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Rust on exterior, from inside drip rail/rain gutter.

apr67
Explorer
Explorer
My 2016 Jayco TT 32BHDS has a couple of streaks of rust on the outside. Looking at it closer, it seems to be running from under the drip rail/rain gutter on the top of the RV. When looking at it closely, it looks like jayco didn't seal the underside of the drip rail in random spots, so I guess that is the cause.

So I'm going to buy some Geocel 28100V and seal the spots they missed. I am wondering if I should do anything else, like spray some anti rust spray in a few days before and then wipe the surface clean, or once it is sealed do you think the rust will stop?
2017 Thor Hurricane 34J
Gone-2014 Chevy Express 3500
Gone-2016 Jayco White Hawk 32DSBH
Gone-2013 Keystone Bullet 294BHS
Gone-2007 National SurfSide 34DE
Gone-2006 ForestRiver Sunseeker 2900LTD
Gone-1994 Fleetwood PaceArrow
Gone-1978 Kit RoadRanger
12 REPLIES 12

apr67
Explorer
Explorer
Ralph Cramden wrote:

Looking at the picture thats a sure sign of lack of maintenance.

Either the gutter was full of debris for a long period of time allowing water to lay in that area getting into the snap in trim, or the snap in trim cracked or pulled out of the extrusion. The screws would not rust that much on a 2016 in a few years unless something allowed water to be in constant contact with them.

You can blame Jayco, but thats the same way just about every, if not all manufacturers do a roof termination at the sidewall. The top of the rail appears well sealed to the roof membrane in the picture.


The gutter was and is not full of debris, and even if it was, the screws are a good 1/2" above the gutter. The snap in trim is in fine shape, but its no match for rain driven at 55mph. The problem isn't maintenance, its either poor choice of screws or poor finish. Every screw, on both sides of the RV has a rusty head just like the ones in the example.
2017 Thor Hurricane 34J
Gone-2014 Chevy Express 3500
Gone-2016 Jayco White Hawk 32DSBH
Gone-2013 Keystone Bullet 294BHS
Gone-2007 National SurfSide 34DE
Gone-2006 ForestRiver Sunseeker 2900LTD
Gone-1994 Fleetwood PaceArrow
Gone-1978 Kit RoadRanger

Ralph_Cramden
Explorer II
Explorer II
apr67 wrote:
So as it turns out I was kinda wrong and right.

The head of every screw holding the drip rail on is rusty as hell. However the only rust on the side is where they failed to caulk the underside.

So I am going to caulk it and ignore it, knowing that Jayco did a cr@p job and that this driprail will fail and delam down the road.


Looking at the picture thats a sure sign of lack of maintenance.

Either the gutter was full of debris for a long period of time allowing water to lay in that area getting into the snap in trim, or the snap in trim cracked or pulled out of the extrusion. The screws would not rust that much on a 2016 in a few years unless something allowed water to be in constant contact with them.

You can blame Jayco, but thats the same way just about every, if not all manufacturers do a roof termination at the sidewall. The top of the rail appears well sealed to the roof membrane in the picture.
Too many geezers, self appointed moderators, experts, and disappearing posts for me. Enjoy. How many times can the same thing be rehashed over and over?

Woodtroll
Explorer
Explorer
If I understand your last post correctly, you are going to caulk the underside joint between the drip rail and the sidewall, which is only going to trap water behind the drip rail. The fact that rust is running down your wall means that water is getting through the screw holes in the gutter, and maybe all the way into your wall. If you stop the water from running out from behind the gutter, where will that water go?

As you've already been advised, I think the smart thing to do is remove and replace the screws, and caulk behind each one as you go. You can do them one at a time, so you don't have to remove the gutter. If you don't stop the water from getting behind the gutter, you are going to have bigger problems.

It is also possible that the builder didn't seal the top edge of the gutter, where the rubber roof tucks behind it. While you're up there, clean and caulk this joint as well. The Geocell caulk you mentioned should be a good choice for both jobs, just stay away from silicone caulk.

Finally, make sure your gutter is cleaned out, straight, and drains water. It looks as though it's trapping and holding water, judging from those rust stains at the screws.

Good luck!
Regan
2003 F250XL 4WD 7.3L Crewcab LB, 6 speed; Prodigy brake controller; Big Tex grille guard/ deer deflector. Canoe hauler and camping truck extraordinaire!
2003 Layton 242 Scout- Extra batteries, solar panels, LED lighting, and propane for boondocking.

apr67
Explorer
Explorer
2017 Thor Hurricane 34J
Gone-2014 Chevy Express 3500
Gone-2016 Jayco White Hawk 32DSBH
Gone-2013 Keystone Bullet 294BHS
Gone-2007 National SurfSide 34DE
Gone-2006 ForestRiver Sunseeker 2900LTD
Gone-1994 Fleetwood PaceArrow
Gone-1978 Kit RoadRanger

apr67
Explorer
Explorer
So as it turns out I was kinda wrong and right.

