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anybody towing 3/4 burb 6.0L towing 9K+ LBS

splegge
Explorer
Explorer
Hi folks,

I have a have 2006 2500 burb with 6.0L 4.10. with WDH - tow rating 9600 LBS. we are looking to upgrade campers to weighing between 9K - 9.5K LBS.

ANybody have any experience pulling this set-up.

anyfeed back on campers is an extra bonus and you should buy a lotto ticket for being so kind...

Possible Campers - these are out of the factory at 8000LBS.
freedom express 312BHDS

Catilina 32TSBH

Jayco
eagle - 324bts

Jay flight 32TSBH
2013 312bhds Freedom Express
2016 F350 Crewcab w/6.7
27 REPLIES 27

MO_Trout_Bum
Explorer
Explorer
OP, I used to tow an 8200 lb (gross) TT with a 2007 6.0/4.10 suburban. It handled the load pretty well, however I would not have wanted to go any heavier. The 4 SPD transmission was the main problem.
2004 Silverado 2500HD Ext, Duramax LLY, 4WD, 3.73
2012 Keystone Cougar 327RES

APT
Explorer
Explorer
BigToe, your observations are important for those like me with the 2007+ GM SUV receivers and 1000 pound TW limit.
A & A parents of DD 2005, DS1 2007, DS2 2009
2011 Suburban 2500 6.0L 3.73 pulling 2011 Heartland North Trail 28BRS
2017 Subaru Outback 3.6R
2x 2023 Chevrolet Bolt EUV (Gray and Black Twins)

BurbMan
Explorer II
Explorer II
Big Toe, good information as always and agree with all of it. In the absence of perfect information we make the best decision we can on the information that is available. Even if you can't catch the greased watermelon, you'll get a good idea of how heavy it is as it slaps your hand and slides away.

I count myself as a member of the weight police, but am still on foot patrol, not an officer like you.

splegge
Explorer
Explorer
Guys and gals, I wanted to thankyou for all the info. maxing camper size /wght with TV and it's capaicity is like catching a greased watermelon. We spent a few hours at dealership today....

SP
2013 312bhds Freedom Express
2016 F350 Crewcab w/6.7

BigToe
Explorer
Explorer
Some clarifications in this good dialogue...

- GM Factory hitch capacity for a model year 2005 2500 Suburban / Yukon XL is 1,500 lbs tongue weight using weight distribution.

- The GM Owners Manual does instruct the user to make any kind of guesstimates regarding how much tongue weight is transferred back onto the trailer axles, or forward onto the steering axle. I'm not aware of any OEM hitch rating that suggests this method of calculating net tongue weight either.

- It is therefore safer to assume that the maximum tongue weight specification is the actual tongue weight of the trailer (and anything mounted to the tongue, including WD and or anti-sway hitch hardware)... without any deduct for how much weight is eventually transferred back.

- The fact that GM (and most receiver hitch manufacturers) offers TWO tongue weight specifications, one for weight carrying, and one for weight distribution, further supports the safe presumption that no type of guesstimation on weight transfer is to be deducted from the actual tongue weight. The generally higher tongue weight rating for weight distribution already contemplates that some weight will be transferred when the spring bars are engaged, otherwise there would need be only one tongue weight specification.

- Using GM's 1,500 lb. tongue weight rating with WD, if I had an 1,800 lb tongue weight, and decided that 20% of that tongue weight would be distributed back to the trailer axles or forward to the drive axles, then I would subtract 360 lbs from 1,800 for a net tongue weight of 1,440 lbs. Is 1,440 lbs under GM's 1,500 lbs maximum tongue weight specification? NO. GM's maximum tongue weight rating with WD is stated without calculation for any net reduction effects of the WD once engaged. The gross tongue weight is to be no greater than 1,500 lbs. The safe presumption is that the actual tongue weight effect on the hitch will be less than 1,500 lbs once the WD is engaged.

- You've seen the GM hitch. It has a weight carrying tongue weight limit of 600 lbs. It would take a tremendous leap of faith to hope that the 1,500 lb. weight distribution specification was intended to be a 1,500 lb. net tongue weight after the spring bars were engaged. No. It is the maximum gross tongue weight before any spring bars are engaged.

- A Sherline tongue weight scale (also sold by Cequent under one of their brand names) is worth every penny. There are other "weighs" to weigh trailers, but the easily packable compactness, efficiency, and simplicity of this little device is worth it's "weight" in gold. The most educational aspect of having this tool is that one learns just how far off their guesstimates about tongue weight really are. All the percentage extrapolations from trailer weight specifications in the trailer manufacturer's brochures smell like male cow pies by comparison.

