cancel
Showing results for 
Search instead for 
Did you mean: 

Another brake thread

Oldcow
Explorer
Explorer
I have done some research but would still like to ask questions. I have a 2013 Out.back 300rb weighs in at 7600#'s empty. I tow with a Tundra and use a Prodigy P3 controller.

Brakes are only 10 inches and are not the best on a good day, so I am told. Had the bearings done this spring and the brakes started acting up after that. Took it back and checked for grease on the pads, none. The brakes looked glazed so the shop replaced the shoes and back plates at cost and did not charge me any labor. They also replaced all of the wiring front to back (something that was suggested on this site, at least eliminate it as a cause).

The issue is that the brakes still have a tendency to grab. I have the setting on B3 as indicated on line by Prodigy. The brakes work fine when I try them manually at 30mph and when I apply lots of pressure on the pedal. When braking gently in town is when they seem to grab.

I would like to know from others who have a P3 what setting they use? When the shop checks the controller using a plug with lights in the brake hook up on the truck all seems good. Could it show to be working but maybe its not working like it should? Perhaps I should try another controller in case mine is defective? Its now only 3 years old.

Thanks for any input.

Oldcow
2013 Outback 300RB TT
2010 Tundra
11 REPLIES 11

Timtation
Explorer
Explorer
I have the same controller if I have adjusted the brakes my setting is much lower voltage for lockup than if I have the shop do brgs and give it back. Shops figure the electric will forgive long throws but that requires higher peak voltage and gain. If in slow mode a sharp stab often is smoother than feathering. Once I am traveling below 30 mph I will drop to the 0 setting. It still powers the brakes but it lags rather than leads.

aftermath
Explorer II
Explorer II
I really like my P3, or is it a P2? I read the entire direction manual before setting mine up, and then I read it again. You need to adjust your basic setting before you mess with the boost settings. Once I did that I didn't use my boost at all. After a few trips down long steep mountain passes I realized that I should be using B1 or B2 for some help. This made a big difference in the actual time I spent with my foot on the brakes.

So, set it up properly to begin with and then mess with the boost settings. I don't use any boost until I hit the highway. In the passes I will sometimes go into B2. Works for me, no grabbing and I feel safe.
2017 Toyota Tundra, Double Cab, 5.7L V8
2006 Airstream 25 FB SE
Equalizer Hitch

TundraTower
Explorer
Explorer
I have a tundra pulling a TT same weight as yours, and I use a P2 instead of a P3.

After the brake shoes are worn in, I set the gain at 9.5-10 and normally do not use any boost. If we are in the mountains I will go up to B1, but rarely on the flats.

I have felt some grab when applying brakes from 5-10 MPH like in traffic but it has been that way since new.

Mine has Lippert axles and "self-adjusting" brakes that adjust with each forward stop. I have found that the grabbing gets worse the more stop-and-go traffic I have to endure.

When new, also had trouble with one single wheel continually adjusting itself too tight. Finally took it apart and discovered the wire cable that participates in the automatic adjustment was twisted a couple of times and thus effectively a little short. Straightened that out and no problems since
2013 Tundra, 5.7FF, TRD, 4WD, tow pkg
2014 Forest River Cherokee 264
Prodigy II / Equalizer 10K
103 nights & 12,700 miles since April '13

Oldcow
Explorer
Explorer
B2 setting at level 8 seems to be where its at for my combination.

I am the idiot for not googling P3 Prodigy for a full explanation on how the controller work. Shop are idiots for not even suggesting I check the settings on the controller they sold me. I am an even bigger idiot for listening to them :).

Problem solved, thank you.
Oldcow
2013 Outback 300RB TT
2010 Tundra

Oldcow
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the advice. I will take it out this evening for a test run.

Oldcow
2013 Outback 300RB TT
2010 Tundra

Slate_CM
Explorer
Explorer
I have the same truck and controller, and like others have said B2 or 3 can make the brakes grab at slower speeds.

I try and find a setting that is a compromise. Sometimes it's B1 with a little higher voltage, around 8.5 I think.

llr
Explorer
Explorer
I have the same controller and the high boost at slow speed seems to cause this so I lower it at least if not on long interstate runs where I bring it up if I think about it. I believe I am running only B1 and B2 but the level will very by combination and you need to see what works, try B2, B1 and even no boost

Community Alumni
Not applicable
B3 sets your initial braking at 25 percent of the power setting. It's great on the highway with a heavier trailer. It will get you to maximum braking faster than the other settings. However, it can be very grabby at slow speeds. B1 will provide you with smoother braking at slow speed because its set the initial braking at only 13 percent. Move it down to B1 when you're in those situations.

Chuck_thehammer
Explorer
Explorer
be sure the brake boost is off on the controller. been 2 years since I used a P3.

its sitting on a shelf right now.. Ford came with built in controller.

braindead0
Explorer
Explorer
My brakes seem grabby when lightly braking at slower speeds, I turned down the gain on my controller and that seems to have helped quite a bit.
2015 RAM 1500 4x4 5.7, 3.93
2013 Econ 16RB TT

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
B3 gives the most initial grab doesn't it? (from what I remember)
If you feel it has too much grab then turn it down to perhaps B1.
Overall braking will be the same but you'll have less grab.