The head of every screw holding the drip rail on is rusty as hell. However the only rust on the side is where they failed to caulk the underside.

So I am going to caulk it and ignore it, knowing that Jayco did a cr@p job and that this driprail will fail and delam down the road.
2017 Thor Hurricane 34J
Gone-2014 Chevy Express 3500
Gone-2016 Jayco White Hawk 32DSBH
Gone-2013 Keystone Bullet 294BHS
Gone-2007 National SurfSide 34DE
Gone-2006 ForestRiver Sunseeker 2900LTD
Gone-1994 Fleetwood PaceArrow
Gone-1978 Kit RoadRanger

Ralph_Cramden
Explorer II
Explorer II
apr67 wrote:
midnightsadie wrote:
I,d look at the screws they used, if there rusty? remove and by stainless ones. one size bigger. and put a dab of a good rv sealer in the hole and on each screw.


These are screws under the drip rail (covered by it), the only way to get to them would be to pull it all off the RV. I don't think that is going to happen.

I will post pictures.


The screws are under the vinyl snap trim. Typically they install the roof membrane and let it hang wild over the side, then screw the gutter or awning rail over it. If they actually used butyl tape is hit and miss. Then they seal the top of the gutter extrusion to the roof membrane with non sag roof sealant, take a razor knife and cut the excess roof membrane off at the bottom of the gutter, and snap in the vinyl. The vinyl snap trim is not water tight by a longshot. If the gutter gets debris in it water is getting in that snap trim and to the screws.

Most manufacturers do not caulk the bottom edge of the gutter or awning rail to the sidewall. This lets any water that gets behind the snap trim and to the screws run out between the extrusion and the roof membrane in theory if it gets through the screws. Once the screws corrode enough chances are its getting inside the wall. Once it gets in the wall that is how delam starts.

Pull the snap trim, replace all the screws with ss screws and pump a good sealant in the holes before you run them in. Then remove all the sealant from the underside of the rails at the sidewalls. New snap trim is cheap.
Too many geezers, self appointed moderators, experts, and disappearing posts for me. Enjoy. How many times can the same thing be rehashed over and over?

apr67
Explorer
Explorer
The screw that is rusting is covered by the drip rail. There is no getting to it other than ripping the rail off, which ain't gonna happen.



It was getting a little dark so you can't see, but the rust streak comes out from under the driprail, not from the driprail. Most of the driprail is caulked on the bottom, this part isn't (about 4 inches).
2017 Thor Hurricane 34J
Gone-2014 Chevy Express 3500
Gone-2016 Jayco White Hawk 32DSBH
Gone-2013 Keystone Bullet 294BHS
Gone-2007 National SurfSide 34DE
Gone-2006 ForestRiver Sunseeker 2900LTD
Gone-1994 Fleetwood PaceArrow
Gone-1978 Kit RoadRanger

midnightsadie
Explorer II
Explorer II
buy a bottle of CLR it should do the job. just my .02cts worth ,I,d pull all those screws. , your in florida, nice time of year to work outside.

Vw_triker
Explorer
Explorer
So how do you get the rust stains off the body?

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
I have a small gutter above the slideout on my KZ and suppose many brands have the same. Despite the trailer being stored indoors except when in use, the screws rusted due to poor workmanship. The gutter had butyl or putty tape that only served to guide water to the screws. I repaired using fresh tape in the right location, stainless steel screws, caulking and fiberglass repair resin. Photos

apr67
Explorer
Explorer
midnightsadie wrote:
I,d look at the screws they used, if there rusty? remove and by stainless ones. one size bigger. and put a dab of a good rv sealer in the hole and on each screw.


These are screws under the drip rail (covered by it), the only way to get to them would be to pull it all off the RV. I don't think that is going to happen.

I will post pictures.
2017 Thor Hurricane 34J
Gone-2014 Chevy Express 3500
Gone-2016 Jayco White Hawk 32DSBH
Gone-2013 Keystone Bullet 294BHS
Gone-2007 National SurfSide 34DE
Gone-2006 ForestRiver Sunseeker 2900LTD
Gone-1994 Fleetwood PaceArrow
Gone-1978 Kit RoadRanger

midnightsadie
Explorer II
Explorer II
I,d look at the screws they used, if there rusty? remove and by stainless ones. one size bigger. and put a dab of a good rv sealer in the hole and on each screw.