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Fluorescent to LED conversion

BurbMan
Explorer II
Explorer II
I have 2 of these fluorescent fixtures in the Lance, they work great and give off lots of light but not really very energy efficient when boondocking. I looked at swapping in LED bulbs in place of the T15s but the bulbs were pretty expensive.

After doing some reading and research I decided to re-make the fixtures with LED strip lights. I found this 5 meter light strip for $12 on Amazon, and got a bag of solderless connectors. This light strip has defined cut points at every 3rd LED so you can make any custom length. The strip is also backed 3M adhesive tape so it's peel-n-stick.

I drilled out the pop rivets holding in the bulb holders and ballast and got down to the bare fixture frame. I cut the LED strip into approx 15" sections and used 4 strips per fixture.



The LEDs are covered in a rubbery plastic to make them waterproof, so you just need to clean off one end of each strip and clip on a connector. Wire to 12v and done.



Lights are slightly brighter than the fluorescents and not as affected by the cold weather. All in all was a very easy and inexpensive upgrade!
30 REPLIES 30

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
wopachop wrote:
Those suckers are gonna run really hot when your converter goes into 14v mode.


In about 5 years of running LED's I never noticed that... There are 2 or 3 different LED designs. one has a regulator and 12, 14, even 24 volts. all the same to those leds. Now around 9 volts they start to dim a bit.. Others are picker. Most "12 volt" stuff is designed for closer to 14 just in case. ever measure the output of a "Wall wart" almost always hotter than labeled.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

JimBollman
Explorer
Explorer
I decided not to spend the time creating a FrankinFixture and bought these replacement LED bulbs, just rewire to remove ballast. Much brighter than the old bulbs.

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
I have snappable linked cards of 12 volt rated CREE chips. 4 micros in series. They were only available in 3K temperature. Each chip is bright but multiples would be needed for a lamp. If you like "warm" you'd love the color temp. They have micro solder points. Incredibly efficient lighting modules. I have no vendor contact linkage. Sorry.

BurbMan
Explorer II
Explorer II
Tom_M wrote:
Unless I'm suffering a brain fade, you need a DPDT switch to do the hi/lo switching.


Yeah that's probably right ๐Ÿ™‚ You would run 12v to both poles on the left side, right?

Craig, these LEDs didn't have the color temp listed, but I'm guessing it's north of the 6500k range because they have a bluish tint. Not really what I wanted and probably wouldn't buy them again. I have 6500k "daylight" fluorescents in my garage and the strip looked good on the test run, but in the camper they had a definite bluish tint.

Good luck finding lumens info on any of these LEDs...I was trying to get a lumens equivalent on the fluorescents but in the end just guessed at 4 LED strips and it was about right.

Tom_M1
Explorer
Explorer
BurbMan wrote:
Schomer, rather than a dimmer you could double the # of LEDs and add a hi/low switch to the fixture, so that you can turn on half or all of the LEDs.

My fluorescents had an SPST rocker swicth on the end:
Replace it with an SPDT:
Unless I'm suffering a brain fade, you need a DPDT switch to do the hi/lo switching. This is how I did it:
Tom
2005 Born Free 24RB
170ah Renogy LiFePo4 drop-in battery 400 watts solar
Towing 2016 Mini Cooper convertible on tow dolly
Minneapolis, MN

C_Schomer
Explorer
Explorer
Iโ€™m not much on electronics but I have seen some dimming systems on a scope and it is very fun to watch. My ceiling fluorescent fixtures work off of a wall switch but each fixture also has the SPST switch but Iโ€™m still leaning towards a dimmer switch to replace the wall switch.
LEDโ€™s are one of the most difficult things Iโ€™ve ever shopped for. Itโ€™s so hard to find complete information on them... especially accurate light temperatures and lumens.
I also had my house built with all LEDs. I know some of the 120 VAC LEDs are dimmable and some of them are not. What about the 12 VDC LEDsโ€ฆ Are they usually dimmable? I also prefer 5K light temperature and the majority of 12 VDC LEDS are listed as 6K and Iโ€™m afraid they will be bluish.
I really havenโ€™t had any problems with any of my stick-on LED strips but the rest of my lights are B15D bulbs and I never know how long they are going to last before they start flickering.
I usually camp with electrical hook up so whether Iโ€™m using my solar or my PD converter with a charge wizard, the voltage changes a lot. The LED strips seem to withstand it but the B15s sure donโ€™t. Do I need to look for something special like self regulating for the B 15s?
Where do you guys find good LEDs and good information on them? Craig
2012 Dodge 3500 DRW CCLB 4wd, custom hauler bed.
2008 Sunnybrook Titan 30 RKFS Morryde and Disc brakes
WILL ROGERS NEVER MET JOE BIDEN!

