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Improving a Suburban Furnace

mcewena
Explorer
Explorer
SF20 in my case.

It heats OK but it's just so **** noisy.

Has anybody modified the furnace to install a quieter fan? Less of an amp draw would be nice too.

We don't boondock enough to justify replacing it with a ductless diesel heater but that's probably the most economical solution.
15 REPLIES 15

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
mcewena wrote:


#1 Yes. To be honest it's been so long since I've run it (COVID etc) that I'd have difficulty describing the sound now but it's the sudden jet engine sound as it kicks on as opposed to any squeak so I assume it's combustion & air movement/pressure in the plenum.

#2I didn't suggest slowing down the fan, although if possible a larger fan could spin slower and produce the same volume. I was wondering if there was a replacement fan that drew less current and as a side benefit was quieter (better winding/bearings?). Thanks for the part #s Old-biscuit.

#3I considered baffling it with an office ceiling tile, there really isn't much room for anything thicker that would be both heat/sound tolerant (it's under the dinette bench) but it's hard to buy 1 ceiling tile and without blocking the air intake I wasn't sure that was going to be effective anyway.

#4The Winnebago plenum design doesn't look that efficient but by the time I fabricate an alternative I might be into the diesel heater price range.


#1, "jet engine" sound IS normal and to be expected.

RV furnaces basically are "turbo charging" the burner by forcing a high speed "draft" past the burner and through the heat exchanger via the dual sided fan. The downside of draft inducer system like this is it will increase the sound level of the burner and create a pretty good burner "rumble". That sound travels right through the heat exchanger walls and right into your RV interior. Some of that rumble is passed through as a vibration which can be transmitted to the wall and floor of the RV adds to the noise level.

It IS normal and to be expected on these furnaces.

The exhaust draft inducer IS a vital part of the burner and heat exchanger system, the heat exhangers the way they are fabricated and bent do not have enough natural flow for the exhaust gasses to move on their own which is why the inducer fan is included on the burner side.

#2 Can't just change the fan wheel size, while in theory the outside of the larger wheel would turn a bit slower, in reality what will happen is the larger wheel most likely will have MORE "FINS" resulting in MORE AIR FLOW resulting in MORE AIR NOISE. Technically, going with larger wheel in order to keep the CFM same, you would have to slow the RPMS of the motor. Now you could go with a larger and thinner wheel but then you have to alter the housing size to make that wheel work efficiently..

Brings up the next issue, increasing Wheel size and you would have to change the HOUSING of the wheel for the new wheel to fit and for best efficiency of the wheel.

The current draw of the fan is dependent on the speed (RPM) and the load on the motor. To reduce the current draw you would have to reduce the speed and the load with your current motor.

If you were to use a motor from a smaller furnace you would find that it will not produce enough airflow for the burner and interior fan.

Once again changing ANY of the CFMs of airflow WILL require changes to the burner and even the sail switch. You HAVE to reduce the burner flame and unless you have knowledge and equipment it is not a DIY change. Good chance you would end up burning more fuel (lower efficiency) and STILL the furnace will sound like a "jet engine".

#3, Never, ever block the cold air intake unless you have a death wish with taking chances of your furnace burning down your rig.

If you dig up the installer manual on your furnace it will give you very specific information on how many square inches of open space is required for the intake.

You may redirect the intake opening to another nearby cabinet or side of the existing cabinet as long as you have sufficient square inches of open space all the way to the new inlet opening.

#4 can't help you on the plenium issue vs cost, redirecting the cold air intake to a bit more remote area might take some of the edge off the sound but since it is under a dinette bench you have two other directions you could create a new opening under the dinnette or the backside of the dinnette if the current opening is on the end..

Redirecting the opening may help reduce the sound level a bit..

Adding some carpet on the outside dinette bench can absorb considerable amount of noise (soft fuzzy texture absorbs noise, solid hard surface reflects noise).

Redirecting opening to be a bit less direct and adding something like carpet to the dinette booth may prove very helpful..

I would not recommend using carpet inside the bench (although that would be effective for noise) due to possible encroachment of the furnace minimum required air space and flammability issues..

There are high temp noise control products but they tend to be on the expensive side..

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
You don't state age of Furnace. But, you can quiet it down by removing the Impellors and cleaning any dust/dirt debris on the Impellor blades. Also, if older, maybe replacing the Fan Motor. The old motor may have bearings making a slightly louder noise. Doug

PS. As others mentioned, you CANNOT replace the Motor with another motor that does NOT have the same exact RPM. The RPM is critical to all functions of a RV furnace regardless of brand or model.

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
Roar sounds more like a burner issue.
I would do a complete cleaning of the furnace including fans and burner assembly. Use a high pressure air blow gun. A vacuum is not strong enough.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

mcewena
Explorer
Explorer
jodeb720 wrote:
Mcewena - I'm going out on a limb here and assume you're complaining about the noise the furnace makes - not the sounds that come from it. E.g. A squeaky motor or something like that.



Thanks for the constructive response.

Yes. To be honest it's been so long since I've run it (COVID etc) that I'd have difficulty describing the sound now but it's the sudden jet engine sound as it kicks on as opposed to any squeak so I assume it's combustion & air movement/pressure in the plenum.

I didn't suggest slowing down the fan, although if possible a larger fan could spin slower and produce the same volume. I was wondering if there was a replacement fan that drew less current and as a side benefit was quieter (better winding/bearings?). Thanks for the part #s Old-biscuit.

I considered baffling it with an office ceiling tile, there really isn't much room for anything thicker that would be both heat/sound tolerant (it's under the dinette bench) but it's hard to buy 1 ceiling tile and without blocking the air intake I wasn't sure that was going to be effective anyway.

