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Lubricating the Push-Pull Black Water Valve?

precioustime
Explorer II
Explorer II
My Storm 28MS has the standard push pull valve to empty the waste in the tank. At times it is difficult to pull and push that handle on the valve. Anyway to lubricate that valve? I saw a video once that said I could drill a small hole above the opening and attach a flat pan head screw in order to spray the inside of the valve with WD-40 or some other lubricant then attach the screw back. Another article said to pour some liquid in the kitchen sink. Of course both of these ideas are done after the tank has been drained. any suggestions?
24 REPLIES 24

BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
Moved to Tech Issues forum from DIY.
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
"Another article said to pour some liquid in the kitchen sink"

Highly unlikely your kitchen sink drains into your black tank.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
IAMICHABOD wrote:
I will heartily agree with DutchmanSport,all that stuff is expensive snake oil,and a waste of money.

I have used the method in the Clicky for many years and I am here to tell you this really works!

Don't waste your money on that other stuff,this method is easy and cheap. I use white lithium grease and have never had a stuck valve.


I have cable operated valves hidden inside the belly cover. I drilled and installed very small vinyl tubing following the cable to the handle. I tested silicone spray on the old valve first and found that is swelled the rubber shaft seal making matters worse. Motor oil worked just fine.

Much of the problem that causes sticking valves is that the area where the valve blade resides when open is exposed to the material in the waste water. To help reduce the amount of that nice stuff in there, the shaft should be angled upward and straight up would be best.

SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Explorer III
That is a slick (pun intended) idea. Going to do mine ahead of time before I put my TC in the truck this year. My dump valves are exposed.
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

IAMICHABOD
Explorer II
Explorer II
I will heartily agree with DutchmanSport,all that stuff is expensive snake oil,and a waste of money.

I have used the method in the Clicky for many years and I am here to tell you this really works!

Don't waste your money on that other stuff,this method is easy and cheap. I use white lithium grease and have never had a stuck valve.
2006 TIOGA 26Q CHEVY 6.0 WORKHORSE VORTEC
Former El Monte RV Rental
Retired Teamster Local 692
Buying A Rental Class C

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
Just thinking out loud here; I wonder if using some very fine steel wool on the shaft just to clean it up and then applying a little paraffin wax or plumbers grease would smooth one out.

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
DutchmenSport wrote:
Well, don't waste your money on the stuff you pour down your toilet and it's suppose to lube the slide valve. I think that was the biggest waste of money I ever spent on any of my campers. I tried two bottles, and it never made any difference.


Well I found exactly the opposite ... Thetford Drain Valve Lubricant made my next to impossible to move black water valve move easily. :B
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

DutchmenSport
Explorer
Explorer
Well, don't waste your money on the stuff you pour down your toilet and it's suppose to lube the slide valve. I think that was the biggest waste of money I ever spent on any of my campers. I tried two bottles, and it never made any difference. So, in my opinion, that is just a bunch of snake oil, a way to get you to separate with your money. Shoot! It didn't even work on the slade valve in my toilet bowl. That dang thing still stuck.


Here's what you are talking about from Trailer Life Magazine, 10 minute tech: I've never done this because my slides are all enclosed. I've have to cut the colorplast to access them. Sounds logical though, like it might work.

Click here.

wildtoad
Explorer II
Explorer II
Some of the waste tank deodorizer products say they lubricate the valves. I don’t know how effective they are. I have had relatively good success in just lubricanting the metal shafts with either a spray silicone lube or a grease. WD40 is a good cleaner but not a lube. There really isn’t much you can do when the valve is in the closed position.
Tom Wilds
Blythewood, SC
2016 Newmar Baystar Sport 3004
2015 Jeep Wrangler 2dr HT

Dick_B
Explorer
Explorer
Search this Forum for `Black Tank Valves' and read the suggestions. Depending on how old is the rig you might want to consider replacing the valve with Valterra. If the handle does not have a name on it it is probably a Bristol.
Dick_B
2003 SunnyBrook 27FKS
2011 3/4 T Chevrolet Suburban
Equal-i-zer Hitch
One wife, two electric bikes (both Currie Tech Path+ models)