questions.... I have them.. :D

[coolmom42]

1) the fresh water tank fill on my motorhome is the kind where you have to hook up a hose and have pressure on it, to fill, just like the "city water". I would prefer to have a gravity fill so water can be added from a jug, or from a hose, using this adapter that I already have. I also really dislike messing around with screwing the hose on.

Question 1: How big a deal would it be to change out that opening and is it something a person with a few skills could do herself?

I'm also planning to winterize by blowing out the lines, rather than pink stuff (except the traps, of course.) I may go back and forth a few times a year doing this, so it seems less hassle than removing all the stuff in the storage space, taking off a panel, using the pump, and then reversing the process before very long. I have a small compressor and hose.

Question 2: Is this the fitting I need?


Question 3: Are there any particular pitfalls to winterizing using compressed air? I've been googling around and reading here.

[coolmom42]

I went out and did some measuring with regard to level of the water inlet and tank. The inlet is about 4" lower than the tank. Thus the need for pressure to fill, and a gravity fill from that point won't work. I think my solution is going to be some quick connect fittings, to make life easier for my arthritic right hand. Turning those hose fittings HURTS.


I'm still debating about the winterizing. Agreed, antifreeze is simple. I think I'll take off panel in the storage compartment, and see how easy the pump is to access. I may add an access door for the pump.

Campgrounds without water at the site (common around here) often have unthreaded faucets scattered around. Will one of those water thief adapter things hold on well enough to get a pressurized fill? Or do they pop off pretty easily? I've only ever used one for a gravity fill tank.

[BFL13]

Not much use for OP yet, but BurbMan can note this does not need a funnel.

https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/20-litre-water-can/A-p8570798e

It is for potable water. Only thing is it is heavy when full! I have to stand on a chair beside the gravity fill to get the can high enough to pour it in, and it gets lighter as it empties but not fast enough that it is not a strain on you for the first while. Works though!

Of course, you don't have to fill it, but then it is more trips to the water tap to fill the RV. Also you need a short hose to go from the water tap to the can for filling it, depending on where the water tap is.

I have also used a water pump that fits on an electric drill and used that from the RV's inverter, pulling water up from an open bucket. MSW inverter has the drill turn slower (my impression anyway) but it was enough for this job.

[valhalla360]

BurbMan wrote:
I have yet to see a gravity fill where you don't need a funnel to fill from a jug. So I wind up balancing a flexible funnel while trying to pour a 5 gal jug into it. Seems much easier to have a spare 12v pump as was mentioned...build a little rig so you can screw the output to the fill valve and stick the suction end in the water jug.

Get ahold of a short piece of PVC pipe and a 90 degree bend. A 6-8inch piece that sticks into the inlet hole connected to the 90 degree bend and a 2 inch piece sticking up from the 90 degree (we just dry fit and it's worked without leaking or falling apart). Now a funnel sits upright and the water is directed into the inlet with ease.

[valhalla360]

coolmom42 wrote:
1) the fresh water tank fill on my motorhome is the kind where you have to hook up a hose and have pressure on it, to fill, just like the "city water". I would prefer to have a gravity fill so water can be added from a jug, or from a hose, using this adapter that I already have. I also really dislike messing around with screwing the hose on.

Question 1: How big a deal would it be to change out that opening and is it something a person with a few skills could do herself?

I'm also planning to winterize by blowing out the lines, rather than pink stuff (except the traps, of course.) I may go back and forth a few times a year doing this, so it seems less hassle than removing all the stuff in the storage space, taking off a panel, using the pump, and then reversing the process before very long. I have a small compressor and hose.

Question 2: Is this the fitting I need?


Question 3: Are there any particular pitfalls to winterizing using compressed air? I've been googling around and reading here.

1) Depends on how deeply buried the tank is. If you can get easy access to the inlet on the tank, it's a pretty easy thing to change out. If they have buried it and it's major surgery to get access, it can be a major project.

3) I find using antifreeze simpler. Air works if you do it right but it's easy to miss some water. If the hot water tank drain plug is removed and you have pink stuff flowing from every outlet (both hot and cold), there is really no question. If you are worried that it's hard to get at the pump to connect, add a longer hose once so it's easy to get to. Usually only takes a couple gallons to do most RVs and if it's easy access to the antifreeze hose, maybe 15 minutes to winterize. (PS: don't forget to drain the fresh water tank, there is usually a line coming out the bottom).

