Does any one have a front locking differental on a Dodge??

[KKELLER14K]

Ok this is what I have and this is what I want to know. I have an 02 Dodge Dually. I had a really bad experience in the winter some time back. I tried to pull out of a slope in 4 wheel and the front was a complete loser as it would not engage the front when I needed it to pull me out...I want a locker front end...who has done it and show me how..


EDIT HERE: What I meant to say is only one tire will get traction

[KKELLER14K]

Here is an older read

A lot of opinions out there..maybe I will sit on this one awhile

[KKELLER14K]

MMM...Well using my dually to rock crawl with....would never happen for one. It only takes one time to get stuck at a weird angle on a slippery slope in the mountains to wish you had one. Watching one tire spin on the front end when you needed both to be getting traction is the point here. I'm not talking about driving it "locked together" going down the road on dry pavement. Lets be real. Again This is an "OPEN" front end. You can drive it normally down the road on a slippery surface at slower speeds in 4x4. I do more than pull an RV with this truck. I explore many logging roads here in the Northwest in all kinds of conditions. It's what I do here. So even if I used it just once to save myself from having to walk out and find help is the goal. Add a Winch.. even better. That's another thread. You might jump with one parachute and hope it works every time but I rather have 2 in case I need it. Two tires locked in front... Heck yeah why not just do both front and rear? Well my rear end seams to do the job with the limited slip just fine.. it's the front with all that weight from the CTD I need to be able to move with both tires if needed. Thanks for every ones help...Kev

[SoCalDesertRid1]

I love lockers, but honestly, I think it is a bit rediculous to be debating installing a locker in the front axle of a crew cab dually used for pulling trailers.

The truck is too large and unwieldy to ever use for rock crawling or any extreme 4 wheeling where one front tire is going to be off the ground and the other have traction on a rock. That is where you want a locker, or a spool, or welded spiders up front, in a Jeep, Bronco, Samurai, rock crawling buggy, or other play toy vehicle that will be used for that kind of 4-bying.

The general mud, sand, snow, gravel, loose dirt, etc that a dually pickup that is basically in otherwise factory stock condition is likely to be operated on certainly don't require a locker up front.

I would spend the money on a locker in the rear axle and leave the front open.

Here's a tip. You can get both front wheels turning with good traction with an open differential up front, by turning your steering wheel back and forth.

[coolbreeze01]

KKELLER14K wrote:
So that being said it brings up this question...Why would you want to have the front axle fully engaged running the driveline all the time? Who cares about having to get out and have to lock hubs? No big deal to me...this is puzzling. All the wear and tear... and the extra drag it causes...Why? What is whirling around in that transfer case at all times on the end of that drive shaft?? Can you actually disengage those axles with a mod at the hubs? Does Warn make a kit? ...I'll be back after more fact finding. It does not make any sense to me..

From Allpar "front axle disconnect system is now available on Ram 2500"

[SoCalDesertRid1]

pyoung47 wrote:
My understanding is that the front two are locked when in 4 x 4 -- that's why you don't want to drive on dry pavement with 4 x 4 engaged.

The front driveshaft is locked to the rear driveshaft, with a part time transfer case in 4wd.

Whate we're talking about is locking both tires on the same axle together, by use of a locking differential in the axle.

[pyoung47]

My understanding is that the front two are locked when in 4 x 4 -- that's why you don't want to drive on dry pavement with 4 x 4 engaged.

[Grit_dog]

Not having a front axle disconnect (locking hubs or a cad) doesn't seem to cause additional wear. I've got 150k on my Dodge and there's a lot more than me with more miles not wearing out u joints and cardan joints.
That said, Ram claimed about 1mpg increase with their 2014 models when they added the cad back in.
Lock that sum beatch up on the logging roads, or toss a set of chains on if it gets ugly.
This is assuming you're not trying to overcome hiway tread tires' lack of traction.
A 4wd dually with some siped mudders will go ALOT of places!

[tinner12002]

Dr_Holiday wrote:
I'd check to make sure you dont have manual locking hubs on the front of the truck. I'd bet you do and they were not locked it.

My 2012 Ram 2500 will lock up the front dif ONLY in 4L and when it locks it a huge pain is in the butt as it makes turning the truck a challenge.

I don't think Dodge has used front locking hubs since 93 unless someone has installed them after market. As for a front locker I would look into the ARB elec locker.

[BenK]

KKELLER14K wrote:

So that being said it brings up this question...Why would you want to have the front axle fully engaged running the driveline all the time? Who cares about having to get out and have to lock hubs? No big deal to me...this is puzzling.

All the wear and tear... and the extra drag it causes...Why? What is whirling around in that transfer case at all times on the end of that drive shaft?? Can you actually disengage those axles with a mod at the hubs? Does Warn make a kit? ...I'll be back after more fact finding. It does not make any sense to me..

