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Water damage repair

Scootin159
Explorer
Explorer
I just bought a new (to me) toy hauler - it's a 2001 Coachmen 261TH with the Filon fiberglass sidewalls. In my pre-buy inspection I found some water damage and rot, but bought it anyways since the price was right - even if it costs me thousands to repair. Anyways, now I need to do the repair work.

First let me highlight the damage:

It's on the front left corner - and on the outside just presents itself as some cracks and bubbling in the fiberglass.



If you push on the outside wall however, you'll realize that there's no structure to it - it's likely just supported in this area by the very thin fiberglass outer skin. I'm not sure which was first - a crack in the sidewall that led to water intrusion, or water intrusion from the window just above that led to sidewall damage due to lack of structure.



On the inside you can't really see too much, since there are cabinets immediately opposite. The interior wall is completely separated (it feels much worse than it looks in the photos), with two of the drawer support brackets being attached to basically nothing.





All told the area affected is about the first 6' length of the RV, going up about 3-4' from the bottom. The front corner itself is solid, but the damage seems to really start right after the rear of the water heater door (the front most hatch in the photos).

My questions now for the community are two fold:

1) Is it safe to use the toy hauler as-is short-term? If I just cover the cracks on the outside with something to prevent further damage (eternabond, more fiberglass, etc) - do I need to worry about the trailer disintegrating driving down the road? The rest of the structure of the RV is largely sound.

2) What's the best course of action for repair? Should I cut out the skin for the damaged section, do whatever frame repair is needed, apply new skin plywood, and then re-glue the skin panel itself (doing fiberglass repair for the new seam I created when I cut off the skin)?

Moved to Tech Issues forum from DIY.

16 REPLIES 16

Pogoil
Explorer
Explorer
You can do this project and still have a great RV. when you are done and you have saved thousands over a new one.

There are posts on this forum with photos of work done like you explain.

Take your time and enjoy the project, you may have to come up with clever solutions at times but it has and can be done.
\
Good luck.

Pogoil.

beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
You can use as is but you do have a project on your hands.

I would also work from the inside out.

Most common leaks are at roof level and then gravity takes over. You end up with a rotten roof, wall, and also floor.
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Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
Based on the pictures and the price you paid, I would not scrap it and no it will not fall apart driving down the road. It looks to me like it was hit by something from the out side and water got in over the years and damaged the wood. If you post some pictures after you remove the cabinets of the inside and floor damage we can give you better advice. You sound like you are quite capable to make these repairs yourself and it won't cost thousands of dollars. Just keep in mind after the structure and exterior is repaired if the surface dose not look as good as you want it to you can always put a decal or false door over that area. Enjoy your MH and go camping.

Scootin159
Explorer
Explorer
TakingThe5th wrote:
Bumpyroad wrote:
Scootin159 wrote:

do I need to worry about the trailer disintegrating driving down the road?


yes
bumpy


What kind of roads will you use to travel. Bad roads and/or chucking could tear things up quickly.


Almost exclusively interstate (or various smaller highways at both ends)

TakingThe5th
Explorer
Explorer
Bumpyroad wrote:
Scootin159 wrote:

do I need to worry about the trailer disintegrating driving down the road?


yes
bumpy


What kind of roads will you use to travel. Bad roads and/or chucking could tear things up quickly.
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fcooper
Explorer
Explorer
John Wayne wrote:
I would think you will have to work from the inside out, and try and leave the out side skin intact.


I too think this is the correct approach. Looking at your second picture, if you can get the cabinets, etc out of the way, I'd try to grind down and reinforce from the inside those visible cracks. They'll need a fiberglass repair on the outside also, but a couple layers of fiberglass on the inside will make that crack repair much stronger. Of course, do this before rebuilding the inside structure.

If you can build fiberglass components for the race car, you can certainly do this repair.

Keep us posted on the outcome as we all like to learn how.

