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fridge issue

maxum1989
Explorer II
Explorer II
I am having an issue with my fridge in my camper. On AC it works great. Temps right where they should be (37degrees). When I switch to propane it can't hold the cooler temps and climbs to about 46 degress. This is with the outside temps in the high 60's or lower 70's. Higher temps outside, fridge does worse.

The tubes on the back of the fridge get warm on electric but not nearly as much on propane.

I have read that since its cooling on electric the cooling part of the fridge is fine. Problem is with the propane, flame, etc. The flame looks totally perfect. All blue, no flickering. I refilled the propane tank, no change. I have taken apart the burner tube and cleaned it very well, no change. I cannot see up the flue but would a partially blocked flu above the flame cause this? I would have thought that eventually a spiders/insects nest would burn out of there if there was one. Fridge has been on for a couple weeks. The outside of the flue gets quite warm on propane but obviously something isn't right. Any ideas?
2008 Chevy 2500hd Duramax/Allison
2006 Wildcat 27 bhwb
2009 Lance 830 *Sold*
2011 Northern Lite 8.5 *Sold*
13 REPLIES 13

maxum1989
Explorer II
Explorer II
Just thought I would give an update on my fridge issue in case it can help someone else with a similar issue. I did replace the propane regulator as suggested with great results. Fridge now appears to be operating normally on propane. I was lucky to find my regulator was an inexpensive model found on Ebay. Had one shipped to my door for 23 bucks. Can't get easier than that.

Quick switch to the new regulator and a few days of testing have shown good results. My mind may be playing tricks on me but the flame for the fridge seems to be a little louder than before.

So, if your fridge is operating normally on electric, but is working (but struggling) on propane, try changing the propane regulator. Good chance your issue will be fixed.

Thanks all.
2008 Chevy 2500hd Duramax/Allison
2006 Wildcat 27 bhwb
2009 Lance 830 *Sold*
2011 Northern Lite 8.5 *Sold*

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
Verify which regulator you have. 5ers some times have a regulator on each tank and then one in middle.
Could have a single auto-switch.
Just check to see how yours is set up!

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

maxum1989
Explorer II
Explorer II
enblethen wrote:
You really need to knock the baffle around. That is why a piece of wire is necessary. Yes, it is suppose to move up, as it is hanging from a wire in the tube.
Turn on all burners on the stove and see what the flames are like. They all should be nice blue flame.
If they are not it is possible that the regulator is not working properly, low pressure. They are in-expensive. I would go get a new one, far cheaper then a repair shop.


This is a good idea I think. If it is proven the regulator is not the issue then I have eliminated that possible cause and I will have a spare regulator for when I may need it in the future. Thanks
2008 Chevy 2500hd Duramax/Allison
2006 Wildcat 27 bhwb
2009 Lance 830 *Sold*
2011 Northern Lite 8.5 *Sold*

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
You really need to knock the baffle around. That is why a piece of wire is necessary. Yes, it is suppose to move up, as it is hanging from a wire in the tube.
Turn on all burners on the stove and see what the flames are like. They all should be nice blue flame.
If they are not it is possible that the regulator is not working properly, low pressure. They are in-expensive. I would go get a new one, far cheaper then a repair shop.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

maxum1989
Explorer II
Explorer II
Here is what I found out.

I took off the burner and the housing that the burner sits in to get clear access to the underside of the perk tube. Talk about tight working conditions. I used my phone to take some video looking up the tube and there is a little rust but not a lot. No debris or anything like that came out. I can reach up inside the perk tube with my finger and touch the baffle. It seems to move around a little but I think its supposed to. Not sure about that. When I touched it, it seems to move up slightly and then settle down into a set position. I put everything back together and turned it on to make sure everything was working. It does light normally but it is a little cool out to give it a fair test.
I don't have a way of testing the gas pressure so when the weather warms up if it still isn't operating properly I may have to take it in to someone that knows more.
We'll see when it warms up.
2008 Chevy 2500hd Duramax/Allison
2006 Wildcat 27 bhwb
2009 Lance 830 *Sold*
2011 Northern Lite 8.5 *Sold*

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
maxum1989 wrote:
enblethen wrote:
There could be debris in the stack. have you cleaned it?
It is a bout a 3/4 inch tube right above the flame. There is a baffle a few inches up inside it that can catch debris.
You can use a flexible piece of wire about the diameter of a wire coat hanger to rattle the baffle which will knock the debris down.


I think I will try this next. Seems possible something could be in there blocking some of the heat.


Electric heat element transfers the heat directly to the perk tube (boiler)

Propane heat is transferred to perk tube via the spiral baffle inside stack.
Propane flame needs to be clean, steady blue and just reach the opening in stack---then spiral baffle has to be clean in order to transfer that heat correctly.
If baffle is rusted up and/or out of position it can not transfer the heat properly.

Also......gas pressure. Needs to be at least 10.5" WC with fridge gas valve open otherwise not enough fuel being burned/not enough heat generated.
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

maxum1989
Explorer II
Explorer II
enblethen wrote:
There could be debris in the stack. have you cleaned it?
It is a bout a 3/4 inch tube right above the flame. There is a baffle a few inches up inside it that can catch debris.
You can use a flexible piece of wire about the diameter of a wire coat hanger to rattle the baffle which will knock the debris down.


I think I will try this next. Seems possible something could be in there blocking some of the heat.
2008 Chevy 2500hd Duramax/Allison
2006 Wildcat 27 bhwb
2009 Lance 830 *Sold*
2011 Northern Lite 8.5 *Sold*

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
There could be debris in the stack. have you cleaned it?
It is a bout a 3/4 inch tube right above the flame. There is a baffle a few inches up inside it that can catch debris.
You can use a flexible piece of wire about the diameter of a wire coat hanger to rattle the baffle which will knock the debris down.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

maxum1989
Explorer II
Explorer II
Elevation not a factor. I am almost always close to the coast.
2008 Chevy 2500hd Duramax/Allison
2006 Wildcat 27 bhwb
2009 Lance 830 *Sold*
2011 Northern Lite 8.5 *Sold*

TucsonJim
Explorer
Explorer
What elevation are you at? If you're over 5500 feet, you can get decreased cooling from the propane side due to an inefficient burn. This elevation issue will typically be listed in your owner's manual.

Jim
2016 Ford F350 Turbo Diesel SRW 4x4
2017 Grand Design Reflection 297RSTS
2013 Ford F350 Turbo Diesel SRW 4x4 (Destroyed by fire - 8/29/16)
2014 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS (Destroyed by fire - 8/29/16)

maxum1989
Explorer II
Explorer II
Flame looks pretty blue to me. How would one make the flame hotter or bigger if that is the issue?
2008 Chevy 2500hd Duramax/Allison
2006 Wildcat 27 bhwb
2009 Lance 830 *Sold*
2011 Northern Lite 8.5 *Sold*

MitchF150
Explorer III
Explorer III
check your burner.. Might not have a hot enough flame. What color is the flame when it's running? Should be mostly blue near the nozzle and only yellow on the tip.

Mitch
2013 F150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab Max Tow Egoboost 3.73 gears #7700 GVWR #1920 payload. 2019 Rockwood Mini Lite 2511S.

Kayteg1
Explorer II
Explorer II
I would go on the roof, remove the vent cap and see if everything is clean.
Other than that, sound to me you did everything DIY can do, so if additional cleaning will not solve the issue, that would qualify for calling expert.