941 Hudson

marcsbigfoot20b
Explorer
Explorer
Yup my guess is dirty or low airflow at the condenser.

ksg5000
Explorer
Explorer
The std procedures I use when diagnosing my 26 year old Coleman air conditioner start with 1) check voltage 2) clean condenser and evaporator fins, clean filters, and visually inspect the capacitors. Older A/C tend to need more power to start up and many (including me) eventually add a hard start capacitor. Since your air conditioner seems to work fine at night it's likely that low voltage is the culprit - but cleaning the condenser and evaporator and filter will help regardless.
Kevin

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Re Voltage (Plugged into house so I assume...) NEVER ASSUME. remember how to spell that word by puting a space either side of the letter U.

Measure.

I was at 105 and having all sorts of issues. No if you want to know how bad that was.. 105 on the OUTPUT side of a HUGHES autoformer.. We are well under 100 on the park side of that big heavy box.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
2oldman wrote:
TravelinDog wrote:
Trailer is plugged into the house so I'm assuming it has the full 120 volts.
Plugged in how.. extension cord?
And is it a dedicated 30 amp circuit?

Standard 5-15 outdoor outlet can have significant voltage drop depending on conditions.

Easy to just put on the air and check voltage before it quits. No sense in slowly damaging the new unit.

Walaby
Explorer II
Explorer II
If it works at night, but not during the day, not sure it would be a voltage problem, since he's plugged in "at the house". Now, if at a camapground, and volage usage is higher during the day, that might make more sense.

But, I do agree, it would make sense to check it before replacing unit, rather than assuming. Simple enough of a check.

Mike
Im Mike Willoughby, and I approve this message.
2017 Ram 3500 CTD (aka FRAM)
2019 GrandDesign Reflection 367BHS

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
Apparently he is going to replace the AC and not even check the voltage at the unit. Whatever.

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
TravelinDog wrote:
Trailer is plugged into the house so I'm assuming it has the full 120 volts.
Plugged in how.. extension cord?
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
dougrainer wrote:
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
You mean to tell me the expansion valve on these units is not serviceable?


EVERYTHING on the AC is serviceable. Just not cost effective. Especially a 21 year old unit. Its a sealed system. By the time you install a line tap and drain/recover the Freon 22, then replace any Freon part, and evacuate and recharge, just not cost effective. Plus Freon depending on where you get it(now it is $75 lb) and just takes 1 lb. Doug


Clear and concise. Thank you. The folks who installed a new ND compressor, condenser expansion valve and evaporator on my toad, did something wrong and left it doing 50-50 pump cycles @ 15 seconds.

A year later it starts and runs for hours without fault. Cold as can be. The only thing I could come up with is that they overfilled the system which leaked down to permissible level.

azrving
Explorer
Explorer
I backed my truck up to the RV and put a rope around the AC in it's box and pulled it up long 2x4's. Also remove your ac vent covers to see if the tape on the ducts and hoses has deteriorated allowing cool air into the ceiling cavity

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
RV roof AC units do not have a pressure safety switch. If you lose coolant the compressor will just run. Doug

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
You mean to tell me the expansion valve on these units is not serviceable?


EVERYTHING on the AC is serviceable. Just not cost effective. Especially a 21 year old unit. Its a sealed system. By the time you install a line tap and drain/recover the Freon 22, then replace any Freon part, and evacuate and recharge, just not cost effective. Plus Freon depending on where you get it(now it is $75 lb) and just takes 1 lb. Doug

Bill_Satellite
Explorer II
Explorer II
Be very careful with ladders as these things are VERY heavy (80+ Lbs.). If you can keep the ladders close and add a third person on the roof pulling with rope, the 2 of you can likely slide it along safely and up to the roof. Good luck.
What I post is my 2 cents and nothing more. Please don't read anything into my post that's not there. If you disagree, that's OK.
Can't we all just get along?

newman_fulltime
Explorer
Explorer
Compressor is overheating and doing as should with the overheat switch.
You can build a water mister system and use it to spray the exhaust coils and lower compressor temps to limp the ac along