cancel
Showing results forย 
Search instead forย 
Did you mean:ย 

Identifying Electric Short?

DougE
Explorer
Explorer
This is on a 2015 GMC Canyon but is really a generic question. There is a plate with non-replaceable fuses on top of the battery (see photo below). I would suspect this unit is quite expensive and only available from GM in the near future. If one of these fuses pops the entire assembly would be replaced although I think I could modify it for replaceable fuses by cutting off the existing fuses and drilling a few holes. After supposedly identifying a short on a normal fused circuit I would typically just stick in a low amp spade fuse and see if it pops. At the anticipated cost of this assembly, however, I really need to use a non-destructive method. What approach would you electric guru's suggest?
Currently Between RVs
24 REPLIES 24

westend
Explorer
Explorer
You could make a "catastrophic" replacement easy enough, something you could just bolt in place if you lose any functionality in the boonies. All you need is a piece (or two) of copper bar, a short battery cable, and the same size fuses.

Heck, this isn't that frightening, my BMW has an explosive charge on the positive cable. If the vehicle is in a bad accident, the charge detonates but leaves power to the lights and some other accessories. It shuts off power to everything else.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

DougE
Explorer
Explorer
It's a "what if" due to the unusual nature of this rig. It seems to be too new for any forum action (anywhere) yet. I don't want to be out in the boonies and then try to figure this out. Apparently no knowledge has been developed for this rig yet. Believe me, I've hunted.
Currently Between RVs

Hornnumb2
Explorer
Explorer
DougE wrote:
This is on a 2015 GMC Canyon but is really a generic question. There is a plate with non-replaceable fuses on top of the battery (see photo below). I would suspect this unit is quite expensive and only available from GM in the near future. If one of these fuses pops the entire assembly would be replaced although I think I could modify it for replaceable fuses by cutting off the existing fuses and drilling a few holes. After supposedly identifying a short on a normal fused circuit I would typically just stick in a low amp spade fuse and see if it pops. At the anticipated cost of this assembly, however, I really need to use a non-destructive method. What approach would you electric guru's suggest?


So do you currently have a short or this is just a what if? I would imagine that the fuses are protecting a fuse box down the line. So if something shorted it would blow the 20amp fuse before it would get to the 100amp main.

DougE
Explorer
Explorer
Somewhat, red31.
300a - Starter
250a - Underhood fuse block
100a - Instrument Panel Fuse Block
100a - Instrument Panel Fuse Block
100a - Cooling Fan Control Module
100a - Power Steering Control Module
See why I'm concerned?
Currently Between RVs

red31
Explorer
Explorer
it seems that all but the two big ones have many down stream fuses/breakers.

DougE
Explorer
Explorer
None of the GM parts sites are showing this part yet. Heck, most don't even have the 2015 Canyon. This rig is definitely different than the 2014. So I can't show you this thing out of the parts manual yet. I've been wrong before but all I can tell you is what my eyes are seeing.
Currently Between RVs

Salvo
Explorer
Explorer
That's how I see it.

enblethen wrote:
I would disconnect the battery, remove the clear plastic shield, then look as I am quite sure that the fuses are replaceable. Under the black protective cover there should be screws holding the hot side in place.

D_E_Bishop
Explorer
Explorer
YC 1 wrote:
Pop Rivet and silver solder a new one in place. A picture is already posted of the type than can be bolted in place.

That is, bolt the one end back on and solder the other end on with a pop rivet for good measure,.

In any case, you have plenty of warranty left so I would not give it much thought. If one of those pops you do have a very serious short. It is usually easy to find the source of the short. Just follow your nose to the source where the electrons ran out,.


YC 1, could you clarify something for me, I understood that electrons differ in smell from one manufacturer to the next, you know like propane is odorless and the smell is added for identification, is this accurate. I know the magic smoke in electrical components varies by components. A JK flip-flop smells different than a countdown IC.
"I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to go". R. L. Stevenson

David Bishop
2002 Winnebago Adventurer 32V
2009 GMC Canyon
Roadmaster 5000
BrakeBuddy Classic II

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
DougE wrote:
wa8yxm - I'm not trying to identify the blown fuse, I'm trying to verify the circuit is OK before sticking another fuse in.


Two options. Replace test light with a headlight
Or replace test light with a standard in-line fuse holder with say a 30 amp fuse in it. Same concept

you might also try an ammeter (fused at or below meter limit) as well.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
I would disconnect the battery, remove the clear plastic shield, then look as I am quite sure that the fuses are replaceable. Under the black protective cover there should be screws holding the hot side in place.
I would not do it until it is ever necessary!

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

DougE
Explorer
Explorer
Keep in mind that this is an RV forum and we may be out in the middle of nowhere where dealer-supplied parts may be a couple of hundred miles away. Needing these specialty parts rather than generic ones makes it seem like the manufacturers are trying harder to keep us tethered to them for repairs.
Currently Between RVs

YC_1
Nomad
Nomad
Pop Rivet and silver solder a new one in place. A picture is already posted of the type than can be bolted in place.

That is, bolt the one end back on and solder the other end on with a pop rivet for good measure,.

In any case, you have plenty of warranty left so I would not give it much thought. If one of those pops you do have a very serious short. It is usually easy to find the source of the short. Just follow your nose to the source where the electrons ran out,.
H/R Endeavor 2008
Ford F150 toad >Full Timers
Certified Senior Electronic Technician, Telecommunications Engineer, Telecommunications repair Service Center Owner, Original owner HR 2008

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
just away to have a GM specific "costly" part
if it blows you got a major problem, shorted starter ?

but i would probably replace it with discreet components
drill a holes and bolt in ANI fuses

as far as testing, before replacing, you need to know where that wire goes
then use a fused jumper wire for testing
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
I like using the BLUE SEA FUSE ASSEMBLIES available from AMAZON...





Another reason I like using theses type of connectons I get the use of another RING TERMINAL CONNECTIONs if needed for something else... All of my BATTERY CABLES uses RING TERMINALS...

Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS