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Fridge not Working

Bob_E_
Explorer
Explorer
My dad's 10yr old Norcold Fridge quit working in his camper. It runs but doesn't cool at all on either gas or 120v electric. Opened the outside cover and you can see some green residue in the corner of the opening under the right side where the heating element is. The local RV shop, without looking at it, told my dad that the green residue is where the ammonia has leaked out of it and the fridge will need replaced at about $1300 or so. He said the cost of repairing it would be prohibitive so may as well replace it.

Before we go and rip it out, does the advice of the local RV shop make sense? Or are they just trying to sell us a new fridge?

Thanks for any advice.

Bob E.
8 REPLIES 8

Bob_E_
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks everyone. Iโ€™ll let my dad know. I had told him the same thing regarding an electric fridge and upgrading his batteries and adding some solar. He rarely camps without hookups. So Iโ€™m sure he will be fine with an electric fridge.

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
The cooling unit has had it. You really have to decide on what your needs are. If all electric works then that's fine. For those that like to dry camp occasionally, simply replacing the cooling unit may be the way to go.

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
The 'yellowish/green' residue is NOT ammonia..ammonia turns to vapor and dissipates fairly quickly

The sodium chromate is the residue left behind when cooling unit leaks
Sodium chromate is an anti-rust inhibitor and is what crystallizes when overheated.
Crystals form and plate out on inside of tube

When cooling unit has a crack (typically in perk tube---boiler) the sodium chromate dries out and leaves the residue behind \ clear tell-tale that cooling unit is no good
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
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pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
I would go electric fridge and spend the money saved on a solar panel system.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

donn0128
Explorer II
Explorer II
Amish cooling unit, about 600 dollars. Labor for the average DIYer, 4 hours. New refer, about 1300 dollars.

DavinD
Explorer
Explorer
There's a good picture here of an ammonia leak. I think the shop is correct.

http://rvvoyageur.blogspot.com/2015/02/the-case-of-broken-down-rv-refrigerator.html
2018 Coachman Chaparral 381RD

TV - 2013 Ford F350 Diesel SRW 4x4 Short Bed

maillemaker
Explorer
Explorer
From what I have heard, the ammonia leakage is usually yellowish in color, but yes, sounds to me like your ammonia has leaked out.

You can buy replacement cooling units for about $500, but I imagine if you had it professionally installed that yes, you would probably be close to the cost of a new one.

A lot of people are going with residential refrigerators instead of RV ones as they are far, far cheaper (like <$300) so long as you can live with 120V operation only.
1990 Winnebago Warrior. "She may not look like much but she's got it where it counts!"