- With a scale, one can see dynamically, in real time, the actual effect of each and every change in tongue weight made from shifting contents in the trailer, or even shifting hitch heights... which changes the trailer's weight distribution between each axle and the tongue. These differences can be dramatic.

- Generally, we have a relatively small range to work with when it comes to optimizing tongue weight. In typical cases with TT's towed behind a 2500 type of SUV, we are talking about managing a 400 lb range between 800 and 1,200 lbs. Just think about that... 400 lbs is not that much when considering the weight of propane tanks, batteries, bikes, firewood, hitch hardware and other items that folks typically have stuck on their tongues.

- The Hensley hitch, for example, weighs 250 lbs by itself. Subract as much as 50 lbs from that, and there is still half the range we have to work with that is gone. Having a tongue weight scale to monitor the effects of changes is, in my opinion, as important as having weight distribution.

- Yes, I have applied to the Academy of Weight Police, and am waiting patiently for my acceptance letter after my references are checked. ๐Ÿ™‚

BurbMan
Explorer II
Explorer II
To clarify, my 1200 is "net effective" so to speak. With the TT hooked up, WD bars engaged, and rig setting level, the truck weighs 1200 lbs more with the TT connected that it does empty. So whatever the WDH sent back to the TT axles was already there when I measured. Ideally I would own a Sherline, but alas I do not.

APT
Explorer
Explorer
Keep in mind that about 20% of TW goes back onto trailer axles with a properly adjusted WDH. At 1200-1400 pounds, that's significant.
A & A parents of DD 2005, DS1 2007, DS2 2009
2011 Suburban 2500 6.0L 3.73 pulling 2011 Heartland North Trail 28BRS
2017 Subaru Outback 3.6R
2x 2023 Chevrolet Bolt EUV (Gray and Black Twins)

Volkov
Explorer
Explorer
splegge wrote:
No I have not replaced the hitch. Why do you mention?

With 5 fam members and dog, wife is not fan of PU. still trying to talk her into that...

That plus 1200-1400 hitch weight will be very close to cargo capacity. Our 1000# hitch weight plus family puts us close to our cargo capacity. We have a combined family weight around 700# plus 100# of dogs. I have 3 teenage boys, but they have about one ounce of body fat shared between them. Do your own math or weigh the truck and family. The 2500 handles it just fine at its upper limit mind you.

BurbMan
Explorer II
Explorer II
Back on topic, I'm not sure I would tow a 9500 lb camper with my burb, ours weighs in at 8500 and it's plenty. The 2500 burb has about 2000 lbs of payload capacity, so if the kids are small he'll be OK. I know mine scaled at 6700 against a GVWR of 8600 with me and a full tank of gas on board.

A 9000 lb TT at 15% TW is 1350 lbs, over the rating of the OEM receiver IIRC, and leaving only 550 lbs for DW, kids, dog and cargo, so will be cutting it close for sure. I have overloaded mine on occasion and didn't really seem to affect performance, but not sure of effects over time of running that way every trip.

Suggestion to the OP would be to look at TTs that are in the 7000 lb dry range, there are many lightweight TTs that offer the bunks and space for a large family, there was just a thread on this very topic over at the TT forum.

Regarding the RAWR, Chevy lists it at 6084, coincidentally 2x the 3042 ratings of the LT 245/75-16E tires that come stock. The axle itself is the GM 14-bolt full floater with 10.5" ring gear. I believe the axle itself is rated for 10k lbs and has been proven to be fairly bulletproof over the many years GM has been using it.

ependydad
Explorer
Explorer
splegge wrote:
No I have not replaced the hitch. Why do you mention?

With 5 fam members and dog, wife is not fan of PU. still trying to talk her into that...


My suggestion is that you load up the burb like you would be going camping and then compare that against your gross vehicle weight rating and rear axle weight rating (RAWR).

