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Hot water tank plug never seen one like this

jarata1
Explorer
Explorer
We bought a new to us travel trailer with an Atwood hot water heater.
Instead of the normal nylon drain plug they have a galvanized square plug on it
For the life of me I can't get it off it seems to be rusted on and tough to get a grip with channel locks any ideas.
29 REPLIES 29

John_Joey
Explorer
Explorer
If he does go for it, the amount of rocking back and forth isn't going to do it. Putting a big wrench on it will more then likely just tear the threads right out. A low impact wrench may loosen it up.

The real problem will be what would happen to spark plugs in an aluminum head in the old days. The spark plug would extend past the aluminum and rust would form. As the plug was coming out it's rusted part would destroy what was in it's path. That's where helicoils come in. Who knows maybe that is an option here to repair the damage that may occur if it all goes wrong.
Thereโ€™s no fool, like an old fool.

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
aruba5er wrote:
Using an eight point socket and adapters to get down to 1/4" i'd use my small Ridgid impact driver. Not too much power but enough to probably break the bond of rust (electroli. I really think that would loosen enough to get it out. I then replaced mine with whatever hardware to but in a 3/4" ball valve. Forever done.
Anyone using a 12 point is just kidding themselves. Thats why they make 8 point.


A 12 point IS "less than ideal" but, consider this, the OP IS dealing with a aluminum tank with a steel plug..

Guess which item IS going to "give" first..

THE TANK THREADS..

The softer aluminum tank threads have a far greater risk of being damaged.

Any rust or corrosion on the threads of the steel plug will deform and possibly damage the tank threads.. That is why the OP needs to remove carefully by backing out a quarter turn then tightening it a quarter turn then reversing and backing out a little more.. Each time it SHOULD make some ground..

You simply cannot "horse" this out if you want any chance of not severely damaging the tank in the process.

At least if the OP strips the head on the plug they STILL have a "usable" water heater..

Strip or damage the threads on the tank and it is pretty much scrap unless you wish to pay a metal shop to weld a new bung on the tank.. Welders do not come cheap and finding a welder that welds aluminum is a challenge.. Not to mention the welder would need to strip the tank of the controls and shroud in order to be able to weld around the new bung (can't get enough room to weld in place).

aruba5er
Explorer
Explorer
Using an eight point socket and adapters to get down to 1/4" i'd use my small Ridgid impact driver. Not too much power but enough to probably break the bond of rust (electroli. I really think that would loosen enough to get it out. I then replaced mine with whatever hardware to but in a 3/4" ball valve. Forever done.
Anyone using a 12 point is just kidding themselves. Thats why they make 8 point.

SaltiDawg
Explorer
Explorer
D.E.Bishop wrote:


Heck ol' SaltiDawg ain't exactly right but damm close. On my old diesel powered boat we had a set of open end wrenches that were I believe called "crow's foot" wrenches. Instead of a handle the open end had a 1/2" drive socket to put a 1/2" drive ratchet or 1/2 drive extension in. I'll look that up and edit post in a few minutes.

Try this link.

There you go.

My first two boats (listed above) were Diesel Boats. The other three were Nuclear Fast Attack. I am familiar with Crow's Foot wrenches.

Thanks.

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
SaltiDawg wrote:
"You must not have a Atwood?"

lol Heck, I've never set foot in any RV. Just a dumb retired Submariner that has come to this site for 3+ years to learn about portable electrical generators... and I've learned a lot!

Sorry I butted in with the suggestion of using an open ended wrench - actually the correct tool but if there is no room, of course it was a dumb idea on my part.

If you think your RVs are cramped and sometimes hard to work in, I could swap Submarine access stories with you I suspect.


You made a good suggestion and since you have not had the fun of removing a Atwood drain plug you would not have any way to know that it is in a really hard place to get to.

I am barely able to get my hand in there to start threading in the plug.. Basically holding the plug with two fingers then twisting..

As far as swapping sub stories, never had the pleasure of being on board of one, but I have multiple times toured the USS North Carolina battleship in Wilmington NC.. Pretty amazing to see what our Service men went through to keep us free!

My Dad spent several tours of duty on the USS Macon Georgia as a Machinist mate, so I really have a appreciation and soft spot for folks who gave up their time and often lives.. He taught me a bunch about DIY wrenching.

D_E_Bishop
Explorer
Explorer
SaltiDawg wrote:
"You must not have a Atwood?"

lol Heck, I've never set foot in any RV. Just a dumb retired Submariner that has come to this site for 3+ years to learn about portable electrical generators... and I've learned a lot!

Sorry I butted in with the suggestion of using an open ended wrench - actually the correct tool but if there is no room, of course it was a dumb idea on my part.

If you think your RVs are cramped and sometimes hard to work in, I could swap Submarine access stories with you I suspect.


Heck ol' SaltiDawg ain't exactly right but damm close. On my old diesel powered boat we had a set of open end wrenches that were I believe called "crow's foot" wrenches. Instead of a handle the open end had a 1/2" drive socket to put a 1/2" drive ratchet or 1/2 drive extension in. I'll look that up and edit post in a few minutes.

Try this link.