[BurbMan]

Yes that is the correct fitting. You should limit pressure to 45psi or less, so if you use 25 that should be fine. Be sure to open the low point drains so that water can run out. Ideally, if you open the low point drains on the hot/cold lines and the FW tank, the rig should self drain...all you are doing with the compressed air is making sure no puddles remain in case there are any "bellies" in the water lines.

Regarding the gravity fill, how easy it is to change that fitting depends entirely on where the hose fitting is. A gravity fill is larger than a hose fitting so you need to be sure a fill fitting will fit in that spot. Also you have the hose to consider...the hose from a gravity fill port to the FW tank is usually 1 1/2", if you have a hose fitting there the line to the tank is probably 3/4" Pex.

Rigs with gravity fill also have the check valve at the pump, so water doesn't flow back into the tank when hooked up to city water. If you have a hose fitting, the check valve may very well be there like it is on the city water fitting. So lot's more to consider than just changing the fitting...

I have yet to see a gravity fill where you don't need a funnel to fill from a jug. So I wind up balancing a flexible funnel while trying to pour a 5 gal jug into it. Seems much easier to have a spare 12v pump as was mentioned...build a little rig so you can screw the output to the fill valve and stick the suction end in the water jug.

Post a few pics and we can dig into some of these potential issues.

[coolmom42]

I will take a look for any hidden gravity fill.

I'm not sure if the current location is higher than the tank or not, really hadn't thought about that. Will do some measurements. The tank is under the bed. Thanks for pointing that out.

[wa8yxm]

You very likely DO have a gravity fill somewhere (perhaps on the other side) it will MOST LIKELY behind a square panel about 6" inches square (4 to 😎 with a key lock. Most common key is a CH751

On at least one motor home model it's under the hood but usually out in the open.

[DrewE]

That fitting would be fine for blowing out the lines. I assembled a veryd similar one from various adapters and fittings from Home Depot (male garden hose to 1/2" NPT, 1/2" NPT to 1/4" NPT bushing, 1/4" air quick connect fitting).

There's nothing particularly noteworthy about blowing out the water lines for winterization; just take your time and go through everything a couple times to get as much water as possible out (operating one tap at a time). Obviously it's also necessary to drain the water heater and fresh water tank, etc. I generally set the compressor regulator at 40 psi, but the actual pressure when the lines are being blown out drops a whole lot, and that's just fine.

Adding a gravity fill might be hard depending on where your water tank is. You need to have the fill port higher than the water tank, and if it's directly under the bed (for example) that can mean finding a way to get the gravity fill port up perhaps five or six feet above the ground...and having to put water in from that point as well. If you don't have water pressure available, it is possible to pump water into the tank with a winterization inlet port by setting the valves to winterize and opening the fill valve.

[enblethen]

I use the one with schrader valve.
Blow out plug

[Dutch_12078]

wopachop wrote:
Post pics.

Of what?

[wopachop]

Post pics.

[Dutch_12078]

My 77 year old hands have trouble screwing hose fittings tightly together, so I equipped my water hoses and city water port with quick disconnects that make the job much easier. I found the brass QD's linked below to be more reliable and longer lasting than the cheaper plastic or brass colored aluminium kind.

ShowNew Garden Hose Quick Connectors, Solid Brass

[TenOC]

On my 5th wheel the fresh water tank have a overflow/vent that is covered by a square plastic housing. Push up hard on the housing and it pops off. Then you can attach a gravity fill funnel to fill the tank.


Click For Full-Size Image.

[coolmom42]

agesilaus wrote:
Many just carry a 12V water pump and pump out of a jug into the tank. I would not commit surgery on my piping unless forced to do so. My 12V was a spare water pump and sure enough my water pump croaked this summer.

Whatever you do do not pressurize the plumbing system beyond it's design limits.

I don't think this really surgery, it's just a fitting at the end of a line. 😄

From what I've read, 25 PSI is adequate for winterizing and that is what I plan to use.

[Sjm9911]

You fill you tank probably theough the same hose for the winterizing thats attached to your pump. You could elongate that line to the outside or underside and use it that way also. As was said you can get a separate pump and fill from a bucket also. Changing out to a gravity feed can be done, but you have to have acess to the water tank and make some holes in the camper to do it. Probably not worth it. Easier to drill a hole in the bottem of the camper and extend the winterizing line. ( just check that yours fills the tank that way, check the owners manual)
I would use antifreeze myself, i dont know how you can blow out the water in the water pump on a camper. If it doesn't get that cold during the winter it may not matter. The choice and chance is yours to make.