mskobier wrote:
bradyk,
I listened to you clips. I would bet that the issue is your pilot jet. An easy test to verify that is the issue is as follows.
With the gen side cover off, start the engine, and put it into econ mode once it has warmed up a couple of minutes. Look at the throttle control arm on top of the gen. You should notice it moving back and forth as the servo motor on too is trying to maintain a steady engine speed. If it is moving as described, shut the engine off Then unplug the wire coming from the se4rvo on top of the carb. Manually set the throttle lever to about 1/4 throttle, then start the engine again. It should start and run at a afirly high rpm. Once the engine is running, reach in to the carb and move the throttle lever to the idle position. This will be with the idle control screw touching the stop. Most likely the engine will die. if it does, the pilot jet is restricted and needs to be cleaned.
That will entail removing the carb, drilling the plug with a small drill bit and using a small screw, screw it into hole you drilled and use a pair of pliers to remove the plug. Once out, you will see the top of the pilot jet screw. At this point, I would carefylly screw the pilot jet in until it seats, counting the number of turns, then screw the needle all the way out. There will be a small spring on the needle. Do not loose it. using compressed air, carb cleaner, etc, clean the pilot jet passages and reinstall the needle. Setting it back where it was originally (Mine was 2 complete turns out from closed). Reinstall the carb and repeat the test with the servo unplugged. The engine shoould idle down to a nice low rpm and be fairly stable.If so, shut the engine down and plug the servo back in. Then restart and turn the econ mode back on. It should idle down to a fairly low rpm. Not as low as with the servo unplugged.
Mitch
I believe Mitch has written up an excellent posting. Albeit, the pilot or low speed jet was at one time something we - the consumer - had access to and could readily adjust.
Unfortunately our EPA made a decision that WE were too stupid to know how to accomplish adjustment and out of fear that we would misadjust the jet and cause excessive pollution mandated that they would be adjusted at the factory when new and then sealed. At one time we could also adjust the float level to compensate for too rich or too lean a fuel mixture. Now, there is no provision for float adjustment - all is fixed.
Of course, old timers will remember when we had adjustable main jets on small engine carburetors. They began to disappeared a few decades ago. If they had not been accessible on my chain saw last week, I would have needed to trash it and purchase a new one.
Anyone with any intelligence should know that an engine will change it's requirements for air and fuel as it wears, elevation changes or the natural varnish buildup of the gums from gasoline appear. It is also improbable that
every engine built is thoroughly tested and receives a carburetor adjustment specific to the machining differences that are always present. Factory adjustments are now generally the "mean" of what is expected - not the ones needed for a particular engine.
The unfortunate part is once we crack the seal on that pilot or low speed jet and turn the screw we have voided the emissions warranty per EPA specifications. What this ultimately means to us remains to be seen.
I really get pissed off at all the anti-tamper devices that are incorporated into small engine carburetors. I personally fail to see how the EPA expects these steps to prevent additional air pollution unless it is their hope that the device will be thrown away when readjustment is needed.
Go for Mitch's suggestions! They are good advice for maintaining proper performance of your small engine.
Professor Randy T. Agee & Nancy Agee. Also Oscar, the totally ruined Dachshund.
2009 Cedar Creek 5th Wheel - 2004 Volvo VNL670 class 8 MotorHome conversion as toter.
Turbocharged, 12L, 465 HP and 1,800 ft. Lbs. of torque.
