cancel
Showing results forย 
Search instead forย 
Did you mean:ย 

Water heater - propane problem

Braces
Explorer
Explorer
Atwood GC10A-4E Water heater 2014. Has worked fine until this trip. 1st day electric heat worked fine, when tried to switch to propane burner fired up and ran 3-5 seconds and went off, did this for 3 tries then nothing. Waited a few minutes tried again-same result, burn a few seconds then off, 3 tries then nothing. 2nd day electric heat still OK, try propane - no flame just some clicking noise at unit. Several attempts nothing but clicks. 3rd day not even any clicks,I had tried to make sure connections were tight. How do I try to determine which part is the problem? Circuit board? Solenoid? Thermal cut-off? Spark Probe? Thermostat? OR? Frig working fine on propane.
5 REPLIES 5

Charlie_D_
Explorer
Explorer
Had the exact same sequence issue with my central heat. Dirt dauber on the end of the burner screen. Fixed that and found my propane tanks, although low, did not have enough flow to stay lit.

My heater does not have an electrode that must be heated to open gas flow. Locks out after 3rd attempt. Gas flow is directed to igniter.
Enjoying Your Freedom?
Thank A Veteran
Native Texan
2013 Prime Time Crusader 330MKS
2018 Chevy 2500 D/A Z71 4x4 Offroad
2006 Holiday Rambler Savoy 33SKT-40,000 trouble free miles-retired
2006 Chevy 2500 D/A-retired
2013 Chevy 2500 D/A-retired

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
Your water heater using the SAME circuits/t-stat-ECO & thermal-fuse for electric and propane so if electric is working (heating/shutting down/reheating) then problem is NOT with any of the above.

Problem is with spark electrode, gas valve solenoids and/or burner assembly

Firing off, running for few seconds then making attempts to light off should have triggered 'lockout' and RED Fault light at On/Off panel.
That indicates spark electrode issue:
*dirty...carbon/soot build up....clean with emery cloth
*not being engulfed in main flame...tip red (needs to be in main flame to generate 'proving' signal to circuit board----no signal/circuit board shuts it down)
*incorrect spark gap.....S/B 1/8"
*burner tube not properly aligned.....gas MUST flow directly down center of burner tube in order to properly mix with air for proper combustion. If burner tube not aligned the propane will bounce down side walls of tube , not mix with air and not light off/stay lit
*flame spreader on end of burner tube not 'squared' (parallel) with end of tube...propane doesn't properly flare out and ignite/stay lit
*main orifice dirty.....unscrew from gas valve, soak in alcohol, blow out with air (no poking anything thru it)

Gas valve solenoids get 12V DC poser at same time spark electrode gets power,
You can FEEL them energize (only for 6-8 seconds unless main flame proves)
Make sure connections/terminals are clean/tight (RED--power/Black--Ground)
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

j-d
Explorer II
Explorer II
You can find the service manual at Chris Bryant's Site. It seems to be common for Atwood water heaters to have trouble with the edge connector to the logic board. Unplug, clean board contacts with a pencil eraser, inspect the contacts in the connector and re-spring loose ones with a dental pick. Might just do it.
If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

theoldwizard1
Explorer
Explorer
"No clicking" could simply mean the thermostatic switch is NOT calling for the burner.

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
No clicking would indicate no power to circuit board.
Cerify continuity on thermostat and ECO.
Check for thermal fuse adjacent to the thermostat?eco. Normally hidden inside tubing. Should have continuity.
Check ground connection on the propane valve
Check continuity on each of the coils for the propane valve. Coils should read the same.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker