Honda 2000 gen starts my AC....

[lawrosa]

I borrowed my work generator on a new job I started. It starts my 13.5K btu A/C. This is a 2000 watt Honda.. Say 13.3 amps on the 120v outlet

My other buddy bought the harbor freight 2200 watt inverter gen.. it dont start it at all.. Mine or his... goes into overload too quick..

Anyone else running their a/c on a honda 2000?

Mind you I started 3 out of 4 times before going to overload.. Batterys fully charges and no other loads. I run a/c on fan on high for few moments that switch to high cool..

This is a duo therm unit..

I then brought it to my buddy s and it starts his Coleman a/c on his living light..

Anyone have any advice on this??/

[Chum_lee]

Lets be clear. Most 13.5 k BTU AC units will RUN on a 2000W Honda genny. The real question is, "Will they reliably/consistently start?" At sea level (or close) maybe. At 8,000 feet on a hot day, probably not. As previously mentioned LRA, or Locked Rotor Amps, is the reason. The AC may RUN just fine on 10-12 amps @ 120 volts, but to get everything spinning the AC may require up to about 80% more power (while maintaining close to 120 volts) for a few seconds depending on too many variables to mention. Once running, chances are, you'll be fine, until the compressor shuts off and then tries to restart. That's why I have a 4000 watt genny. The AC ALWAYS starts, even with the coffee maker and fridge running on electricity. No free lunch!

Chum lee

[otrfun]

nowgrn4 wrote:
I ran a 13.5K Coleman Mach III PS (power saver) for years with a Honda 2000. Many times boondocking in the summer down here for as long as a week running like this. I found running the thermostat on its coldest setting so the compressor never cycled off was the best policy. Pulling 8.3 AMPS continuously as indicated by the Kill-O-Watt meter. If it got too cold inside we would crack a window. Of course fridge would be set on propane and running electric griddle, coffee maker or microwave the A/C would be shut down.

I'm assuming you probably had the older, 8xx series, 13.5k BTU Coleman Mach III Power Saver. LRA was approx. 58a on these earlier generation models. The current 9xx series has a much lower LRA of 50a. This 8a reduction in LRA significantly improves the EU2000i's chance of successfully starting it with the Eco mode on.

Were you able to start your unit with the EU2000i's Eco mode on?

You were very lucky to only have an 8.3a draw. Typically, it's closer to 11-12a.

Interesting to note you powered your Coleman a/c with the EU2000i for a week at a time, "for years". The EU2000i is a rugged little unit, for sure.

[nowgrn4]

I ran a 13.5K Coleman Mach III PS (power saver) for years with a Honda 2000. Many times boondocking in the summer down here for as long as a week running like this. I found running the thermostat on its coldest setting so the compressor never cycled off was the best policy. Pulling 8.3 AMPS continuously as indicated by the Kill-O-Watt meter. If it got too cold inside we would crack a window. Of course fridge would be set on propane and running electric griddle, coffee maker or microwave the A/C would be shut down.

[RinconVTR]

otrfun wrote:
For those who would like to get past the many anecdotal, doomsday comments about running a 13.5k BTU a/c with one EU2000i, these two steps may help you gain a more objective perspective on the actual risk and chance of success:

1. Check the LRA (locked rotor amp) rating for your current or prospective 13.5k BTU a/c unit. If it's 50a or lower, odds are very high you can reliably start it with one EU2000i with the Eco mode on. Almost a sure thing with the Eco mode off. Once you're reasonably confident you can start it, now you can focus on step 2, running it.

2. Check the continuous current rating of your current or prospective 13.5k BTU a/c unit. Typically, the continuous current rating for the vast majority of 13.5k BTU a/c's range from 10-14a. Honda says the EU2000i can reliably provide 13.3a of current indefinitely, and 16.6a for up to 30 minutes. Assuming the LRA (from step 1) is low enough to allow reliable starts, and you trust Honda, then it's reasonable to assume one EU2000i has sufficient continuous power to reliably run the vast majority of 13.5k BTU a/c's.

Ok, so you don't trust Honda? Have a low tolerance for risk? Well, you do have the option of making life kinder and more gentler for your EU2000i. Simply purchase/use a 13.5k BTU a/c that has a continuous current rating much closer to 10a (along with a sufficiently low LRA).

If you're uncomfortable pushing your EU2000i to 10a, well, you may want to reconsider that drive to work this morning . . . I've heard it can be potentially fatal.

Great response.

I cannot directly add to the 13.5k BTU AC on generator discussion, however I can verify my 11.5k BTU unit runs at 1100-1200 watts monitored by a KillAWatt meter, on high. Start up draw peaks around 1400 watts.

[lawrosa]

well I went out to get a watt reading with my killowatt meter but the A/C will not run cause its too cold.. 60 F on the camper t stat.. The compressor will not kick in.

We are getting that hurricane tomorrow .. I just got about 10 gallons gas for the house gen and the little 2000 honda.

Hope to stay safe here in NJ.. 🙂

[otrfun]

2oldman wrote:

otrfun wrote:
His inefficient Dometic 13.5k BTU a/c would NOT start unless two (2) EU2000i's were run paralleled with the Eco mode OFF! It's a HUGE con when you have to run two EU2000i's with the Eco mode off---NOT quiet!

I would concede that.

All situations are different. My DuoTherm Brisk Air starts and runs just fine with 2 paralleled 2ks on Eco mode. And I can run many things at the same time, including the MW for a minute or so, but they are definitely screaming at that point.

