Norcold Fridge Problem

[jbrack]

I have a 2017 5th Wheel with a double door Norcold fridge. We have been up in Alaska and all around the Yukon, BC, and Alberta where we encountered RV parks with poor electrical service. At two places we were on generator power and I know I was not getting the proper amps I need. My RV is designed to run on 50 amp but I use a 30 amp adapter like everyone else does. My fridge has always performed perfectly but now I have to put the temp setting on 9 to keep the temp inside in the safe zone. My question is did I damage my fridge by using low amperage power? It won't stay cold on straight propane either.

[Lynnmor]

You should NOT cut plywood without reading the installation manual. Certain baffles are required.

[pianotuna]

The blocking may be there intentionally. Take a picture and post it here.

[Old-Biscuit]

NO!!!!!

That plywood is a BAFFLE to help direct the airflow up thru absorber tubes then up and acroos condenser fins then out the upper vent

Baffle is a good thing.

Fans NOT running is major problem of NO Cooling

As suggested JUMPER the 2 wires togther on t-stat and see if fans come on.
If they do REPLACE the t-stat

Did you open the link and look at the pgs ????
Look at pg 34


Better yet...read the whole Service Manual

[Happytraveler]

We had a blockage in our 8 month old Norcold Fridge. We had to cancel our month vacation. We had Norcold tech come out on vacation and nothing was accomplished. So we headed home and took the RV to our local our RV shop. It took 6 weeks for Norcold to do anything. After testing,etc. Norcold decided to install a new cooling system. We ended buying a 4 year warranty on the unit.

[jbrack]

Ok...I located the fans behind the upper panel. Two fans and neither was turning. There is a 1/8"plywood coming up from below that completely blocks the view of the fans. The fins are out in the open but the fans are down behind the plywood. Should I cut that plywood out of there? Cant imagine what purpose it serves. Seems like it is just blocking air flow.

[larry_cad]

That has to be the longest URL I have ever seen! WOW!!

[garyemunson]

There WILL be fans. To see them you'll have to be on a ladder looking down into the upper vent. The thermostat for them is a small disk-like thing screwed to one of the upper fins with two wires. Putting a jumper across the two wires should make the fans run. Thoses sensors are VERY prone to failing.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Norcold-618093-Cooling-Fan-Refrigerator-Thermostat/162493721250?epid=1027921925&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item25d5616aa2:g:m-4AAOSwRJpbczx7&enc=AQAEAAAB8BPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qVwB%2F46Aob8b2mgyxZi30ekzeHmNVqUG48cztUnAXkgzniF5wv46Z58Vl6Qr5qOQ3YLOQrNHlsdg6h2jFEYYX9RdhFxJJ932g8FGwRVd1cmOcBZOZlVsQvqsHBNW4IuLUwf9yIEYKO77cCVdSZUkBRoHrThxWEPGvEQvvs%2BJtzjn3zzT3%2BCpL3KJwItPF6L7mgUbVvro6yWJK%2FK1YPBZTxHkbOSY1qEcMm%2F4oXGVEqdqGlWVlzhidWWwwwf1gmqeFFlNmr6ZMm%2BcLh7G5KR5eq51cd4h%2B4d7YFr83wr7v84zd3AFGq%2BAbJkFWaC%2Ff08g932f2Ccgi%2BoqUTEDVWk%2BsjMGZnw8lxKDXk57DzYmrMP8qMHo8M6QkjEH9Y3Qzzq7rz0QiX1FIOgQtsPOl18bM9y7VHSFKPGuiqpQF3M98vJWATmA4AyVy%2FjKL%2BQLRVyvh5YKeq9rgcPa4UcLAt10uqQODJdtS%2Fpt%2B%2BMOLnwGaEsw2Ek5c4cVbrjXBqRW7nCKn9I898rCLoM90f7Y6dPAzn3%2FNLZPVjymvaipRYU3VqoD2vzEv9OMUY17Y2%2FVgdetr%2BYxv9zn6sIiOYWY%2FsX6srbtkarVvJIAqcTa6F%2FeYAE1L11znClLT%2Ff4RhsPfth%2FqQ%3D&checksum=16249372125048006aa4fcfe426698d7f290c1e6f5b0

[Old-Biscuit]

A Norcold 1210 IN a SLIDE should have external fans otherwise draft (airflow) is minimized.

Remove Upper Vent and look DOWN you will see the fans
Thermostat to controls fans is attached to the condenser Fin


DC+ comes from the 10 pin connector ion circuit board (Pin 5/Red wire)
Goes to thermostat on condenser fin and then to the dual fans

See pgs 48,49 & 70

1210 Service Manual

[DFord]

I neglected to mention there should be a couple of muffin fans (like in computers) in back of the refrigerator that cycle on when the refrigerator is hot and trying to cool down. You should hear them running most of the day especially when the sun's shining on that side. You might need a mirror to look up behind the refrigerator to see them. If they're not running when they should, the refrigerator can't reject the heat and its ability to cool down inside is curtailed.

[ScottG]

pianotuna wrote:

... I'd immediately invest in the ARP unit to prevent further overheating.

X2 and the ARP can control fans to improve performance.
You may have fan(s) but the thermostat to turn them on has quit.
Mine lasted one weekend when new. Now I use the ARP to control them.

[pianotuna]

Hi,

You may have a partial blockage of the cooling system.

Damage may happen in as little is 15 minutes.

Some folks have had occasional success by using a vibrating type electric sander (with no sand paper) placed on the tubing and running it for a time. This is pretty much a "Hail Mary" but if you have the tools...

Some others have had occasional success by taking the fridge out and "rolling it" over and over to try to dislodge the clog. Again this is a "Hail Mary".

If either of these work for you, I'd immediately invest in the ARP unit to prevent further overheating.

[jbrack]

DFord wrote:
The newer models are much more forgiving than the old ones BUT, leveling is still PARAMOUNT! The fluids that circulate inside the coils are dependent on the refrigerator being level to return and work effectively. Front to back is critical and side to side is very important. Operating very long off level can cause the fluids to solidify and if that happens, you've ruined your refrigerator.

Having been on marginal power is not the cause of your problem.

Great info...thank you

[DFord]

The newer models are much more forgiving than the old ones BUT, leveling is still PARAMOUNT! The fluids that circulate inside the coils are dependent on the refrigerator being level to return and work effectively. Front to back is critical and side to side is very important. Operating very long off level can cause the fluids to solidify and if that happens, you've ruined your refrigerator.

Having been on marginal power is not the cause of your problem.

[jbrack]

larry cad wrote:
Is your rig level? It is critical on the norcolds that they be level in order to operate properly.

It wasn't when I was recently doing an overnight in a parking lot and I was on propane. I suspected that might play a role in this but I have since relocated to an RV park and I am level but still with 30 amp and still having issues