Can I turn the Converter off?

[whs9841]

When we tailgate at football games, we dry camp. We have two Honda 2000's that we run in parallel to power our fifth wheel. I have a 15000 BTU A/C and a 13500 BTU A/C. I've tried unsuccessfully to get both A/C's running at the same time, and frankly, I'm not sure I'll ever get them running together on my generators.

I've always been good about keeping everything turned off when trying to run both A/C's. However, just the other day I saw that my Converter can draw up to 5 Amps. I know the Converter is used to convert 120V to 12V. I'm wondering if I can turn the Converter off at my circuit board (it has it's own circuit) and then try to run both A/C's. Will turning the Converter off just make all of my 12V electronics unavailable? Are there any other repurcussions? My goal is to make sure everything is turned off and blast both A/C's for the first hour or two when we get to our tailgating spot. I'm hoping this will cool it down enough so we can go back to one A/C for the evening and turn the Converter back on so we can run our 12V electronics.

[whs9841]

Jim - that's interesting. Would I run the 15K for about 10 minutes, switch it to fan only, then turn on the 13.5K? Let it run for 10 minutes, switch it to fan only, then turn the 15K back to full on? Is that the type of approach you are talking about?

I'm looking at building a small evap cooler that will run on 12V. It won't help a lot, but it won't hurt.

As you mentioned, a larger generator (or set of generators) is the answer. A big Eu6500i is the answer, but those things are so heavy they aren't very portable.

[JiminDenver]

The compressor comes on and off in normal operation, once the evaporator is cold enough only the fan runs until it warms and the compressor starts again. You would be running one compressor until it shuts off and then turning it to fan to keep it from cycling until the other unit is cold. It would be a pain but doable.

A second option would be a box fan moving the air away from the 15K unit. It's compressor would run more and may at least keep you comfortable.

In the end I think a larger generator or set of generators is called for. A pair of 2000s can't be quiet pushing a 15k unit so maybe a larger Champion wouldn't be that big of a difference. The big Honda inverter would be nice if you could swing it.

[whs9841]

mlts22 - I'm considering the third eu2000i and the three way parallel kit. I thought I'd try this option first to see what kind of results I got.

Jim - I thought about that option. However, is the fan just re-circulating interior air? I have been able to run one A/C and just the fan on the other A/C, but I don't remember it providing much benefit. Although I may have quit too soon. 🙂

[wa8yxm]

You can try turning the converter off.. But frankly.. I seriously doubt you will get both A/Cs to run at the same time with those generators.

now if you had 3,000's... that might be different.

[bartlettj]

Some converters share a breaker with some of the outlets depending on how your trailer is wired. Mine was shared with the outlet that runs the TV. I ended up buying another breaker and splitting the converter off to its own.

[TomG2]

Be aware that once you turn the converter off for even a couple of hours that it will take many amps when it is first restarted, as the batteries will need a good charge. In other words, if you do get the AC's working you will not want to turn the converter back on until you are done with at least one of the AC units. Try ktmrfs's suggestion it "may" work. One factor in your favor is that you will be at lower elevation in the San Antonio area.

[mlts22]

The cheapest real solution would be going with a Honda EU6500is (big, but quiet.) This will handle the locked rotor amps from the A/C units if both decide to fire off at the same time. Alternatively, the Yamaha 6300 iSDE or maybe the 4500iSE.

An alternative would be to buy another Honda eu2000i and a three way parallel kit from Wise Sales for ~300 bones.

[JiminDenver]

Turning off the converter had a huge impact on the ability of our Champ to run a single 13.5 AC at high altitude. Not enough that it would run two at sea level but enough that I didn't replace it. I wasn't comfortable running the Champ on the ragged edge, risking under powering the AC as it guzzled gas.

You could always go back and forth with the ACs by turning one on until it was blowing cold, leave that fan on and start the second AC. By leaving the fans on but alternating the compressors it might work although a PITA.

[rvten]

JnJnKatiebug wrote:

rvten wrote:
With converter on. Your 12 volt outlets get an even steady power flow. With the converter off. Your 12 volts with flux up/down as gens surge to maintain even power.

With the converter off, the generator will have no effect on the 12v outlets. They work from the batteries.

Correct I was kinking the other way. Converter on but batts disconnecte.
Sean's to me. If having the converter on draws to much power. You have to much on at one time. Maybe turn the fridge on propane and save some that way. But that may cost some of you too much $$.

[schlep1967]

Here is a thought. Stop an hour from your destination. Fire up the generators and turn on one A/C. With the door remaining closed and the slides in it should cool the smaller space pretty well. When you get there the camper will already have a very good start on cooling the interior.

[ktmrfs]

RJsfishin wrote:

whs9841 wrote:
RJ, so you're saying this isn't going to work? I just want to make sure I understand you clearly. 🙂

I will tell you this, I have several friends and none can run their 1300's on their EU 2000.No way is a 1500btu going to run.

There are a few 13's that will run at sea level, but they won't run at any kind of elevation.

there seems to be a noticeable difference between AC brands as to how well they run on a honda 2000. Colemans seem to have the most trouble, even with a soft start cap added, while quite a few folks with the dometic or carrier units are pretty succesful running the 13.5K units at 3,000ft and high temps.

The other thing is that some of the newer "high efficiency" 13.5 and 15K units have considerably less running current and locked rotor amps than older units.

so, until you try, you won't know the results.

However, I will say even if it does work, it's on the "barely" side of working, not much extra margin.

[RJsfishin]

whs9841 wrote:
RJ, so you're saying this isn't going to work? I just want to make sure I understand you clearly. 🙂

I will tell you this, I have several friends and none can run their 1300's on their EU 2000.No way is a 1500btu going to run.

There are a few 13's that will run at sea level, but they won't run at any kind of elevation.

[JnJnKatiebug]

rvten wrote:
With converter on. Your 12 volt outlets get an even steady power flow. With the converter off. Your 12 volts with flux up/down as gens surge to maintain even power.

With the converter off, the generator will have no effect on the 12v outlets. They work from the batteries.

[whs9841]

RJ, so you're saying this isn't going to work? I just want to make sure I understand you clearly. 🙂