Bad Dometic RM1350 - Repair or replace

[Navychop]

We only run it on 120 and maybe 1-2 weekends a month. It's not keeping things cold. It cycles up into the 50s in the lower part. Freezer still seems to work ok. Was replaced under warranty some years back. After that, I installed a 12v fan to blow air over the top "coils." Just found repair manual so will look into it. BTW we don't take it on the road though we might do so again one day.

Ideas?

Is there a 120v only replacement out there that would fit? And presumably be cheaper and more reliable.

[Denny___Jami]

westend wrote:

Denny & Jami wrote:

westend wrote:
All residential refrigerators I've moved have removable doors.

Yes but the big ones will not fit through the door.

Denny

Would that be countertop depth? Actually, I don't know how wide a standard RV door is. I know mine is narrow.

Most trailers have something in the way so the larger refrigerators can't be turned after going through the door. Most all refrigerators are a standard depth it's the width that counts, also the RV refigerators aren't as deep as residential units so the residential with set out in the room a few inches in most cases.

Denny

[westend]

Denny & Jami wrote:

westend wrote:
All residential refrigerators I've moved have removable doors.

Yes but the big ones will not fit through the door.

Denny

Would that be countertop depth? Actually, I don't know how wide a standard RV door is. I know mine is narrow.

[Denny___Jami]

westend wrote:
All residential refrigerators I've moved have removable doors.

Yes but the big ones will not fit through the door.

Denny

[Denny___Jami]

Navychop wrote:
Fins, no coil.

I should have said cold plate with the fins attached, the coils are behind the plate.

Denny

[YC_1]

Is your vent tube cracked? If it is, warm air will enter.

If the refer is in a slide, you may have lost a fan or control of them or it.

[westend]

All residential refrigerators I've moved have removable doors.

[Navychop]

Fins, no coil.

[Denny___Jami]

That number is what they call a 4door similar to a side by side in residential and it is big. The people we know that have installed a residential brought it in through a window.

Does your lower box coil frost all the way to the end of the coil, if so the cooling part is working. I would check the gaskets and make sure they good and the doors are closing all the way. RV refrigerators don't like the door to be faned, they are very slow to recover.

Denny

[Navychop]

It's a double door, but the replacement must have come thru the door. But that is something to consider for sure.

I think a conventional apartment fridge might take a bit of woodwork, actually be smaller and not look so good. But that might be the way to go anyway. E$pecially.

We will be at the RV show in Hershey PA this Wednesday and will look around.

Thanks for the answers and I'd love more.

BTW, there is no sharing of temps between top and bottom. I'd so hoped for a simple bad fan there. Condenser fins in bottom sweat a lot. Top tends to frost over on the back wall.

[RoyB]

Be sure your new replacement fridge will go through your narrow entry door...

Have heard a few horror stories on how to get a new fridge into the RV...

Apparently in some cases the OEM fridges were installed before the walls went up haha...

Roy Ken

[the_bear_II]

A lot of RV'ers are replacing the frig with a residential type. Measure yours to see what will fit in the space without a lot of modification. Usually an apartment size will work.

Some RV supply stores or service centers will test your control board to see if it's gone bad. It is easy to remove the board and take it for testing.

[Diesel_Camper]

Seems like you might want to consider changing to a residential compressor refrigerator that will fit in the same hole as your old RV fridge.