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Elect Brake Problem

bkick
Explorer
Explorer
I found that only one brake works when putting brakes on by pushing the brake pedal. All brakes work if I push the bar on controller. Have new controller and have checked all magnets, replaced one that was grease coated due to seal failure. Test light barley lights when brakes are applied. Found on broken wire truck side of connecter, repaired but make no difference.

Any ideas
Bkick
16 REPLIES 16

westend
Explorer
Explorer
I found where one of the neutral wires and the bright blue electric brake wire had been rubbed bare going thru a hole in the aluminum frame.

Bingo! :B
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

64thunderbolt
Explorer II
Explorer II
if they work with the bar it is not in the wiring, period. Low brake amps with the pedal could be weak pucks. My Genesis will not put much on the readout when not moving due to the inertia device. I tow in the mtns mostly and see all different readings depending on grade and how much pedal pressure.
Glen
04 Tail gator XT 34' 5th wheel garage model
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99 F350 CC DRW 7.3 ais intake, adrenaline hpop, JW valve body,
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2011 RZR 900xp

bkick
Explorer
Explorer
I found where one of the neutral wires and the bright blue electric brake wire had been rubbed bare going thru a hole in the aluminum frame. Not really bad but enough to show an ach spot. I Was checking voltage at both ends and kept getting a different reading. Pulled the plastic under belly material and found the problem.

It is funny now that I repaired the wires the one wheel does not work by the pedal unless moving any more. Boy, do I love electric brakes!

Thanks for the advice.
Bkick

bkick
Explorer
Explorer
When I have trailer on jacks, the drivers side rear brakes works by just spinning the tire, the rest do not work unless the bar on the controller is pushed. Haven also tried pulling and only that one brake is working. Checked power coming out of truck connection for the electric brakes and it barley will light bulb in circuit tester. Even tried another controller, same thing.
Bkick

riggsp
Explorer
Explorer
If you have electric brakes, pumping the brake pedal does nothing except energize the magnet and make it stick to the inside of the drum...turn the adjuster until the wheel locks (can't turn it by hand), that centers the shoes, then backed the adjuster off until the brakes drag slightly (count the number of clicks you move the adjuster), then adjust the others the same way.

brulaz
Explorer
Explorer
bkick wrote:

...
Did the same adjustment to the front axle, does not work using brake pedal. Had wife push bar on controller and all brakes locked up.
...


With inertial controllers, pushing the brake pedal will have no effect if you are not moving.

Even with my Ford's built-in controller, there will be little voltage applied to the trailer brakes by the pedal when not moving.

The only sure way to activate the trailer brakes when not moving is by pushing the bar on the controller or pulling the plug on the run-away switch.

EDIT: oops, I see RoyKen has already said this.
2014 ORV Timber Ridge 240RKS,8500#,1250# tongue,44K miles
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RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
I have to rotate my trailer wheel an half turn when jacked up to activate the electric brake magnet PADS on my trailer.

Some brake magnets produce a tone when activated. Some folks will hold their camping compass up close to the wheel and it will deflect when brakes are activated.

If you have a clamp on Sears AMPMETER you should read 3amps DC CURRENT on each brake lead when electric brakes are applied.

Also my newer 2010 F150 Truck that has built-in OEM brake controller will not send braking voltage to the trailer using the brake pedal unless the truck is moving down the road at least 10MPH. The slider manual switch is only way to lock up my electric brakes when sitting still.

Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
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BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
Moved to Tech Issues forum from DIY.
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
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Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine

bkick
Explorer
Explorer
While pulling trailer to park in front of the garage to check wheel bearings as I stopped to back up I noticed the drivers side rear tire locked up when I stopped. Jacked trailer up, pulled all four tires and hubs. Found passenger side rear seal had leaked and brakes coated in grease. Replaced both rear brakes and magnets. Hooked truck to trailer, set the controller (10 month old Primus IQ) Started adjusting the brakes on the drivers side rear. Had wife pump the brakes to help set them as I adjusted. Worked great, went to the other rear wheel, did same adjustment. Brake did not work, ok, maybe broken wire inside axle, ran jumper from working wheel to opposite side, nothing again. Checked current with a circuit tester, light is dim on non-working side. Did the same adjustment to the front axle, does not work using brake pedal. Had wife push bar on controller and all brakes locked up. Am going t0 try checking entire wiring from controller to brakes today.
All help will be put to good use.

Bkick
Bkick

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
Which brake controller are you using?

Voltage output via brake pedal is varied based on how hard you brake.
Voltage output via manual lever allows full voltage

Corrosion, bad connections, wiring scheme, magnet condition, brake adjustment all affect how/what works when controller output voltage is applied (varied/full voltage).

Need to check voltage at truck 7 pin receptacle and then at each brake connection to pin point where your issue is.

Also when was the last time you adjusted the brakes of trailer?

And how did you find that only one brake was working when pushing truck brake pedal......explain your testing :H
Is it time for your medication or mine?


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ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
Bob/Olallawa wrote:
ScottG wrote:
That's not possible. No matter how you actuate the trailer brakes the energy goes down the same single wire into the trailer where it's sent to each wheel. So using the brake pedal or using the bar does the same thing and there's no way one can actuate select wheels.


In a perfect world that might be true. How much power is he sending down the wire and what shape are the plugs and trailer wiring.


True but there's nothing in the trailer wiring that could disseminate between pressing the brake pedal and using the bar on the controller to cause different wheels to brake.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
Take a look underneath and see if a wire has chafed. This is especially problematic with series wired brake systems where the brake wires are led through an axle or not secured correctly. If you really want to get the power to each brake, rewire the brakes in a Star configuration, two wires from each wheel led to a junction terminal on the tongue and your primary brake wire from the umbilical connected to those individual supply wires. This will get more juice to each brake assembly and is easier to diagnose a brake problem if you have one.

Good luck with the brakes.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

Bob_Olallawa
Explorer
Explorer
ScottG wrote:
That's not possible. No matter how you actuate the trailer brakes the energy goes down the same single wire into the trailer where it's sent to each wheel. So using the brake pedal or using the bar does the same thing and there's no way one can actuate select wheels.


In a perfect world that might be true. How much power is he sending down the wire and what shape are the plugs and trailer wiring.
Welcome to my home, that door you just broke down was there for your protection not mine.

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
That's not possible. No matter how you actuate the trailer brakes the energy goes down the same single wire into the trailer where it's sent to each wheel. So using the brake pedal or using the bar does the same thing and there's no way one can actuate select wheels.