I'm sure everyone here would agree "all situations are different". Beyond that all bets are off.

How often do we read comments like: I can power x with y, I can't power x with y, I can power a with b, I can't power a with b.

Unfortunately, it's not common knowledge as to WHY (specifically LRA vs. generator inrush capability) one person can power their x with y, while another cannot. Those that choose to arm themselves with this kind of knowledge have the potential to save their hearing, their back, their precious money, and keep cool during the summer, all at the same time.

[2oldman]

otrfun wrote:
His inefficient Dometic 13.5k BTU a/c would NOT start unless two (2) EU2000i's were run paralleled with the Eco mode OFF! It's a HUGE con when you have to run two EU2000i's with the Eco mode off---NOT quiet!

I would concede that.

All situations are different. My DuoTherm Brisk Air starts and runs just fine with 2 paralleled 2ks on Eco mode. And I can run many things at the same time, including the MW for a minute or so, but they are definitely screaming at that point.

[otrfun]

samsontdog wrote:
My EU2000 Honda would start and run my 13,500 A/C in my 2012 TT at Lake Tahoe.
I sold the gen and bought a EU3000 Honda G. The 3,000 would run for a while then bough down. Sold it and bought two Hondas EU2000 which run everything fine

Sound about right.

An EU2000i running with the Eco mode off can produce the same (sometimes even slightly more) inrush current as an EU3000iS with the Eco mode on.

On the other hand, one EU3000iS running with the Eco mode off produces more inrush current than two EU2000i's paralleled, running with the Eco mode on.

Yes, confusing and boring info for many. But, extremely good stuff to know when you're trying to power inductive loads.

[marcsbigfoot20b]

My AC unit is a 15 year old Dometic Duotherm Brisk Air and it will run off one EU2000i. The gen only has 10 hours on it so it is still strong.

Has a Supco hard start cap.
Runs great in 105 degree weather, but Im only at 1400 ft in Phx.

Up at 7500 ft (never tried the AC) it barely runs the microwave.
Im sure it wouldn't even start the AC up at that altitude.

[otrfun]

2oldman wrote:

otrfun wrote:
Well, you do have the option of making life kinder and more gentler for your EU2000i. Simply purchase/use a 13.5k BTU a/c that has a continuous current rating much closer to 10a (along with a sufficiently low LRA).

Wouldn't it be much easier to purchase another 2000?

It all depends how you define easier.

Friend of mine replaced his inefficient Dometic 13.5k BTU a/c with a more efficient 50a LRA/10a 13.5K BTU a/c on-sale for $550, instead of purchasing a 2nd EU2000i for $1000. Sure, it took the two of us about 45 min. to swap out the a/c roof unit. But, not only did he save $450 (vs. a 2nd EU2000i), he only has to fuel, service, carry, and listen to the noise produced by ONE EU2000i vs. two, paralleled EU2000i's.

Yup, all the above pro's were nice, but this con made the above decision a real no-brainer: His inefficient Dometic 13.5k BTU a/c would NOT start unless two (2) EU2000i's were run paralleled with the Eco mode OFF! It's a HUGE con when you have to run two EU2000i's with the Eco mode off---NOT quiet! Not to mention the extra wear & tear and fuel.

BTW, there was nothing wrong with this Dometic--it was only two months old. LRA was factory spot-on at 63a (too much for even two EU2000i's to start with the Eco mode on). Any, yes, we tried a premium Dometic hard-start kit (with a separate relay), but it made very little difference in the inrush current.

BTW, he sold his Dometic 13.5k BTU a/c on CL for $375. So, the new roof-top a/c unit itself only set him back $175. All said and done, one EU2000i and the new rooftop a/c unit cost him $1125 vs. $2000 for two EU2000i's AND having to suffer through ALL the significant CONs previously mentioned.

For my friend, it was absolutely a hands-down, easy decision to live with one EU2000i vs. two.

[samsontdog]

My EU2000 Honda would start and run my 13,500 A/C in my 2012 TT at Lake Tahoe.
I sold the gen and bought a EU3000 Honda G. The 3,000 would run for a while then bough down. Sold it and bought two Hondas EU2000 which run everything fine

[dstr_59]

don't forget the age and condition of the a/c unit itself.
granted the OP had differences in genning capacity.
but, the load requirements associated w/ a tired, wore out, poorly maintained unit, may drive up the current draw to more than that generator can reliably handle.(ymmv)

[mkirsch]

Honda vs. Harbor Freight... You can't hardly expect them to work the same.

There's no magic you can perform to make the HF generator start the AC unit if it won't start the AC now, but the Honda will.

[Calicajun]

MrWizard wrote:

Calicajun wrote:
Takes about 3,200 watts to tun an A/C unit.

where in the word did you get that number ?

12.5 amps times 120v, roughly 1800w to run an A/C unit

3200w would be about 26 amps at 120v

To run a friend A/C it took two generators tied together to run his unit with nothing else on in the TT. Also lots of other posts here saying the thing.
Only have one 2000/1600 watt generator, so fans and a small swamp cooler is all I run when dry camping. ??

[2oldman]

otrfun wrote:
Well, you do have the option of making life kinder and more gentler for your EU2000i. Simply purchase/use a 13.5k BTU a/c that has a continuous current rating much closer to 10a (along with a sufficiently low LRA).

Wouldn't it be much easier to purchase another 2000?