The Winnebago plenum design doesn't look that efficient but by the time I fabricate an alternative I might be into the diesel heater price range.

jodeb720
Explorer
Explorer
Mcewena - I'm going out on a limb here and assume you're complaining about the noise the furnace makes - not the sounds that come from it. E.g. A squeaky motor or something like that.

There are quite a few posts regarding 'baffling' the sound the furnace makes. Just to be clear, the link above by Old-Buscuit contains the minimum amount of square inches of return air as well as output air (return is 55 sq inches, output is 25 sq inches - see pages 2 & 3.

Sound - travels straight. If you provide a path for the air to travel - but make the sound try to bend around a corner or other padded path, then the amount of sound you hear will be reduced. how much is all based on where you are when the sound exits.

I'm sure 2oldman will keep me honest, but he's the king of all searches and can (and probably will) post some of the links to reduce your sound.

bottom line with sound. If it's a mechanical problem, you'll need to fix it. If it's a sound issue with a functional furnace, then it's a baffling problem (no pun intended) that's going to really help you reduce your sound level

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
Old-Biscuit wrote:
Your model uses a 3" fan motor (232682/with gasket or 232650/without gasket)
Rated at 8.5A at 300 CFM

The room air wheel is 350129

The combustion wheel is 350189


Noise could be motor bushings, room wheel dirty/vanes missing, combustion wheel dirty/vanes missing
OR one of the wheels loose/scraping against housing

Only YOU can find out by disassembly and inspecting


SF20 Installation Manual


OP didn't specifically say what KIND of noise their furnace is making, but if they are wanting to slow down the motor, I guarantee that it is not from "noisy bearings" or bushings or dust/dirt stuck to the wheel.

Pretty much ALL RV furnaces make a very loud sound from the wheel spinning fast creating a high velocity air movement, sometimes causing whistling in the air vents.. Think like when you turn a big fan on at high speed or like your roof A/C unit the difference in sound level from low speed to high speed..

Slowing the fan down on a RV furnace may help some of the sound level but in doing so may have unintended consequences like overheating and damaging the heat exchanger, overheating the furnace cabinet which potentially could cause combustible materials near the furnace to ignite. Overheating internal wiring of the furnace, overheating the furnace control board due to heat build up internally.

In reality, to slow the fan down safely, you would nearly have to re engineer the furnace to produce less heat from the burner.

Over time, I have gotten used to the noise, they all make it, mine has from new and sometimes the sound can be soothing and even drown out outside noise..

Worst comes to worst, try a set of in ear hearing protectors, cuts sound levels by 29 DB, pretty good chance you won't even notice the furnace noise with those in..

profdant139
Explorer II
Explorer II
A noisy furnace is not a problem -- it's an advantage! The noise is so unpleasant that it reminds us not to use it unless absolutely necessary (like at shower time every evening). That thing is an electricity hog!

Yes, that means that the interior of our trailer is cold, especially when we are snow camping. As the Eskimos supposedly say, "There is no bad weather, only bad clothing." Bundle up! ๐Ÿ˜‰

Seriously, though, if there were a way to make it both quieter and more energy efficient, I would jump at the chance to do so.
2012 Fun Finder X-139 "Boondock Style" (axle-flipped and extra insulation)
2013 Toyota Tacoma Off-Road (semi-beefy tires and components)
Our trips -- pix and text
About our trailer
"A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single list."

frankwp
Explorer
Explorer
My furnace is pretty noisy, but it gets used so infrequently that I haven't bothered to do anything about it. It is in a large cabinet under the fridge with lots of room on all sides of the furnace. One day I'll put some acoustic duct liner insulation on the cabinet walls & top & a baffle between the furnace & return air grill. There are several inches between the two, so airflow won't be adversely affected.
2010 Cruiser CF30QB
2003 GM 2500HD, crew cab, SB, 8.1, Allison

Dusty_R
Explorer
Explorer
If you are hooked up to 120 volt outside power most of the time you might consider installing a toe-kick heater, and install it under the sink. Hook it to the same circuit as the air condoner.

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
Your model uses a 3" fan motor (232682/with gasket or 232650/without gasket)
Rated at 8.5A at 300 CFM

The room air wheel is 350129

The combustion wheel is 350189


Noise could be motor bushings, room wheel dirty/vanes missing, combustion wheel dirty/vanes missing
OR one of the wheels loose/scraping against housing

Only YOU can find out by disassembly and inspecting


SF20 Installation Manual
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
Cleaning fan blades may help. Both combustion and circulatory.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Add additional ducting for more airflow. Fan does not work as hard, should draw less power per BTU moved, and the RV will heat faster to give less run time.

Sjm9911
Explorer
Explorer
Sometimes oil can help. Depends what kind of noise were talking about. Things that dont move get gummy.
2012 kz spree 220 ks
2020 Silverado 2500
Equalizer ( because i have it)
Formerly a pup owner.

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
Simple answer is you can't.

You can't put a slower fan or fan motor (which would be quieter) in there.

You can't slow down the motor as the furnace WILL over heat and not to mention the same motor serves a dual purpose. One side of the fan blower is for the inside and the other side of the fan blower is the draft inducer for the burner.

Alter either and now you have a non safe or non functional furnace.

Additionally the furnace has a safety switch called the sail switch which will prevent the burner from firing if there is not enough air movement, don't bypass that..

2oldman, that is a pretty dangerous path to go down and I highly doubt you are going to be able to pull this off safely or reliably and not to mention it would take a considerable drop in RPM to reduce the fan noise.. Any drop in RPM will affect not just your inside fan but the draft inducer fan for the burner since both fans SHARE the same motor.. If I were you, I would PM the resident RV furnace guru Dougrainer BEFORE attempting. I suspect he will pretty much say the same thing I have though. Not to mention it will be one whopper of a resistor as far as wattage goes..