Need to replace my water pump

[maillemaker]

My water pump has started leaking. It was made in 08/1990, so it's probably time.

The original pump was a Shurflow 2088-403-144. This is a 3-chamber pump that shuts off at 45 PSI and does 2.8 GPM and draws 4.6 amps max.

http://www.fourwh.com/2088-403-144.pdf

I emailed Shurflow and they recommended:

4008-101-E65

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/shurflo-revolution-water-pump/49007

This is a 4-chamber pump that shuts off at 55 PSI and does 3 GPM and draws 7 amps max.

This is an old RV and I don't want to stress the plumbing system by increasing the PSI, nor do I need increased power draw.

I've emailed Shurflow back to confirm their recommendation.

What do you all think?

This looks like a better match to me?

https://www.freshwatersystems.com/specifications/2088-554-144.pdf

Steve

[j-d]

Looked at the pic. That's awful! We have two of those pumps, one in the coach and another for the transom swim shower on our boat. Both are much more accessible. I can see why you'd want a new pump. The contortions you'll go to to access the thing is enough to hope a new one'll keep you from ever doing it again.
You motivated me. The boat pump's been off for well over a year, not working. Last night I took it apart. Pump off one end, then both end bells. Found the brushes and commutator dirty. Maybe I used too much grease on the brush end the last time I worked on it.
Anyhow, I figured out a couple tricks to get the armature back in with the brushes in contact, reassembled and it runs, also pumps.
But... I think the micro-switch that's the "Switch" in "Pressure Switch" is balky.

[maillemaker]

This is why it's not accessible. 🙂

http://imgur.com/a/scpOY

Even when I disconnect the heater hose there is just no room to get in their and even if I undid the clamps securing them to the floor the water pipes to under the floor/carpet and there is no service loop to pull up the plumbing to get at those valves.

Steve

[maillemaker]

The drain valves are not accessible. There are 4. 2 are under my bed near the water pump, the other two are under the bathroom sink. There is not enough room under the sink to be able to get at the valves nor enough service loop in the plumbing to get at them. I think you'd have to rip out the bathroom sink to get at them to replace them.

Won't this fix it?

Amazon Parts for 2088

Possibly. The leak seemed to be between the plastic housing and the aluminum housing.

But the thing is 26 years old. I'm going to replace the whole pump.

I bought the one Shurflow recommended. It is supposed to be quieter than the original, which will be nice.

Steve

[MrWizard]

he did not say waste or dump valves
he said drain valves
he might mean water system drain valves, used when winterizing
the could be under the RV or in the lowest point of the basement storage

[Happy_Prospecto]

Maybe better keep some towels handy. Just wondering why your waste valves are not accessible?


The information is out there, all you have to do is let it in.

[j-d]

Won't this fix it?

Amazon Parts for 2088

[maillemaker]

You can put in whatever works. I'm not sure why you're concerned about such a small power draw.

Mostly I'm concerned about increased pressure in the plumbing.

My drain valves already leak, and are not accessible to replace. At least the two under the bathroom sink are not.

They mostly leak when if they are stuck in between fully open and fully closed, but weep even when closed.

But I'm mostly curious why they would spec out a pump with different operating parameters from the original when it seems like there is a pump out there that matches the original specifications almost exactly.

Original pump:
2088-403-144
http://www.fourwh.com/2088-403-144.pdf
Factory Shutoff: 45 PSI
Max Flow: 2.8 GPM
Max Current: 4.6 amps

Supposed replacement:
4008-101-E65
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/shurflo-revolution-water-pump/49007
Factory Shutoff: 55 PSI
Max Flow: 3.0 GPM
Max Current: 7.5 amps

Best match I found:

https://www.freshwatersystems.com/specifications/2088-554-144.pdf
Factory Shutoff: 45 PSI
Max Flow: 3.5 GPM
Max Current: 5.2 amps

Also the physical form factor of the best match I found matches the form factor of the original more closely.

[j-d]

There are diaphragm kits for these. Or did they drop it with the pump?

[DrewE]

The difference in pressure is very unlikely to cause any problems. You can easily get higher pressures if you connect to city water (especially without a regulator), if you fire up the water heater from a cold start with all the taps firmly shut, or even due to the momentum of the flowing water when you turn it off quickly.

The only reason I can see the power draw being a problem is if the branch circuit is underspecified and has a 5 amp fuse. If that's the case, upgrading it is not a bad idea regardless.

I would go with the newer model myself in your situation. The shutoff pressure is apparently adjustable, by the way. Setting it to a lower pressure and perhaps installing an accumulator tank (if you don't have one) so it doesn't cycle too much would be reasonable if you wished to do that.

[pasusan]

SoundGuy wrote:
The Shurflo Classic i.e. -144 model - has been discontinued. The Revolution is a perfect but much better performing replacement ... own one myself. 🙂

Same here. Our old pump was a 1990 version also. Replaced a couple of years ago with the 4008 (Revolution). Has worked very well.

[SoundGuy]

The Shurflo Classic i.e. -144 model - has been discontinued. The Revolution is a perfect but much better performing replacement ... own one myself. 🙂

[2oldman]

You can put in whatever works. I'm not sure why you're concerned about such a small power draw.