IMHO, because the vast majority of folks buying/ordering SUV's and Pickup's
are more into the fashion statement than towing/work-functionality/performance

Clueless and only or mainly care about convenience and looks

Same types drive/drove:

• Dash buttons instead of floor 4x4 levers because those levers confused them
• Telling everyone that it is OK to drive 4x4 lock on pavement...or coming here asking why their is a funny noise from their drive train
• SAAB and Peugeot became more desirable than BMW during the 90's
• Automatics standard and manual trannies no longer offered
• ETC, etc, etc

Why my Suburban has an automatic...the OEM did not offer a manual
because the numbers were not there. Tried to special order one, as
the same year +8K & +9K GVWR pickups could be ordered with a manual

Do NOT get a front diff limited slip...been there done that with my
1970 FJ40. Slide right off the road when the year before no problem. Skiing and regular trip, but this time with LS front diff.

Nice Warn Winch nose down 3' deep in muddy/slush ditch...

Get the locker instead and make sure it functions as an open diff
till it locks up because all four tires takes a different radii during
a turn/curve and a LS will MAKE one of the tires skid...

[SoCalDesertRid1]

I put a Powertrax Lock Right auto locker in the rear of my F350 and left the front axle open, which has factory manual hubs. That combination, together with BFG AT's, works great.

The Lock Right is a ratcheting gear automatic locker and works the same as a Detroit Locker, but is less expensive, as it installs into the factory open differential carrier/case, instead of coming in it's own case.

That means the gear lash doesn't need to be re-set when installing a Lock Right, versus installing a Detroit Locker, or any other differential that comes in it's own case. This makes the Lock Right cheaper to install than most other differentials.

The Lock Right is very heavy duty. I've not had any problems with it at all in the 12+ years it's been in the truck. For 5 of those years, the truck was loaded to 11,000 lbs GVW, full time, with 7000 of that on the rear axle. If it was going to break, it would have broken by now.

As far as front manual hubs, versus drive flanges that keep the front axle engaged at all times, my International 4800 4wd truck came originally with front axle drive flanges and a manual part time transfer case. So the front axle and driveline were spinning at all times, whether the t-case was in 2wd or 4wd.

I had Warn/Fabco part time manual hubs installed to replace the drive flanges, for free, under recall from International.

The result has been slightly better fuel economy and slightly faster coasting speeds. There is alot of very heavy mass of metal in a 12,000 lb front axle that was rotating all the time, unnecessarily. Now that it's sitting still, the engine isn't working as hard to move the truck as it used to with the drive flanges. Also, alot of expensive parts aren't wearing out anymore for no reason, while in 2wd.

I've always had 4x4 trucks with manual part time locking hubs, as well as manual part time transfer cases. I would not want a 4wd truck that didn't have both of those basic 4wd features.

[CampingN_C_]

I agree with the guy that said leave the front and put a TRUE rear locker on the rear. Having had Chevys in the past with rear EATON's they really do make a difference. I've missed them already with my new truck.
I've got buddys with dedicated off road Jeeps that don't have front lockers, and don't feel the need.

[Me_Again]

KKELLER14K wrote:
So that being said it brings up this question...Why would you want to have the front axle fully engaged running the driveline all the time? Who cares about having to get out and have to lock hubs? No big deal to me...this is puzzling. All the wear and tear... and the extra drag it causes...Why? What is whirling around in that transfer case at all times on the end of that drive shaft?? Can you actually disengage those axles with a mod at the hubs? Does Warn make a kit? ...I'll be back after more fact finding. It does not make any sense to me..

For the manufacturer it is COST......

I could always feel the different on my 93 when the hubs where locked in, steering felt heavier and it just drove different.

Chris

[Rich1961]

KKELLER14K wrote:
So that being said it brings up this question...Why would you want to have the front axle fully engaged running the driveline all the time? Who cares about having to get out and have to lock hubs? No big deal to me...this is puzzling. All the wear and tear... and the extra drag it causes...Why? What is whirling around in that transfer case at all times on the end of that drive shaft?? Can you actually disengage those axles with a mod at the hubs? Does Warn make a kit? ...I'll be back after more fact finding. It does not make any sense to me..

Dynatrac and Spyntech make manual hub kits for the Dodge/Ram Trucks. If my memory serves me correct, I think they are around $1600 to $1800.

Rich

[KKELLER14K]

So that being said it brings up this question...Why would you want to have the front axle fully engaged running the driveline all the time? Who cares about having to get out and have to lock hubs? No big deal to me...this is puzzling. All the wear and tear... and the extra drag it causes...Why? What is whirling around in that transfer case at all times on the end of that drive shaft?? Can you actually disengage those axles with a mod at the hubs? Does Warn make a kit? ...I'll be back after more fact finding. It does not make any sense to me..