RV Antifreeze

[PapaRomeo]

I just came from an RV repair place and the owner warned me not to use RV antifreeze containing alcohol because it deteriorates the rubber seals. He then went into a sales pitch for his own rv antifreeze containing propylene glycol. He then said his rv antifreeze imparts a bad odor to the system, but he had another chemical treatment that reverses the odor.

Now for years I have used the standard rv antifreeze (contains ethanol) and have never had a problem with rubber seals except now in the toilet and THAT IS AFTER 19 YEARS OF SERVICE!!!! I really can't argue with 19 years of trouble free toilet function.

Soooo. Does anyone have some input on rv antifreeze - ethanol or propylene glycol? I am aware of the "combustion" possibility of ethanol. Others have said ethanol causes "bad taste." I never drink camper water only bottled water. What about bad odor that needs to be eliminated with something else? Is what he said all sales hype?

Any thoughts and experience would be welcomed.

PapaRomeo

[jseyfert3]

dougrainer wrote:
1. RV antifreeze is REQUIRED if you have a AquaHot type system. Blowing out is not enough per Aqua Hot.
2. RV antifreeze is NOT a good idea for Icemaker molds. Kind of leaves a slime and takes a good flush and cleaning out to remove it.
3. RV antifreeze is REQUIRED to be installed in P traps. You have to have something in there to prevent freezing
4. propylene based or regular RV antifreeze--- makes no difference.
5. Gravity draining is NOT a good way to drain. I like it tho. It makes me good money in the spring when the people that gravity drain have those frozen broken parts.
6. Gravity draining will NOT get rid of the water in the Black Tank Flush Check valve
7. Gravity draining will NOT get rid of the water in the Water solenoids of Icemakers(RV or Residential) and Water thru the door solenoids.
8. Gravity draining will not get rid of the water in various types of onboard water filters and their housings.
9. AS others have noted, Gravity does not get rid of water in a standard RV toilet water valve
10. Gravity draining will NOT get rid of water in the solenoid of a Macerator toilet or its Macerator Pump
11. Gravity draining will not get rid of the water in an external Macerator drain pump.
LAST, do what you want. If you do not do it correctly, you either pay for new parts or pay ME to replace the parts with Labor and cost of parts. Doug

Well, I will continue to gravity drain, as except for the toilet (which I learned the hard way), I had no issues gravity draining. Probably because except for the toilet I have none of the things you say gravity draining won't get rid of water. 😄 (and the main water filter, but you have to remove that even if doing an anti-freeze flush, so it doesn't really count)

Suppose it wouldn't be hard to do a compressed air flush though, especially as I already own a compressor so I'd just need some adapters. That would ensure everything was good, and if I remember the toilet manual correctly you can do a compressed air flush and not have to disconnect the line or run antifreeze. I'll double check that before winter gets here. I'm certainly not going to do an anti-freeze flush as we plan on camping at least once a month through the winter, with water. Not going to put anti-freeze in the water system and flush it out every month for 5 months!

[dougrainer]

1. RV antifreeze is REQUIRED if you have a AquaHot type system. Blowing out is not enough per Aqua Hot.
2. RV antifreeze is NOT a good idea for Icemaker molds. Kind of leaves a slime and takes a good flush and cleaning out to remove it.
3. RV antifreeze is REQUIRED to be installed in P traps. You have to have something in there to prevent freezing
4. propylene based or regular RV antifreeze--- makes no difference.
5. Gravity draining is NOT a good way to drain. I like it tho. It makes me good money in the spring when the people that gravity drain have those frozen broken parts.
6. Gravity draining will NOT get rid of the water in the Black Tank Flush Check valve
7. Gravity draining will NOT get rid of the water in the Water solenoids of Icemakers(RV or Residential) and Water thru the door solenoids.
8. Gravity draining will not get rid of the water in various types of onboard water filters and their housings.
9. AS others have noted, Gravity does not get rid of water in a standard RV toilet water valve
10. Gravity draining will NOT get rid of water in the solenoid of a Macerator toilet or its Macerator Pump
11. Gravity draining will not get rid of the water in an external Macerator drain pump.
LAST, do what you want. If you do not do it correctly, you either pay for new parts or pay ME to replace the parts with Labor and cost of parts. Doug

[bukhrn]

"Any thoughts and experience would be welcomed."
My thoughts, I wouldn't buy anything from that guy, because he's actually selling BS.

[MFL]

nickthehunter wrote:
When is the last time y’all heard that someone died from accidental poisoning from RV antifreeze? Much ado about nothing

True Nick, and okay/better/best all do the job, without killing anyone, that I have heard about. The things that may differ...some will stain, some will evaporate, and some are better at keeping toilet seal, and tank valve seals lubricated.

