How many links to lift on a WD hitch?

[bandit86]

Just curious, I'm thinking my Reese weight distributing hitch is not strong enough of my trailer as I got it cranked right up and the back of the truck is still 3 inches low. I have 6 links left, I could shorten it another but I'm worried that chain might be too short to go around corners. No data tag on it, came with the trailer.

[myredracer]

TomG2 wrote:
I believe in scales and measurements instead of guesses.

X2

Going to a scale is one of the best things you can do. You'll get the truck's actual payload capacity, actual tongue weight, actual trailer weight as well as weight transferred onto the steer and trailer axles. Once armed with actual weights, you will be able to make informed decisions rather than guessing.

With a previous TT, I just could not get enough weight transferred to the steer axle no matter what I did. Wasn't until I went to a scale that I realized that the spring bars were undersized and I needed the next size up. I found that the actual TW was approaching double the factory dry number. When I picked up our current TT at the dealer the first thing I did before going home was to go to a scale.

If at a scale, also try and get side to side weights on the trailer if possible and compare that to the load capacity rating on the tires.

[TomG2]

I know fully well how they work, but someone who has a calibrated eyeball, is usually wrong. I believe in scales and measurements instead of guesses. I yield to the expert, who can tell from pictures, how many pounds have been transferred back to the front axle.

[BarneyS]

TomG2 wrote:

BarneyS wrote:
..snip......The OP has 6 links under tension which is just about perfect. ....snip.....Barney

I have owned many GM and Ford pickups. "None" referenced the number of links under tension or hanging in their setup instructions. They specify scales and body measurements. Snip...

That is exactly what I would expect them to specify. They do not make the hitches and therefore would not have any interest in specifying how many link under tensions or hanging. Not suprising at all that "None" would specify that. The hitch manufacturers (Reese, DrawTite, etc.) however DO specify exactly what I mentioned.

Here is a quote directly from the Drawtite installation and user manual.
"There must be at least 5 links between the lift unit and the spring bar. This is necessary for proper operation of the spring bars
during turns (See figure 9). If there will be less than 5 links between the lift unit and spring bar, the angle of the head assembly (2) must be increased."

If necessary, I can provide many more quotes to show those who don't understand how a WD hitch works how it does. :R
Barney

[bandit86]

Thanks guys, that's what I thought it should be. I ought to stop listening to people sellng me things, and monkeys working at dealerships

[msmith1_wa]

Your hitch head and spring bars look like an old eaz-lift with the original reese dual cam setup installed.

[myredracer]

bandit86 wrote:

Is the second or third picture right?

If you're referring to the cam being centered on the bar end, the passenger side looks okay, but driver's side is off. They need to be centered in the notch when truck and trailer are in a perfectly straight line. Can take a bit of trial and error fiddling sometimes to get it right. It looks like that older style of DC WDH requires loosening of the bracket U-bolts and moving the bracket forwards or rearwards. The new style is of cam arm & bracket is quite different. Being off a bit can make it feel like it's wandering and when it's right it's amazingly good at sway control.

[bandit86]

myredracer wrote:
Nice vintage Reese dual cam hitch! Spring bars come in different ratings and the required rating depends on actual tongue weight. Maybe someone knows ratings on the older DC WDHs. If bars are too "light", it may not be possible to transfer enough weight but it's hard to tell by the info. so far. When the TH is fully loaded, it could be that the bars and hitch won't have high enough rating. I'd guess you'd need 1200 lb bars. If you do need more tension on the bars, it looks like the hitch head is already tilted as far as it can go tho. Going to a scale would be a very good idea to get weights and would be good to know with and without any toys in it.

The "crook" in one bar end isn't centered on the cam. It's important to have them centered when in a straight line and truck and trailer are fully loaded for a trip. Can be harder for a TH with the amount of tongue weight variation.

