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'83 Toyota pickup start trouble in cold, wet weather

dragonflyspit
Explorer
Explorer
It starts with just a couple of pumps all summer, and it was starting well even in freezing weather during our freakishly dry autumn, but when the rain returned last week, it began giving me a lot of trouble.

I had already replaced plug and coil wires a couple years ago, so I know they aren't the issue. Toyota forum threads on similar issues most often blame a bad coil or distributor cap. That makes perfect sense to me except that I can get mine to start with a shot of starting fluid. If It's lack of spark or weak spark due to moisture in the distributor, how would starting fluid help?

Because I'm poor as a church mouse; I don't get around repairs as easily as I once did, and it's cold as a well-digger's @$! out there, I'd really like some insight into this before I start pulling things apart.

Thanks in advance.
20 REPLIES 20

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
Thank you for your service officer 2oldman.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
Grit dog wrote:
2oldman wrote:
You actually tow with this?

Is this a pertinent question to the diagnosis of the man's issue with his truck or just playing forum poolice?
Little of both. Doesn't matter.. he's gone.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

bguy
Explorer
Explorer
Is your choke fully closing?
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2011 Ram 1500 Quad Cab, 4x4, 3.55, HEMI
2009 TL-32BHS Trail-Lite by R-Vision

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
More info would help

How does it run after it finally starts ?

If it then runs as before, then most likely fuel delivery during starting...as the starting fluid only lasts a few seconds and the regular fuel system takes over

If it runs poorly after it starts, then add ignition area to the suspect list

Then more complexity things, but gotta know how it runs after the starting fluid
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
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Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
2oldman wrote:
You actually tow with this?

Is this a pertinent question to the diagnosis of the man's issue with his truck or just playing forum poolice?
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
You actually tow with this?
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
Also, how fresh is the fuel? Is this a daily driver or only run occasionally?
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
^Good suggestions.
And since the OP is not a mechanic, I’ll stress, let the ether evaporate Completely before cranking it over! If not and you do have any arcing you’ll know it immediately!!

This could very likely be a combination of issues as well. We don’t know how well the truck has been maintained. 37 years old is an antique. My ‘74 Jeep, all original stock starts and runs awesome...now. Complete tune up, points, new fuel pump, rebuilt the carb.
Ran like schitt before I did all that.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

JRscooby
Explorer II
Explorer II
Does the engine leak oil? Does not take much oil to hold dirt. And the dirt will hold water. On the High voltage parts, a little oil/dirt/water will short the spark to ground. Remove cap and wires, use the starting fluid to clean them, let dry. Low cost to try.

midnightsadie
Explorer II
Explorer II
wd40 will help. but go out at dark and watch for sparks jumping. hold a screw driver on the spark plug wire and see if it jumps.

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
While bedlam and fish's suggestions could be the cause, it does sound more spark related.
Check that it's getting fuel when you pump the throttle prior to starting.
Seems electrical to me since the moisture seems to cause the issue.
Cap and rotor are cheap and if they're old, it's a good idea anyway.
Or may e first shoot the underside of the distributor cap with WD40.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

memtb
Explorer
Explorer
I’ll go with a previous answer......potentially a cracked rotor cap or the cap my have “carbon tracking” made worse with high humidity! memtb
Todd & Marianne
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2007 Dodge Ram 3500, 6.7 Cummins, 6 speed manual, 3.73 ratio, 4x4
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2007 Bigfoot 30MH26Sl

colliehauler
Explorer III
Explorer III
enblethen wrote:
Starting fluid ignites at a much smaller spark.
Look for tracking between the primary and secondary terminals on coil and cap. It may look like a pencil mark.
A distributor cap would be my guess as well since it starts in dry weather.

kw_00
Explorer
Explorer
FishOnOne wrote:
Make sure your carb priming pump actually works. You can't assume anything on a vehicle this old.


This as well.....
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