Wheel bearings

[getpower1]

Hi all,

Tried searching a little bit but never any luck on my exact question.

Little background. My wife and I inherited an old travel trailer from her parents. We are wel on the way to having the roof fixed (materials are on the way), and replacement of the four original tires and the spare should be done with today. It’s a 2003 Model Aljo by Skyline. For the last five years it’s been lived in on and off and basically hasn’t moved. So I’m getting it so I can really use it and tow it wherever I want.

Firstly, plain and simple, is there any way to repack my old wheel bearings so that I don’t damage them and can reuse them?

Secondly, wether or not I can repack the ones that are already on it, how can I tell what wheel bearings it uses? Everything seems old and I have no idea where to find that info, other than to tell you that it’s a five lug axle with 14” wheels. This trailer has two. GVWR is 6,xxx. It’s south of 7000 I believe, but could be wrong (at work and can’t verify).

But I’d like to keep a couple extra sets of wheel bearings with me on trips for just in case. Don’t want to be that guy that has to leave his trailer on the side of the road to go to an auto parts store that’s hopefully open.

Lastly, what kind of grease do you recommend I use? Just anything general lubricant fine, such as Chevron or Napa brand?

Thanks

[72cougarxr7]

I agree with the advice to document the part numbers off the bearings and seals for future reference. If there are no numbers on the seal, a good parts store or bearing house can figure that out by measuring them.
Your bearings are most likely able to be cleaned and repacked as long as the races and rollers arent chipped, gouged or blued from overheating.
My local Napa and Auto Value store have been able to cross reference the numbers off my bearings, to the brand they sell. They are typically going to be pretty standard bearings, if they dont stock them, they can get next day from the reigonal warehouse.

On grease, these trailer axles arent super picky.
I like Amsoil synthetic grease, but any decent name brand wheel bearing grease should give you good service.

Be careful when you are installing the castle nut. You dont want it to tight or it will cause the bearings to overheat and gall. The procedure I have always used is to snug the nut with a wrench while spinning the hub, then back it off and retighten by hand. If you are in between slots for the cotter pin, back the nut off to the next slot.
I usually go for a 5 or 10 mile drive, and jack each wheel up and check for excess play, you should feel just a slight bit of play when you rock the wheel from side to side.

[ChuckSteed]

Yup use a brass drift and hammer to remove the races. I’d pull them, clean
And inspect and if they look good then use them. NAPA will have what you need for parts in most cases.

Block of wood to square races when driving back in and brass drift to fully seat them. All the tools you will need. Old school time tested method that works just fine today

Or you could go spend the bucks and buy a set of bearing drivers but no
Need if care is exercised.

[JRscooby]

When you get the numbers, buy a extra set to carry. And I keep extra seals on hand. When decide to pack my bearings, I know I can put one wheel back on. If the bearings on the first wheel, I still have parts to do the next. When I am packing bearings for myself, I pack a extra set, and store them in the grease tup in the storage area with tools. If I ever need to change in emergency that time consuming part is done.
BTW, for the cost of a seal, why take a chance the reused one will fail?

[RJsfishin]

No one has mentioned the bearing races that CANNOT be removed w/ a punch or any kind of special tool. I'm not sure, but I believe they are disposable hubs that the races were never meant to be removed. But some disagree, and do remove them, using a mig welder, and believe it or not it works very well. I run into that type only 1 time, and took it uptown to a shop, and there is where I learned to "weld" them out,.....which means to weld a continuous bead on the inside serface of the race, and when it even starts to cool, the race falls right out !

[wnjj]

Ron3rd wrote:
You can also tap in the new race using the old race.

I've used the old one but first took the outside of the old one to a grinder to slightly reduce the diameter.

[time2roll]

These bearings are old school basic line work. If you have done them before you will find nothing new today. Any auto parts store should have the bearings if replacement is needed. If the new kid is confused holler back for the old guy to match them up. I use Mobil 1 synthetic grease for the highest dropping point specification.

For parts, video and advice look to etrailer.com

[opnspaces]

You've received some good advice but I'll give a bit more.

After you pull it apart get a rag or paper towels and wipe the grease out of the hub and off the bearings. Now inspect the bearings for wear, my guess is they will be fine unless the axles were submerged in water for a while.

All bearings will have a number stamped on them that you can use to buy new ones if needed.

replace bearings as a pair. (both outer and inner at the same time)

Replace the races with the bearings, They wear together, do not replace only half of a set.

Most grease seals do not have an identification number on them. A decent trailer supply store can measure the seals with a caliper and sell replacements.

When finished document all the part numbers used for the future.

[Ron3rd]

Vintage465 wrote:

wolfe10 wrote:
Actually, a hammer and BRASS or other soft metal drift work just fine for race replacement.

Totally agree, hard steel drifts are a big no-no.

Been doing that for over 50 years and have never damaged a race or hub.

Also, take the race and toss it in the freezer for a hour or so, it will nearly drop in by hand.....but have a drift and hammer ready to "set it".

This is good advice. You can also tap in the new race using the old race.

[midnightsadie]

timken has a plant over sea,s BUT the bearings are made to very good spec,s. glad you can handle this job . been sittin long time? change them and use a double lip seal .

[Lynnmor]

DON'T buy the Chinese bearings from eTrailer, I was sent pure junk.

If the current old bearings are in good condition, they have a good chance of being better than the imported **** currently available. Most bearings at local auto parts stores are also suspect. Timken bearings might be imported in some sizes, mine are USA, but at least it is a reputable company.

[dockmasterdave]

Check out etrailer.com. They will likely be your next best friend.

[down_home]

I replaced bearings in boat trailer with Timken in 1990 American made but not long after they went to China.
Take the drums off and take them to a parts store, that can handle it, most may not anymore or machine shop and have the races pressed out new ones in and rear seal and front. I have removed them, and you can buy tools that fit. I used big sockets from wrench set chisels, and big hammers, not easy for me to do anymore. Check the magnets and condition of brake shoes and wiring. Wiring on trailers that sit for a while are an usual target for rats and squirrels. When you buy bearing sets, the only way, they come with races.
Don't know who makes bearings today in the US. If the bearing shells and races aren't perfect don't buy them, The Chinese I took off that trailer had gaps in the races and the bearings themselves were cracked and flaking.
Peace of mind, you may won't to put new brakes and backing plates on the trailer, not expensive or use to not be, and may be needed, and the wiring if bad at any one point buy heavier wire and rewire the whole breaking system.
Check the spring hangers and rubber bushings. Most likely the rubber bushings are toast, but hopefully not. And if not equipped with shocks kits that bolt in or on and shocks don't cost that much. They might keep your dishes from flying out of the cabinets and into the floor. I hope you get a lot of enjoyment out of the trailer and RVing.

[Vintage465]

wolfe10 wrote:
Actually, a hammer and BRASS or other soft metal drift work just fine for race replacement.

Totally agree, hard steel drifts are a big no-no.

Been doing that for over 50 years and have never damaged a race or hub.

Also, take the race and toss it in the freezer for a hour or so, it will nearly drop in by hand.....but have a drift and hammer ready to "set it".

[getpower1]

Thanks for all the responses.

I’m very mechanically inclined. This just happens to be the first trailer I’ve owned myself. I’ve delt with wheel bearings before. On someone else’s trailer...about fourteen years ago.

I’ll have to just get them off and see what I’m dealing with I guess. I kind of figured that for most stuff in the rv world things were pretty standard as far as sizes used for this length trailer, etc...

Hopefully I can just get replacement bearings and seals at my local auto supply store. Hate to order and have to wait for that kind of thing.