There you go.
"I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to go". R. L. Stevenson

David Bishop
2002 Winnebago Adventurer 32V
2009 GMC Canyon
Roadmaster 5000
BrakeBuddy Classic II

rbturner
Explorer
Explorer
Not sure what the goal of this mission is but if to just drain the tank; have you considered drilling the center of the plug, tapping it for 1/4" pipe and then putting either a plug in or a petcock?

agesilaus
Explorer III
Explorer III
Sent you a private message.
Arctic Fox 25Y Travel Trailer
2018 RAM 2500 6.7L 4WD shortbed
Straightline dual cam hitch
400W Solar with Victron controller
Superbumper

SaltiDawg
Explorer
Explorer
agesilaus wrote:
If you think your RVs are cramped and sometimes hard to work in, I could swap Submarine access stories with you I suspect.
-----------------------------------------------------

Been there--done that...heh


Which Boats?

Mackerel T-1, Quillback SS-424, Pargo SSN-650, Trepang SSN-674, Bergall SSN-667, Repair Officer Frank Cable (AS-40).

agesilaus
Explorer III
Explorer III
If you think your RVs are cramped and sometimes hard to work in, I could swap Submarine access stories with you I suspect.
-----------------------------------------------------

Been there--done that...heh
Arctic Fox 25Y Travel Trailer
2018 RAM 2500 6.7L 4WD shortbed
Straightline dual cam hitch
400W Solar with Victron controller
Superbumper

SaltiDawg
Explorer
Explorer
"You must not have a Atwood?"

lol Heck, I've never set foot in any RV. Just a dumb retired Submariner that has come to this site for 3+ years to learn about portable electrical generators... and I've learned a lot!

Sorry I butted in with the suggestion of using an open ended wrench - actually the correct tool but if there is no room, of course it was a dumb idea on my part.

If you think your RVs are cramped and sometimes hard to work in, I could swap Submarine access stories with you I suspect.

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
Saltidog writes โ€œDo not people have access to open end wrenches any more? Why would one want to use a socket that only contacts a square nut at the four corner points? (BTW, that suggests using a socket with a number of points devisable by four... eg NOT six...)โ€


You must not have a Atwood?

The placement of the drain plug pretty much precludes the usage of ANY open end wrench.

The real easy way to remove the drain plug on a Attwood IS with a socket since you can add a extension to get the ratchet OUTSIDE AND AWAY from the control valve that is in the way.

You might get a open end wrench on the plug, but there is no place to swing it, it will hit the control valve or the tank shroud and you canโ€™t get your hand in there to get leverage.

I was too tired to look it up last night but here you go..

USING 12 POINT SOCKET TO REMOVE SQUARE BOLT

See post number 4.. which I will quote..

โ€œA 12-point socket can be used on a square nut if it happens to fit close enough. The teeth of the socket do not match the angle of the corners of the nut, but often will get the job done. I believe that one reason older socket sets have so many /32" sizes is to they would fit square nuts.

I broke several SK 5/8" 12-point sockets by using them on square head bolts when I was young and stupid, so I speak from experience.โ€


Granted, using a 12 point is โ€œless than idealโ€, truth be told it CAN work in a pinch.

4/8 point sockets are not all that common in RETAIL stores, to find one you will most likely NEED to ORDER one. Not to mention buying a 4/8 point socket exclusively for this ONE TIME USE will be a waste of the OPs money since the chances of ever using that socket again are pretty darn low.

I know none of the stores in my area carry any 4/8 point sockets, I have looked due to dealing with antique engines which often are constructed exclusively with square bolts.

What you must do though is to find a 12 point socket that FITS as tightly as possible, you may find the need to try METRIC sockets which will have โ€œin between sizesโ€ from SAE common sizes.

Another alternative is a โ€œclaws footโ€ (AKA Crows foot) which is simply a shortened version of a open end wrench and has a square hole for a ratchet wrench or ratchet extension.. But once again no longer a commonly found tool in retail stores (you might find a small claws foot kit at Sears if you are lucky to have a Sears store)..

Not even sure drilling out the plug is an option, plug is at an angle and I doubt you will be able to get a drill to angle without the tank shroud interfering. The only hope would be to remove the entire tank from the RV, then disassemble the tank shroud from the tank..

Sadly I think a few comments of replacing the entire tank just might be the cold hard reality since the steel plug is harder than the softer aluminum.. The plug and any corrosion on the plug inside the tank most likely will deform/damage the threads. But with some care you may as well attempt a try, nothing to lose at this point, canโ€™t drain it and if in freezing climate it will be toast the next winter.

TUCQUALA
Explorer
Explorer
Look at where the plug is for most water heaters. I doubt that box or open end wrench will work that well. Very little room to apply a good pull and probably not square on the plug head. A recipe for rounding out the edges or twisting or bending the tank port.

Socket on extension much better. Of course you would need a 4 pt socket!!!
'16 Outdoors Timber Ridge 280RKS
Reese 1700# Trunnion w/ DualCam HP
'03 EXCURSION XLT V10 4.30 Axles

Kayteg1
Explorer II
Explorer II
SaltiDawg wrote:
Do not people have access to open end wrenches any more? Why would one want to use a socket that only contacts a square nut at the four corner points? (BTW, that suggests using a socket with a number of points devisable by four... eg NOT six...)


You are right, that 12-point will work as well, but traditional 12 point will easy round corners.
Now new-technology 12 point is different story. If you find one that fits firmly over square, that would be good.
I bought sets of those in box and socket. Really amazing. Got even big E-torx with them.