Break Activator question

[Estorni]

I have a 19' Riverside RV Whitewater Retro 177SE towed by a 2004 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD. I'm a newbie. I inherited the truck from my dad when he passed. He pulled a 29' Pacemaker trailer. The truck came equipped with a Draw-Tite Activator II brake activator. The service department at the trailer sales place adjusted the activator at 3.5. How do I know if this is correct? I've Googled the activator and there's information on how it works and how to adjust, but nothing to learn how to determine the right adjustment number. Thanks for your help.

[BarneyS]

Setup and operation of the brake controller you are asking about. Especially note P.6 where it says:

"SETUP
• Preliminary Adjustments
• With the trailer connected press and hold the brake pedal, the Display will
show the Output setting.
• Adjust to 2.0 by turning the control up or down as needed.
• While still holding the brake pedal move the Sync Control slightly, the Display
will change to the Sync setting.
• Adjust to 4o by sliding the Sync Control ahead or back as necessary.
TEST DRIVE
• In an open area, such as a large parking lot, drive forward and apply the
trailer brakes using the Manual Control.
• If the trailer brakes are weak adjust the Output Control up.
• If the trailer brakes jerk or lockup adjust the Output Control down.
• Repeat this step until firm braking is felt without jerking or lockup.
• Once the Output is set, drive forward and press the brake pedal, the tow
vehicle and
• trailer should make a smooth stop.
• If the stop seems slow and more aggressive braking is desired, move the Sync
Control rearward while holding the brake pedal.
• If the stop seems too aggressive adjust the Sync Control rearward while holding
the brake pedal.
• If the stop seems too aggressive adjust the Sync Control rearward while holding
the brake pedal.
• After making a Sync adjustment the Display will show the setting until the
brake pedal is released.
• Make several stops at various speeds and adjust the Sync until stops are smooth
and firm. Slight adjustment of the Output Control may also be desirable.
NOTE: If any problems occur during Setup refer to the Trouble Shooting section
of these instructions."

Hope this helps you out. 🙂
Barney

[Terryallan]

ScottG wrote:
The biggest problem I see with timed "brake" controllers is how they respond in a panic stop. At that point, I want full braking NOW and not a few seconds from now.

agree. A timed controller, will apply full braking shortly AFTER the accident

[Estorni]

bid_time wrote:
The user manual on that controller gives you directions on how to adjust it. Do what it says. Then while driving sometimes you will feel the need to turn it up a click or two, sometimes you may need to turn it down a click or two. Mine has worked just fine for over 10 years.

Right -- I don't have the manual... maybe there's one on-line. What is yours set to? Do you adjust it while you're driving? Sorry if my questions seem dumb.

[westend]

ScottG wrote:
The biggest problem I see with timed "brake" controllers is how they respond in a panic stop. At that point, I want full braking NOW and not a few seconds from now.

X2

[ScottG]

The biggest problem I see with timed "brake" controllers is how they respond in a panic stop. At that point, I want full braking NOW and not a few seconds from now.

[bid_time]

The user manual on that controller gives you directions on how to adjust it. Do what it says. Then while driving sometimes you will feel the need to turn it up a click or two, sometimes you may need to turn it down a click or two. Mine has worked just fine for over 10 years.

[ScottG]

I didn't realize it was a proportional controller. I have no idea why they sell those junk units.
I would toss it and get a Prodigy.

[Terryallan]

RTCastillo wrote:
You have to drive it at about 30 to 40 miles per hour then apply the brake to test if the rig is pushing the tow vehicle or dragging it. Yeah, for newbies like us, it takes sometime. I'm still on trial and error with the adjustments.

Doesn't take all that long IF it is a proportional controller. You run it to 25 or so, and the apply ONLY the trailer brakes. Do not press the brake pedal. Fully pull the manual lever. Adjust the gain up or down to the point that the trailer tires "Almost" lock up. Only takes a couple times to get it right. IF it is a Prodigy series. It is set, and forget.

You actually want it set so that you don't feel the trailer brakes come on at all with the foot brake. You want the TV, and trailer to stop as one with no jerk.

[jerem0621]

Hate to say this, I would replace the controller with a proportional controller like the Tekonsha Prodigy P3 or P2. A timed based controller like you have can’t adjust the braking power based on the immediate need. It’s always too much or too little braking power...at least it seems that way.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

[Lynnmor]

That is a timed controller and most will tell you it is very poor design. I wouldn’t waste my time trying to adjust it, get one that claims to be proportional. A timed controller increases braking from the time the brake lights come on till it reaches maximum at some point.

[Yosemite_Sam1]

You have to drive it at about 30 to 40 miles per hour then apply the brake to test if the rig is pushing the tow vehicle or dragging it. Yeah, for newbies like us, it takes sometime. I'm still on trial and error with the adjustments.

[ScottG]

You don't.
You need to drive the rig yourself and adjust the brake controller as needed.