Fred
Fred & Vicki
St. Augustine, Florida

Scootin159
Explorer
Explorer
After looking at it some more tonight, it looks like the kitchen cabinets might be easier to remove than I originally thought. I should only need to remove three pieces of wood to really get full access on the inside: the "L" shaped countertop, and then the two front faces that form the cabinets themselves. If I pull all the various quarter round and 1x1 pieces that hold it all together, it looks like it's largely just stapled in there. Hopefully I can get it out without destroying it, but worst case I'll have to use the old to make templates to make new.

I may still need to pull the exterior apart to fix it properly, but looking at it in more detail there's some definite floor damage under the cabinets I'll need to repair anyways. It doesn't seem to extend inboard very far at least, since the area in front of the cabinets seems very solid. We'll find out... plan on starting inside work on it tomorrow.

This will also allow me to do a better diagnosis without having to "crack open" the outside.

Tim_Nowicki
Explorer
Explorer
You sound like you pretty much know what your doing to get this done. It may not be a masterpiece,when done but, a lot better than when you started. Me, I would not be to concerned about goin down the highway as is for awhile. Just monitor the damage as you use the rig. Unless of coarse its really, really worse than what your pictures show

mrekim
Explorer
Explorer
If you can find a local expert - not sure how to do that - you could pay them $100 or so to come out for an hour or so to inspect and tell you what type of job you're looking at.

Scootin159
Explorer
Explorer
John Wayne wrote:
I would think you will have to work from the inside out, and try and leave the out side skin intact.


Hmm... I was really hoping that wasn't the case, since all the kitchen cabinets are on the inside wall of the damage. I know I could certainly cut the wall away from the outside to get to all the framing and interior walls for replacement - I'm just unsure about resealing the outside once I was done.

Is the only issue with reattaching the fiberglass to the already-mounted plywood exterior (post repair) the holding of the fiberglass panel while the glue sets? If so, it seems like I could solve that by just screwing a piece of plywood to the wall on the outside while the glue set, and then just fixing the four screw holes once it's removed somehow (caulk?).

Will it be "impossible" to seal the new seam I create by cutting the fiberglass panel away, or would some entrabond tape work for this?

Also, so that I know better what I'm getting into - what is the construction of the outside wall? Is it fiberglass -> thin plywood -> framing/insulation -> thin plywood -> vinyl interior panel as I suspect, or is there something else I'm missing.

John_Wayne
Explorer II
Explorer II
I would think you will have to work from the inside out, and try and leave the out side skin intact.
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westend
Explorer
Explorer
The process for a rotted frame in a filon exterior trailer is different than stick and tin. A guy would have to remove and install the wood panel backing the filon and then build the frame to reinforce the composite skin. At least that's my understanding. Probably the most head scratching will be involved in how to brace the filon skin while putting pressure against the inner backing. I saw pictures of one guy that did it by pulling close to a garage wall and bracing from that.

Good luck with your project!
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Scootin159
Explorer
Explorer
1) Yes
2) A bit more than that, but you're in the ballpark. If worst case I have to salvage the appliances and trash the rest of the RV, I'll come out ahead.
3) I've lurked a bit (including researching this issue before buying this RV), but still had some questions (hence the thread)
4)Short answer: I can generally make things better than they were when I started.
Long answer: I'm comfortable working with wood, metal and composites - having done various projects from major home renovations to building fiberglass and carbon components for the race car. While I certainly prefer "bolt on solutions", I have no problem fabricating one-off solutions.

... the line of answers up to this point are certainly making me nervous, but I'm not looking for a mint-condition RV here. I'm largely just replacing a small cargo trailer, and hoping for something I can spend the odd weekend in to save on hotels. Priority #1 is that it's safe to bring down the road though - I will be driving several hundred/thousand miles to my destinations, even though I'll only be staying at them for a few days at a time.

Teacher_s_Pet
Explorer
Explorer
I held off on commenting, since I didn't want to be the one to rain on your parade. But now that someone else has jumped in, how about a few questions

1 Is this your 1st RV?

2 Did you pay more than $500 for it? If not you may have gotten a fair deal.

3. Is this your 1st trip to this forum? Delamination and leaks are very popular topics on this forum. To many members dismay.

4. Are you capable of building your own home? If not you are going to to get a rude awakening.
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