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Clicking with Shore Power

Bear9350
Explorer
Explorer
Hello,

I just purchased a used 97 Jayco trailer. Started cleaning stuff up and getting things figured out at home last weekend. Saturday afternoon I wired up a 30amp 110 volt recepticale to plug it into shore power. I also plumbed the propane back up. I did a quick check Sat afternoon to see if the furnace and AC worked and checked most of the lights. Everything seemed good. At this point I new the battery was dead. I had previously tried to charge the battery that was on it but it would not take a charge.

Sunday when I walked into it I heard a clicking sound coming for what I assume it the converter. When I unplugged the shore power the clicking noise would slowly die out.

I did a little research online and read that the dead battery may be the problem. I purchased a new battery, fully charged it and installed it last night. Plugged it back into shore power and the clicking continued.

I am new to all this and am looking for any advice on where I should look next.

Thanks,
Brian
47 REPLIES 47

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
ksg5000 wrote:
Try turning off each AC breaker one at a time and see if you can isolate which circuit is associated with the "clicking sound".


X2.......

And when you flip AC cb for converter bet the clicking goes away.

While you have the AC cb panel open check for model number of converter.

Then contact Randy at Best Converter for replacement. LINK
Is it time for your medication or mine?


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Doug33
Explorer
Explorer
My bad. I was in the middle of doing something when I made a hasty post. For some reason I saw 30 amps, but my distracted brain was thinking 20 amps. I plug in at home to a 20 amp line, and do not run the A/C.

But as everyone correctly pointed out, most campsite electric service is 30 amps, which is sufficient for A/C.

.....nevermind.....carry on..... 😉
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Hornnumb2
Explorer
Explorer
Mine was making some noise awhile back and when I pulled the convertor out to check it, it had sucked up a piece of a plastic wrapper and was stuck in the fan making noise.

sbowman871
Explorer
Explorer
If you are using a surge protector that monitors voltage, you might check the voltage at the source. Surge protectors will only allow a range of volts to the TT. The clicking might be the power turning on and off. Had this problem last year. Voltage was too hight at my pedestal. Something to consider.
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ksg5000
Explorer
Explorer
Try turning off each AC breaker one at a time and see if you can isolate which circuit is associated with the "clicking sound".
Kevin

fla-gypsy
Explorer
Explorer
Doug33 wrote:
I would not run A/C on 30 amp 110 volt circuit.


Why not?

OP-sounds like your convertor has a problem. Does the convertor fan come on when running 12v lighting?
This member is not responsible for opinions that are inaccurate due to faulty information provided by the original poster. Use them at your own discretion.

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T_in_Michigan
Explorer
Explorer
Get past the 110/120V issue. Most appliances are designed to work at 110V, 120V is the baseline voltage supplied by your Electric Utility.

Any electrician will tell you 120/240V is the voltage in your house.

Sounds like it is possible you have some loose connections or something that might be causing the clicking sounds.
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westend
Explorer
Explorer
It may be that your battery is bad and the self-resetting circuit breaker between the converter and the battery is opening and closing. Remove a cable from the battery to verify.
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Dennis_Smith
Explorer
Explorer
I would not run A/C on 30 amp 110 volt circuit.


I thought all campers were 120 volts, and I bet 90% are 30 amps. Mine works great with air, microwave, and everything else on with 30 Amp ckt

Bear9350
Explorer
Explorer
beemerphile1 wrote:
The refrigerator and furnace ignition clicks.


I am fairly certian I have both of those of but will double check this afternoon.

Bear9350
Explorer
Explorer
Dave5143 wrote:
Is it possible that your rig has an Electrical Management System installed somewhere inside?

I have one in my trailer and if the power source is unable to provide full current to the load (mine was routed through an electronic timer switch to power the fridge overnight before leaving home) then the contactor inside will click furiously to try to shed the load from the power as the input voltage drops.

I now use a dedicated circuit for the trailer when at home though it is still limited to 20A.


Not sure if I have a management system. It doesn't sound as if this would be the problem though if I am reading your response right. My clicking doesn't seem to change. It will click when I have no lights/ etc and the clicking doesn't change when I turn a few lights on and the AC.

Bear9350
Explorer
Explorer
enblethen wrote:
Welcome to RV.net!
Sounds like a capacitor is failing.
Make and model of converter?


Not sure on the make/ model of the converter. I will check when I get home from work this afternoon.
Capacitor would make since. It does sound similar to the noice I have heard from other failing capacitors. It would also makes since how the noise lessens as the capacitor discharges.

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
Voltage is actually suppose to be 120 volts AC from utility.
Then premises installation causes voltage drop.

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beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
The refrigerator and furnace ignition clicks.

Doug33 wrote:
I would not run A/C on 30 amp 110 volt circuit.


What would you use? Tens of thousands of RVs have 30a 110vac service.
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Dave5143
Explorer
Explorer
Is it possible that your rig has an Electrical Management System installed somewhere inside?

I have one in my trailer and if the power source is unable to provide full current to the load (mine was routed through an electronic timer switch to power the fridge overnight before leaving home) then the contactor inside will click furiously to try to shed the load from the power as the input voltage drops.

I now use a dedicated circuit for the trailer when at home though it is still limited to 20A.
Dave & Mary

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