Jerry

[nickthehunter]

When is the last time y’all heard that someone died from accidental poisoning from RV antifreeze? Much ado about nothing

[JimK-NY]

I buy the pink antifreeze at Walmart or elsewhere for about $4/gallon. It works fine.

[fj12ryder]

You certainly can spend your money however you wish, but I've not seen that the "cheap stuff" doesn't work just fine. Why spend more money for something that does the same thing as the "cheap stuff"? I prefer my money in my pocket.

[Airdaile]

A little fiscal common sense is called for here. The premium anti-freeze costs two bucks more a gallon then the cheap stuff from Walmart. That's $6 a year for most campers. Labor rates at RV service centers run $100-$150 an hour. Some of you are running half million dollar rigs.

Skip the Starbucks for a day and get the good stuff. Take 5 minutes with an air compressor to blow it out after you pump it through the system.

[JRscooby]

Gdetrailer wrote:


Do have to be aware, I have noticed that windshield washer fluid as of late comes in all kinds of colors, some pretty close resembling the "pink stuff" color so READ THE LABELS, do not depend on color only!!!

LOL Yes, read the label. I had to drain and refill my reservoir 3 times before it did not stink and did clean the windshield.

[Gdetrailer]

MDKMDK wrote:
Walmart pink stuff. Poly-Prop based, works, inexpensive.

Walmarts brand is "SUPERTECH", while is the "pink stuff" it IS a mix of Poly-Prop/ETHANOL/water.

PER the SDS sheet (formerly called Material Data Sheets) found HERE

According to the SDS it contains 13% ETHANOL AND even contains 2% of METHANOL!!!

While it will prevent freeze damage, I would not wish to put it in my fresh water system considering it does contain slightly more than trace amounts of ETHANOL..

I would only use this to winterize the traps..

Right now as of my last visit a few weeks ago it IS THE ONLY "pink stuff" that WM is selling..

To be very clear, ALL "RV ANTIFREEZE" is sold as "pink stuff", that is how they differentiate between types and uses..

Do have to be aware, I have noticed that windshield washer fluid as of late comes in all kinds of colors, some pretty close resembling the "pink stuff" color so READ THE LABELS, do not depend on color only!!!

If you have ANY doubts or questions, you can easily look up the SDS sheets on the wobbly web.

Myself, I just connect my air compressor to the freshwater system and blow out the water then open all of the low point drains then when finished leave all of the faucets and low point open all winter.

Has served me well over 18 yrs of RV ownership, only lost one toilet valve and no other damage the first yr of RV ownership when I accidentally closed the shut off valve to the toilet which trapped water in the toilet valve.

Works for me, but Your mileage may vary..

[Jayco-noslide]

For 30 years, I've used any anti-freeze labeled for RV and never had problems.

[jseyfert3]

I looked at the plumbing in mine and realized if I simply opened the low point drains and all the faucets and removed the water filter and run the pump till the water was out of it, all the water would drain out of the lines and water heater and I'd be done. No compressed air, no antifreeze. No drain plug removal on the water heater, no need to isolate so antifreeze doesn't corrode the anode. I did put antifreeze in all the drains so the traps wouldn't freeze, but not the lines. Probably used a half a gallon for that.

How'd I do? Well, after a record setting -30 °F last winter, everything was undamaged except the toilet valve. Had I read the instructions for the toilet, I would see that draining the water works fine for winterizing, IF you unscrew the hose from the toilet and open the valve to let the water drain, as otherwise a backflow preventer will keep water in the valve and it will crack. Ah well, a $30 lesson.

This winter, low point drains with faucets open, water filter, run pump till dry, and remove line from toilet and everything will be good. I can probably do this faster than pumping in a bunch of antifreeze, and it's free! Plus to antifreeze to flush out later, which is good as we bought heaters for the tanks and plumbing so we could winter camp with use of water so messing with antifreeze pumping and flushing once a month would suck.

Please note my method may not work with all faucets or plumbing layouts, and may need compressed air instead. Be sure to check your toilet in particular and what it recommends for winterizing without antifreeze if you go this route.

[JaxDad]

I use compressed air to winterize, no alcohol, no bad taste, no flushing, and other than a bit of electricity it’s FREE.

Doesn’t get much better than that.

[covered_wagon]

Johnson Baby oil is good for the seals. If you empty your black tank you can pour in enough to help the valve seals. I pour in with enough splash to get the toilet seal and when closed I pour a little to sit on top. At least it makes me feel good anyways with having a drink.

Probably vegetable oil do the same thing if you want.

[docsouce]

I get Quick Siver Propylene Glycol (no alchol) part number 92-M0073196 minus 50 degrees antifreeze. The boat marina where I used to moor by boat carries it. $5.79 per gallon. They also have P/N 92-0073198 which is for minus 100 degrees. $11.79 per gallon. I always used this type in my boat (when I had one) and never really thought about changing. Creature of habit I guess.