A bit of squat in the rear of a truck is normal and okay, usually around 1 -2". It might be that the 2 3/4" will reduce when the WDH is fully adjusted and ready to go. But then, the rear is 3" or more lower to start with and not sure if handling could be adversely affected? As long as you aren't exceeding payload or RAWR, squat is fine. Some don't like the squat and install air bags. The thing that is really important is that once you have the WDH hooked up and properly adjusted, the trailer needs to sit level to slightly nose down. I had to get a ball with 1" rise to get our Reese DC to work out.

Is the second or third picture right?

[TomG2]

BarneyS wrote:
..snip......The OP has 6 links under tension which is just about perfect. ....snip.....Barney

I have owned many GM and Ford pickups. "None" referenced the number of links under tension or hanging in their setup instructions. They specify scales and body measurements. I can set up a hitch with the bars parallel and doing absolutely nothing for weight distribution.

[BarneyS]

Talk about "links under tension" meaning the number of links between the hook on the snap up bracket and the attachment point on the weight distribution bars. Doing it that way there is no confusion regardless of how many links the chain has.

The OP has 6 links under tension which is just about perfect. This allows the WD bars to be parallel with the tongue which will allow them to move somewhat evenly back and forth during turns. The chains will not move at all when used with the Dual Cam system such as he has. Only the bars slide over the cams during turns.

The only way for him to get more weight distributed to the front of his truck is to tilt the hitch head rearward some more. If that is not possible then he would need to go to stronger WD bars.

By the way, I would be replacing that electrical cord if it were me. That thing looks like it got caught between the hitch and the bars at some point and is seriously chewed up! :E
Barney

[TomG2]

bandit86 wrote:

Should all start measuring inches of chains

Why? Links of chain is about like saying, "It is as long as a piece of string".

[bandit86]

TomG2 wrote:
Measurements will get you to a starting point. Scales are the best and only weigh to know what you have got. Saying things like "three links" or "five links" only adds to the confusion. What if your chain has thirty links and mine only ten? How can you relate to that?

Should all start measuring inches of chains

[TomG2]

Measurements will get you to a starting point. Scales are the best and only weigh to know what you have got. Saying things like "three links" or "five links" only adds to the confusion. What if your chain has thirty links and mine only ten? How can you relate to that?

[RedRocket204]

bandit86 wrote:
Thanks for the links, I was misinformed about the purpose of the hitch. I'm not so worried now

No problem, glad it will be of some use.

Couple of other points that are covered in those links. 10% - 15% tongue weight (I should have qualified my above statement when mentioning nose loading your trailer).

On level ground, level your TT then measure the height from the ground to the inside top of the TT hitch ball coupler. Subtract 1/2" - 1" of the height and that is the max height of the top of the ball on your truck's hitch on the same level ground.

Most importantly, ALWAYS assume the person who setup your WDH did not fine tune it or completely set it up wrong. Learn your WDH system and fine tune it yourself making sure your trailer is loaded for travel when fine tuning your WDH.

[myredracer]

Nice vintage Reese dual cam hitch! Spring bars come in different ratings and the required rating depends on actual tongue weight. Maybe someone knows ratings on the older DC WDHs. If bars are too "light", it may not be possible to transfer enough weight but it's hard to tell by the info. so far. When the TH is fully loaded, it could be that the bars and hitch won't have high enough rating. I'd guess you'd need 1200 lb bars. If you do need more tension on the bars, it looks like the hitch head is already tilted as far as it can go tho. Going to a scale would be a very good idea to get weights and would be good to know with and without any toys in it.

The "crook" in one bar end isn't centered on the cam. It's important to have them centered when in a straight line and truck and trailer are fully loaded for a trip. Can be harder for a TH with the amount of tongue weight variation.

A bit of squat in the rear of a truck is normal and okay, usually around 1 -2". It might be that the 2 3/4" will reduce when the WDH is fully adjusted and ready to go. But then, the rear is 3" or more lower to start with and not sure if handling could be adversely affected? As long as you aren't exceeding payload or RAWR, squat is fine. Some don't like the squat and install air bags. The thing that is really important is that once you have the WDH hooked up and properly adjusted, the trailer needs to sit level to slightly nose down. I had to get a ball with 1" rise to get our Reese DC to work out.