BurbMan
Explorer II
Explorer II
These LEDs were advertised as "cool to the touch", but I left them on for about 3 hrs on shore power and they got pretty hot, but you could still touch the metal fixture so I don't think they are a fire hazard.

Wopachop I get what you are saying about higher voltage shortening the service life, but appreciate the use case: This is a truck camper that is used 95% off the grid at battery voltage, not plugged into a CG pedestal. The Honda gen and the solar only charge the batteries during the day, when the lights will be off. I also figured these would be cheap LEDs buying off of Amazon, where do you recommend buying LEDs from?

Schomer, rather than a dimmer you could double the # of LEDs and add a hi/low switch to the fixture, so that you can turn on half or all of the LEDs.

My fluorescents had an SPST rocker swicth on the end:



Replace it with an SPDT:



A lot easier than a dimmer.

DrewE
Explorer II
Explorer II
C Schomer wrote:
I completely converted my last 2 fifth wheels to LEDs, including the stick-on strips in the fluorescent fixtures and now I have another idea. I want to add more LED strips to some of the fluorescent fixtures to make them super bright for trailer cleaning day, reading, etc. and put a dimmer on them. Beings they are DC, Iโ€™m guessing a dimmer just reduces the voltage slightly too dim them. Sooo... 99% of the time those LED strips would be dimmed, so would that eliminate the problems with over voltage and heating? Craig


Most LED dimmers are PWM chopper circuits, I believe; they rapidly switch the LEDs on and off with a varying duty cycle. This would help with the heating issues, as the power dissipation is reduced with the dimming.

LEDs themselves operate at an approximately constant voltage drop, the LEDs forward voltage. Intensity is controlled by current flow, and regulated somehow--in inexpensive fixtures or typical LED tape, by having a ballast resistor. In better fixture or LED bulb designs this is some sort of active driver circuit that regulates the current, but you almost certainly won't find them in LED tape.

C_Schomer
Explorer
Explorer
I completely converted my last 2 fifth wheels to LEDs, including the stick-on strips in the fluorescent fixtures and now I have another idea. I want to add more LED strips to some of the fluorescent fixtures to make them super bright for trailer cleaning day, reading, etc. and put a dimmer on them. Beings they are DC, Iโ€™m guessing a dimmer just reduces the voltage slightly too dim them. Sooo... 99% of the time those LED strips would be dimmed, so would that eliminate the problems with over voltage and heating? Craig
2012 Dodge 3500 DRW CCLB 4wd, custom hauler bed.
2008 Sunnybrook Titan 30 RKFS Morryde and Disc brakes
WILL ROGERS NEVER MET JOE BIDEN!

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
I think I spent $7.xx on Amazon for a 5 meter (about 16 foot) roll of LED's (I still have a roll or 2 left) and sliced and diced and jumpered not as neat as the O/Ps but about 3-4 times the LED's were mounted on the old Florcesent plate. Way more light. The "Flavor" (Cool) I like v/s the Warm. longer life, NO RFI (That blasted "Ballast" (inverter) was nasty on 75 Meters or one of 'em was) and less current draw.. Was very happy with the result.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
This is what DC to DC converters are for. No LED on the face of the earth should be forced to operate at 50ยฐC 122ยฐF

Need more light? Add more emitters but keep the temperature down.

Search for MEANWELL constant current converters. Too bad fluorescent fixtures are steel. Aluminum would make an ideal heat sink.

Once I rebuild my moved workshop I will resume building gift LED 12 volt fixtures for ranchos. 10 watts consumed puts out an unbelievable amount of light. I use new obsolete CPU heat sinks. And TO220 volt regulators.

wopachop
Explorer
Explorer
Those suckers are gonna run really hot when your converter goes into 14v mode. Looks cool and congrats on your mod. BUt if anyone reads this please dont buy LEDs off amazon. You are getting ripped off. Also note this style of LED does not like getting a voltage over 12.5v. Let alone the normal 13v float charge. Does your converter do a weekly 14v charge? If you notice it happen i would turn off your LED dealio. Will make it last longer. Not a fire danger just gonna burn them out. If you have access to a welding mask look at the LEDs with that. You can see which have burned out.

Dalo
Explorer
Explorer
Another benefit is less bugs. I changed from fluorescent to LED to save energy but an added plus is knats, moths etc don't seem to be attracted to LEDs..
2004 Dodge Ram 3500 with 5.9L Cummins, K&N air filter, Magnaflow exhaust and Hypertech power programmer
2003 Alumascape 26' travel trailer

jdc1
Explorer II
Explorer II
That's a nice job.

mbopp
Explorer
Explorer
Nicely done!
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