Used, so the previous owner(s) may have changed out the diff gearset
Best and easiest is to tie a length of string to the U-Joint. Choose the one pointing straight down and roll the vehicle until it is pointing straight down
Roll the vehicle one tire rev. Use the valve stem as a marker
Then count the whole number of string turns. That will the the whole number...3 turns means 3.4 or 3.7...4 turns means 4.1, etc
Then the fraction of a turn will be the rest of the diff ratio
Remove the string (have to say this, as assumed they would in past posts and got some PMs yelling at me that I should have said that)
-Ben
Picture of my rig1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...