With a family of 5 + dog, are you going to have enough capacity to handle the tongue weight of just about any camper?
2017 Spartan 1245 by Prime Time
2018 Ram 3500 Crew Cab DRW w/ 4.10 gears and 8' bed
FW Hitch: TrailerSaver TS3
Learn to RV- learn about RVing - Towing Planner Calculators - Family Fulltiming FB page

BurbMan
Explorer II
Explorer II
Boy you have a good memory! Yes, the first replacement was a Draw-Tite that worked well, but unfortunately my second lesson learned was about the bent-end hitch pins....the holes in the receiver elongated so much that the whole hitch head assembly moved in and out when accelerating and decelerating, making a very disconcerting "clunk" when pulling away from a traffic light or other stop. I trashed the Draw Tite receiver and the bent-end pins and went with this set up a few years back. Note the new pin in the photo./ I have since upgraded the pin to a Master with a 90* locking end so I don't have to fight the key against the 7-pin plug. Only thing that bugs me about this hitch is where they put the plug mount.

BigToe
Explorer
Explorer
Burbman...

There are some features about your Kolossus V hitch (no longer available) that I liked... including how the side plates are flanged on the top and bottom, how the cross tube passes through the side plates and isn't just butt welded, and how the Kolossus has the two center bolts that tie into the 500 lb capacity of the factory bumper (made by "Flex-In-Gate"... key word = "flex").

Unlike other Cequent "Class V" hitches, the Kolossus V didn't require drilling any holes into the frame flanges (the worst possible place to drill into a truck frame... on the frame flange, especially forward of the rear spring hangars). Sadly, the Kolossus V for this application was discontinued seven (7) years ago, and is no longer available.

What I don't like about it is the inboard facing flanges. If I were to install a hitch like that, I would try and find a way to box the top and bottom flanges of the frame together. I thought that John Barca's execution of doing just that was quite clever, using the materials he had on hand. To reduce the cyclical flexing stress on the lower frame flange, he put in vertical bushings machined to fit flush inside the frame channel, and replaced the original bolts with longer bolts that clasped the top and bottom frame flanges together, buttressed apart by the vertical bushing. The flange of his hitch was tied into this monolithic stack.

That solution effectively "boxed" the frame at the hitch mounting area, and distributed the stress from being borne by the lower frame flange alone, to being borne by the frame's upper flange and vertical web tied together as a unit.

He didn't have the center mounting points that your Kolossus V has though, so some of your stress is distributed to your frame web by virtue of your Flex-n-Gate bumper, which attaches to frame via brackets to the web.

Anyway, I have not seen lower frame flanges bent up with the Kolossus. I have seen lower frame flanges bent, in person, with other aftermarket hitches. The bend/buckling occurs in the forward most hole (towards the axle).

I use 1,200 lb. spring bars with the factory hitch. Tongue weight is typically about 1,200 lbs, or about 15% of trailer GVWR. (not 10%) Tongue weight rating of factory hitch is 1,500 lbs. WD.

Burbman, I thought you had a different aftermarket hitch before you found the Kolossus? Isn't that right?

As for the weight and for the OP's original question... yes I tow with a 6.0/4.10/4sp but not over 9K. The OP did ask a second question about hitches, hence this tangent.

BurbMan
Explorer II
Explorer II
I was the guy that started the GM hitch discussion after this happened:



Compare that to the aftermarket Kolussus:



I have not heard of aftermarket receivers causing frame damage. I can see where you might be tempted to overload an aftermarket hitch and create stress that the frame can't handle, but if you stay within OEM weight ratings, that gives you the advantage of a sturdier receiver and a safe frame.

BigToe, I forget how heavy your TT is....I am running about 1200 lbs of TW with my rig, which was the top limit of the OEM receiver rating. If you run lighter TWs then you will likely never have a problem with the OEM receiver, but many have reported that it's not up to the task of a heavy WD set up with 1000 lb bars.

Lantley
Nomad
Nomad
Dadoffourgirls wrote:
Lantley wrote:

So how does your 6.0 tow your 32BHDS vs. your old 8.1 I see from your sig. you have had both


My 6.0 with 6sp tows my 32BHDS as good or better than the 8.1. I initially did it with the benefit of being able to use a new 2500HD with the 6.0 and 3.73; and without the benefit of calculating out the ratio's. If you look at the tables that APT has done, you will see why it works better.

Additionally, the new truck gets 14 mpg versus 11 mpg from the old (monthly average of mixed use).

I was hoping to get a new 1500 2014 Silverado with the 5.3 and 3.42 that is rated at 9700lb to test towing the trailer. However, I have only found them with the 3.08 or with the 4.3.


Thanks
19'Duramax w/hips, 2022 Alliance Paradigm 390MP >BD3,r,22" Blackstone
r,RV760 w/BC20,Glow Steps, Enduraplas25,Pedego
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